"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #1 Posted April 11 (edited) All refurbished, modified and meticulously calibrated! Locktite for sure! Ducar 212 “desired for better internals” over Predator. All Honda clones anyway Engine is “uncorked” so main jet mod will be used for air compensation (Stage -1 kit) should produce 9-11hp at 3600 rpm additional 9hp torque Run about 4400 max! Stage-1 kit racing intake & pulse pump off valve cover , not the breather vent! Straight exhaust opened up, part of the “uncorked”, will add a muffler. Such thing as too much air & noise! Throttle mod with return spring assist Cantilever assist over single speed coaster 1/4” steel laser cut mount to be Tig welded Edited April 11 by "Manic-Mechanic" 2 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,756 #2 Posted April 11 (edited) Looks a bit dangerous. I love it !!!! If you find your self needing more than the coaster / cantilever brake system, they do make some disc brake set ups for bicycles. Example: https://www.amazon.com/RUJOI-Aluminum-Mechanic-Tool-Free-Adjuster/dp/B07TW7H3GX/ref=asc_df_B07TW7H3GX?mcid=38c0f7144ae93d1b9f61178ce7ee0888&hvocijid=15612083517189755030-B07TW7H3GX-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15612083517189755030&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-2281435178138&th=1 Edited April 11 by Achto 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,340 #3 Posted April 11 (edited) Very elegant. I suspect you may want to re-lace the wheel's spokes on the rear from 2-cross to 3-cross to handle the substantially increased engine torque and maybe increase the spoke gauge at the same time. Front might benefit too. Pretzeling a wheel at speed is a real bummer. Edited April 11 by Handy Don 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,662 #4 Posted April 11 Absolutely crackers. It's awesome! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,484 #5 Posted April 11 Nice How about an overall shot so we can see the whole thing? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,494 #6 Posted April 11 Love it!!! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #8 Posted April 12 23 hours ago, Achto said: Looks a bit dangerous. I love it !!!! If you find your self needing more than the coaster / cantilever brake system, they do make some disc brake set ups for bicycles. Example: https://www.amazon.com/RUJOI-Aluminum-Mechanic-Tool-Free-Adjuster/dp/B07TW7H3GX/ref=asc_df_B07TW7H3GX?mcid=38c0f7144ae93d1b9f61178ce7ee0888&hvocijid=15612083517189755030-B07TW7H3GX-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15612083517189755030&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-2281435178138&th=1 The disc brake option on the rear wouldn’t align, even with welding a custom bracket. I did find a sprocket/disc brake set up but not enough room 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #9 Posted April 12 19 hours ago, Handy Don said: Very elegant. I suspect you may want to re-lace the wheel's spokes on the rear from 2-cross to 3-cross to handle the substantially increased engine torque and maybe increase the spoke gauge at the same time. Front might benefit too. Pretzeling a wheel at speed is a real bummer. The front was totally released to match the drum brake. The rear I went through replaced any spikes that were suspect. No, pretzeling would not be a very pleasant experience! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #10 Posted April 12 (edited) 17 hours ago, wallfish said: Nice How about an overall shot so we can see the whole thing? The tank will be turned around, needs modified to do so, too much exposed fuel line. Edited April 12 by "Manic-Mechanic" 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #11 Posted April 12 Yes, it’s a controversial build, dangerous as Hell! I was told it couldn’t be done, parts venders wouldn’t provide certain components! I will not open this bike up with 10T-52T ratio! Sure, it’ll go but stop, even with 3 brakes a bit precarious. The larger rear sprocket was for torque, not intended for speed. I have one more component, oil catch can off the vent breather in the valve cover. That would also need another small filter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,484 #12 Posted April 12 13 minutes ago, "Manic-Mechanic" said: The tank will be turned around, needs modified to do so, too much exposed fuel line. Nice, has that old school look to it. Yeah, the fuel line doesn't look very good. Maybe a flexible copper tube painted black or black fuel line. The yellow doesn't match and stands out. The torque converter will also affect that drive ratio and make it go much faster as speed increases as the variable pulleys change. Not sure why anyone would say it couldn't be done. And just because it has the power and potential to go 120 mph doesn't mean you need to do it (Although the temptation is strong) 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #13 Posted April 12 1 minute ago, wallfish said: Nice, has that old school look to it. Yeah, the fuel line doesn't look very good. Maybe a flexible copper tube painted black or black fuel line. The yellow doesn't match and stands out. The torque converter will also affect that drive ratio and make it go much faster as speed increases as the variable pulleys change. Not sure why anyone would say it couldn't be done. And just because it has the power and potential to go 120 mph doesn't mean you need to do it (Although the temptation is strong) Yeah, the Yellow is an eyesore, change it from the pump to the tank, (well reverse the tank first.) Constantly in the planning stage. This was initially sold as a kit known as “Death Row”, it’s no longer available so I found the CVT and went for it 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,375 #14 Posted April 12 2 hours ago, wallfish said: Nice, has that old school look to it. Yeah, the fuel line doesn't look very good. Maybe a flexible copper tube painted black or black fuel line. The yellow doesn't match and stands out. The torque converter will also affect that drive ratio and make it go much faster as speed increases as the variable pulleys change. Not sure why anyone would say it couldn't be done. And just because it has the power and potential to go 120 mph doesn't mean you need to do it (Although the temptation is strong) I'll bet that there is a class for that vehicle at the Bonniville speed week evevnt........ 