Yet another foot control fabrication

[cleat 7,005]

I am making a foot control kit for myself based on Matt's design as he appears to be out of the production of this.

None of these parts have been actually tried yet.

The 416H that I just brought home will be my test mule.

 

First on the agenda is the self centering bracket.

Plate has been cut to size then the two holes were drilled.

plate has been scribed.

V notch cut out.

Relief cut into bottom for clearance.

 

Edited Friday at 03:54 PM by cleat

[cleat 7,005]

Cam pivot lever has been cut out and drilled.

 

[cleat 7,005]

Foot pedal adapter plate made up.

Plate cut to size.

Plate scribed and center punched for holes.

Plate put into drill press then holes are drilled.

 

Holes de-burred.

 

Plate mounted to pedal.

 

[cleat 7,005]

Control rod made up.

Rods were roughly cut to the proper length then the first bend was made.

Second, third and fourth bends made.

 

Rod drilled for the retaining cotter pin and clip.

 

End of rod threaded 3/8" NF for the heim joint to screw on.

 

[peter lena 9,087]

@cleat    nice job on that  ! also with all the combined irregularities  , that heim joint  will  help  that work with ease . anytime  dealing with   linkage difficulties , regularly firm up  entire  function , and heim joint finish it  , typically makes it work  without effort , pete 

[cleat 7,005]

Reverse pedal made up from angle iron cut and bent.

 

[Wayne0 921]

Watching this!!

[cleat 7,005]

416H is ready to be used as a test for this foot control.

Shift plate screws and plate itself removed.

 

Right side cover removed.

 

Using a 5/32" pin punch to drive out the roll pin in the parking brake knob. (If this was an earlier model this step can be skipped).

 

Left side cover can now be removed.

 

[cleat 7,005]

Parking brake lever can now be removed mainly for a little more room to do the next steps.

 

[cleat 7,005]

Control rods can now be unbolted from the cam.

 

E clips can now be removed from the control block pin by removing the inside one first then sliding the cam over on the pin and removing the second clip.

 

Remove the bolt holding the control block pivot pin then pull the pin out and lift the control block out.

 

Control block is now ready to be drilled for the self centering bearing bolt.

Here are the measurements for the hole.

 

Control block is now ready to be assembled.

 

[cleat 7,005]

Self centering bracket bolted to the angle iron support.

Note the 1/4 x 1" bolt, three 1/4" flat washers and a 1/4" nyloc nut used in the assembly

Tighten the nut until the bracket and angle iron pivot smoothly but with no extra play.

 

Mark the hoodstand for drilling a 3/16" hole for the self centering spring to hook into.

This hole is 1-3/4" from the right side and 1/4" down.

 

Remove these two bolts that fasten the hoodstand to the frame and reuse them to bolt in the self centering assembly.

 

 

Edited Friday at 08:23 PM by cleat

[peter lena 9,087]

@cleat   https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-52004-Lightweight-Translucent/dp/B00175VGUA/ref=sr_1_3_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.iLC8Z6DqibaMBjuJ9vu0Yk-M-i  regularly addd this to any  questionable area , especially lever / linkage areas / cables , swing bushings work without effort , also fends off surface rust . pete 

[cleat 7,005]

Self centering bearing ready to be installed onto the control cam.

 

Bearing installed and nut tightened. Note the orientation of the washers.

Bearing should turn freely when installed.

 

Control cam assembly and pivot lever ready to install.

The lever should slide on to the pin easily so it can move without resistance once fully installed.

If it seems tight then the pin may need to be sanded smooth.

 

Control cam inserted into proper location and it's pin partly installed.

 

Control cam pivot lever installed onto pin long side up.

 

Pin fully inserted and bolted into place.

Left side E clip installed then control cam moved over tight to that clip.

Right side E clip installed.

Control rod bolted up which also holds the pivot rod in place.

 

Speed control cam (under seat) tension nut (the middle one with the large flat washer) backed off a turn or two until the cam can move freely side to side but not lift up and down.

 

You now should be able to move the control cam from front to back where the control rod is bolted on fairly easily.

Edited Friday at 08:41 PM by cleat

[ebinmaine 70,696]

Excellent work as usual @cleat

 

Top notch documentation.  

[cleat 7,005]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Excellent work as usual @cleat

 

Top notch documentation.  

Thanks Eric.

 

Pardon the dirty tractor, I am documenting it as found for now and it will come apart for a thorough cleaning and possible restoration later..

