Mounting for Grader Blade

[ri702bill 8,936]

All

I see there two very different styles of mounting methods for WH under the tractor grading blades - the mid mount (like a mower deck) and the pusher style (that uses the snow plow mount on the Unidrive). Is there a distinct advantage for one over the other??

Both my 854 and C81 are setup with plow brackets... Ideally, I would want one that works well with both tractors....

Bill

[pfrederi 18,314]

I had a mid mount sold it for a axle mount as it was bigger.  Actually think I prefer the mid mount for what I use the thing for..smoothing out top soil I have spread or crushed stone..  If you think about it full sized road graders drag their blade they do not push it...

[Handy Don 13,328]

[Pullstart 64,432]

In snow plows and trucks, I can always get a smoother finish dragging a back blade, instead of pushing a front blade.  The mounting position is not between the wheels, but the geometry is very similar.  I love my drag style mid mounts for that reason!

[Handy Don 13,328]

Another important element in performance is the “verticality” of the blade’s lower edge. Same logic as with dozer blades--scraping over vs. more aggressive digging in. 

None of the WH blades have an easy way of adjusting this angle away from their reasonable “mid-point" though some beveled shims at the blade-to-frame mounting could do the trick!

[Ed Kennell 40,384]

I've never used a WH grader blade, but the few cells left in my cranium cavity keep telling me a pulled blade would work smoother and dig in less than a pushed blade. 

[953 nut 57,739]

I have had both the pull and push grader blades. As others have said the push blade that attaches to the rear axle bracket tends to dig in more, especially when being used at an angle. I sold the push blade but kept the pull blade.          

[kpinnc 13,645]

I don't think it's as simple as being pushed or pulled. As @Handy Don said, the "bite" angle is also a contributor. Too little and the blade will skate, too much and it will dig in. This is also affected by what material is being graded as well. 

 

On commercial graders, this angle is only one of the things that is adjustable. Neither version of the Wheel Horse graders could be adjusted in this manner. 

 

My grader is homemade so I have nothing to reference. But even though it mounts in the rear, it does not dig in. This does not change when tilting left or right, and mine has 5 positions instead of 3. For me at least, setting the proper depth of cut matters more than anything else. For anyone using a manual lift without some ability to change that depth is what affects performance more. 

Edited Monday at 07:09 PM by kpinnc

[ri702bill 8,936]

All good stuff here.... Will either style work on a round hood or C series??

I'm athinkin that a mid mount just might be a decent choice on the 502 with a regular 4 speed ; but I do prefer having the low renge on the more comfortable C81....

[Pullstart 64,432]

Just now, ri702bill said:

All good stuff here.... Will either style work on a round hood or C series??

I'm athinkin that a mid mount just might be a decent choice on the 502 with a regular 4 speed ; but I do prefer having the low renge on the more comfortable C81....

As long as you have the newer style attach a matic mounts it’ll work 

[ri702bill 8,936]

I think I have one of the commom gripes addressed - some folks have said the blade is too light and you have to "ride"  the top edge with your feet to hold it down in use.

This little FrankenMutt will have a HY-2 hydraulic lift setup....

Edited Monday at 10:29 PM by ri702bill

[953 nut 57,739]

I have used mine on the 418-c with a solid link and having the hydraulic down-force worked well for leveling  soil for grass seeding.

[pfrederi 18,314]

1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

I think I have one of the commom gripes addressed - some folks have said the blade is too light and you have to "ride"  the top edge with your feet to hold it down in use.

This little FrankenMutt will have a HY-2 hydraulic lift setup....

  I tried using a mid mount blade on a hydro and gave up .  Wound up lifting the rear end of the tractor off the ground.  much easier to apply some down pressure on the lift arm it is easier to control than the hydro lift.

[Lee1977 7,024]

With an 8 speed you need the Dial-A Hite with both push and pull type.. You could use the pull type without it, but I don't think you will get much done without it on the push type.

[c-series don 9,420]

Having operated motor graders as my job for years, the pitch of the moldboard (blade) will determine the bite and material rolling capabilities. I have an axle mount 50” blade that pitches slightly back and works pretty well for what it is. I don’t own the mid mount pull type but from the ones I’ve seen it appears the bottom edge is more vertical and less likely to dig in. Initially I bought the blade because it was one of the attachments that I didn’t have, however once I used it I was impressed with how well it actually worked. Mine is on a Work Horse GT-1848 with hydraulic lift and a solid lift link. 

[oliver2-44 10,323]

I have a rear mount grader blade with solid lift link and love it. 
With loaded tires, 60lb of weight on each tire, chains and me 
With the hydro lift I can listen to the engine get on the governor and easily tweak the blade height up and down It does take a little operator finess. I’ve also used it on my sons 312-8 with foot on blade. I prefer the hydro over this. Also with the hydro down pressure no issue of it being too light. 
 

It really depends what you want to do with it. 

Edited yesterday at 03:07 AM by oliver2-44

[kpinnc 13,645]

I failed to mention that my homemade grader blade is very heavy. The blade itself probably weighs 75lb. And it's being used with hydraulic lift. For me, all I have to do is set the depth. It weighs enough not to need any down pressure. 

 

[ri702bill 8,936]

I don't need one that big.....

 

[squonk 42,444]

WH blades are too light. I ditched my grader and modded an Allis Chalmers GT mid grader. All iron like Kpinnic's blade

[clueless 3,106]

2 hours ago, squonk said:

WH blades are too light. I ditched my grader and modded an Allis Chalmers GT mid grader. All iron like Kpinnic's blade

Mike, I'd like a bit of instructions on attaching it  mid and rear.

[squonk 42,444]

3 hours ago, clueless said:

Mike, I'd like a bit of instructions on attaching it  mid and rear.

I thought Bruce had that blade?

[Handy Don 13,328]

7 hours ago, squonk said:

WH blades are too light. I ditched my grader and modded an Allis Chalmers GT mid grader. All iron like Kpinnic's blade

I, too, am modding an Allis/Simplicity blade for mid-mount use on an 854. The frame and blade together are quite heavy (gotta get out the scale & test it!). I’ve also fabricated some special shims to adjust the blade pitch to different angles (these will need wrenching to change, so not quick).

With the extra weight, I grew concerned about the strength of the mid-hitch, especially when the blade is angled so the pressure would try to twist the frame. To counteract this, I’ve added an extension to the blade frame that creates a bridge all the way from the mid-hitch to the F-plate. This adds a lot of lateral strength (and more lbs to the frame weight)!

So far, I’m using a solid lift link, but that may change. 

Also because of the extra weight, I’m wondering if I should look at reinforcing the rock shaft pivot points. 

Edited 22 hours ago by Handy Don

[clueless 3,106]

4 hours ago, squonk said:

I thought Bruce had that blade?

I have it now and plan to put it back where it belongs, on the 704.

[squonk 42,444]

4 minutes ago, clueless said:

I have it now and plan to put it back where it belongs, on the 704.

Send me some close ups of everything you have for it. It's been a while. The blade I have now is a bit different