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #15 Posted April 12 24 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: I'll bet that there is a class for that vehicle at the Bonniville speed week evevnt........ That’s interesting enough, see if it’ll stay together first! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,340 #16 Posted April 12 5 hours ago, "Manic-Mechanic" said: The front was totally released to match the drum brake. The rear I went through replaced any spikes that were suspect. No, pretzeling would not be a very pleasant experience! I can’t tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like standard 2-cross lacing to me. If you are not sure, take it to a local bike shop. It does look like 36-hole in the rear vs. (I think) 32 in the front--which is good. Also, it’s nearly impossible to detect a weak spoke or uneven spoke tension without instrumentation, despite what old-time wheel builders will tell you. I’d highly recommend 12 ga. straight gauge spokes as you commonly find on mopeds, You are not worried about centrifugal force or speed, per se. It is any significant bump at speed (especially at any angle from dead straight ahead) and the high torque of that beast engine with the low starting gear. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #17 Posted April 13 5 hours ago, Handy Don said: I can’t tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like standard 2-cross lacing to me. If you are not sure, take it to a local bike shop. It does look like 36-hole in the rear vs. (I think) 32 in the front--which is good. Also, it’s nearly impossible to detect a weak spoke or uneven spoke tension without instrumentation, despite what old-time wheel builders will tell you. I’d highly recommend 12 ga. straight gauge spokes as you commonly find on mopeds, You are not worried about centrifugal force or speed, per se. It is any significant bump at speed (especially at any angle from dead straight ahead) and the high torque of that beast engine with the low starting gear. Yes, I went back and forth with the bike mechanic and the front is 36 as well. I will be test riding this next week, been tuning the carb and tightening everything. The 12 ga. should be used on the rear, regardless of the old Amish mechanics protests! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,484 #18 Posted April 13 Don't forget the video of the maiden voyage or it didn't happen! And maybe a pic of the seat afterwards. I'm expecting a hole to be bitten into it or you didn't give it quite enough throttle! LOL 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 50,688 #19 Posted April 13 Always loved those tire powered gennys since a kid. You get that thing wheelin n dealin that one will put out 240... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #20 Posted April 13 (edited) 9 hours ago, wallfish said: Don't forget the video of the maiden voyage or it didn't happen! And maybe a pic of the seat afterwards. I'm expecting a hole to be bitten into it or you didn't give it quite enough throttle! LOL I contemplated last night as I tuned the carb! Held front brake and touched the throttle, Woha-Nellie, tire just spun under me! Have to be gentle start s-l-o-w! Edited April 13 by "Manic-Mechanic" 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,662 #21 Posted April 13 21 hours ago, "Manic-Mechanic" said: Yellow is an eyesore If that's "Tygon" or equivalent fuel line toss it in the hopper. 🗑 🚮 I was told to use that years ago because it was "the best"... Hogwash. Very short lifespan. I do like the idea of a metal fuel line going most of the distance. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,375 #22 Posted April 13 that would get you one step closer to being Bonniville legal. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #23 Posted April 13 Muffled Exhaust Open Exhaust Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #24 Posted April 13 (edited) 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: If that's "Tygon" or equivalent fuel line toss it in the hopper. 🗑 🚮 I was told to use that years ago because it was "the best"... Hogwash. Very short lifespan. I do like the idea of a metal fuel line going most of the distance. Creating a way to transition off the plastic pump nipple then clamping to the frame. Yeah, the “pro’s” at DynoCams recommended the yellow “premium” fuel line, had two types. i ordered good old USA 1/4” Black Rubber. The oil catch can is in route so change it then Edited April 13 by "Manic-Mechanic" 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"Manic-Mechanic" 1,228 #25 Posted April 13 I just “tested” going about a short circle around the yard and back, no way I’m opening this motorbike anytime soon! Gonna take some practice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