 

[rick 245]

Very nice, cleat!

Edited Saturday at 05:35 PM by rick
spelling

[953 nut 57,854]

@cleat, as usual you have done an outstanding job of documenting your project.           

I was wondering if an automotive shifter cable assembly could be used in place of the rod pictured below?

 

[cleat 7,005]

It might work so long as you can push and pull on it.

 

[953 nut 57,854]

33 minutes ago, cleat said:

It might work so long as you can push and pull on it.

 

That was my thought, ridged linkages for automotive automatic transmissions haven't been used in years          Why not on a Wheel Horse?

[cleat 7,005]

This machine is a very late model so it has the padded footrests which have no room for the foot pedal.

This is now unbolted and removed.

 

Since I have an earlier model footrest I will show the difference.

 

Control rod, cotter pin, washers, and hairpin clip ready for installation.

 

Cotter pin installed just barely bent for now as this will be coming back apart for paint.

 

Control rod heim joint and jamb nut ready to assemble.

 

Control rod being inserted into tractor.

 

Install a washer onto control rod then insert into cam pivot lever bottom hole.

 

Now install a washer and then the hairpin clip onto the control rod.

I use long needle nose pliers to install the clip.

 

[cleat 7,005]

Foot pedal ready to have reverse pedal and plate bolted on.

Standard nuts are used for now but nyloc nuts will be used on the final assembly after paint.

 

Reverse pedal and plate bolted on.

 

Pedal installed onto tractor then the retainer is installed and tightened to hold pedal onto the shaft.

Heim joint is bolted to the pedal plate and nut tightened.

Note the 3 washers used to keep the heim joint free moving.

 

Foot rest loosely sat into position then the foot pedal was pushed to full reverse.

At this point the reverse pedal should sit just up a bit (1/4" or so) from the foot rest to ensure you get full reverse speed.

If it is too high or it just hits the footrest then it's height can be adjusted by screwing the heim joint in or out on the rod as required.

Fully tighten the heim joint to foot pedal plate each time to ensure an accurate measurement.

 

Foot pedal in neutral position.

 

Foot pedal in full forward position.

 

Auto center spring.

 

Spring hooked into auto center lever.

 

Spring now gets hooked into the hoodstand plate where the hole was drilled earlier.

 

Footrest bolted down.

 

Control shaft heim joint jamb nut tightened.

 

 

 

[cleat 7,005]

Parking brake lever installed.

 

Right side cover and shift covers installed.

 

Left side cover and parking brake knob installed.

 

The foot pedal adapter plate needs to be trimmed just a bit.

It does not make contact but it is really close.

 

[cleat 7,005]

Rear end of tractor jacked up.

 

Now the engine can be started and ran for a few minutes then increase to full throttle.

Note: the neutral safety switch will need to be satisfied for the engine to start. I just made sure the old column shifter was in the neutral position.

Rear wheels should not be turning.

Push foot pedal forward then release pedal.

Wheels should stop.

Push foot pedal reverse pedal down then release.

Again, wheels should stop as soon as pedal is released.

If wheels do not stop rotating then adjust eccentric cam at Hydro as per the attached service manual.

You will need a 1" wrench for the eccentric and a 1/2" socket or wrench for the eccentric bolt.

 

Wheel horse 520H service manual.pdf

 

When a satisfactory neutral has been obtained then remove the jack.

 

 

 

[cleat 7,005]

When this tractor gets it's overhaul I will be removing the column shift lever and the safety neutral switch

 

I feel safe doing this because the tractor now reverts to neutral unless you are pushing on the foot pedal.

 

This foot control shows installation with a column shift tractor.If you have a motion control that is between your legs then you will be unbolting and removing the motion control lever from the motion cam.

The neutral safety switch is mounted on the shift plate and will need to either have the switch taped down or the wires jumpered in order for the tractor to start (purple and light blue in the case of a 520).

 

floor shift.pdf

 

Important....do not run the tractor with the neutral safety switch bypassed until you are absolutely sure the tractor returns to neutral with the foot pedal released.

 

Another option I have been toying with is wiring the parking brake switch into the start circuit so tractor will only start with brake locked on.

Edited yesterday at 03:03 PM by cleat

[SylvanLakeWH 27,498]

3 minutes ago, cleat said:

 

I feel safe doing this because the tractor now reverts to neutral unless you are pushing on the foot pedal.

Curious... not a hydro guy, but I assume need for adjustment periodically or if it comes out if adjustment, should a safety switch not be maintained?