rustyedge1 176 #1 Posted April 7 Garden time again and I’m looking at this tiller at auction, states in working condition. Can’t see it in person until 4-15. If anyone out there is familiar with them would appreciate your opinion. Also any ideas what one should expect to pay ? Looks all original in photos to me anyway. May have to have this one, been wanting one for some time. Depends on how it goes.. Input appreciated. Thanks 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skwerl58 746 #2 Posted April 7 They are a great tiller for most garden plots. They can be hard to handle if in rocky or root areas because they dig so good they can abruptly go forward if it grabs a root or large rock. Then just adjust the depth better. I have one and it is from the 78 or so yom. It has a replacement Chinese carb and runs great. They are beast when it comes to doing what they are designed to do. They are rather easy to maintain and this one has a furrower that is a good attachment. Parts are readily available for them. I changed the oil in mine this year and you check the tranny/drive grease by taking the handles off with the T bolt and fill in the hole. As far as price goes if you crank it and it operates as it should with little or no engine smoke I would say $250-$350 is fair for this one as good as it looks. Area also drives the price and it may go for quite a bit more than my price estimate. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,354 #3 Posted April 7 I received a free Troy Bilt Pony tiller 2 years ago. engine was shot and transmission needed bearings and seals. I had a Harbor Freight engine on the shelf, and rebuilt the gearbox with new bearings and seals. Spent too much on bearings and seals even though I matched them up at a bearing supply. It works good, but no reverse since the HF engine doesn't have the extra drive pulley off the cam shaft like the Briggs did. Also one side of the tine shaft had some seal wear and seeps gear oil. I had tried to shim the seal out, but I guess shaft too worn. I just know I have to check and add gear oil before I use it. So inspect the tine shaft seals and drive wheel shaft seals before you buy it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,495 #4 Posted April 7 I have the exact same tiller, except mine has a Kohler 7 hp, great heavy duty tiller, have had mine since early 80's. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,699 #5 Posted April 7 1 hour ago, Skwerl58 said: $250-$350 is fair for this one as good as it looks. Area also drives the price and it may go for quite a bit more than my price estimate. $400 - $450 up here. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,923 #6 Posted April 7 Works good in decent ground but I prefer the WH tiller on a tractor. Much easier on the operator. I called mine "killer tiller". Never put the running tines on the ground with the wheels in neutral. Like Jim says, tine seals are a problem. My friend has one and ended up using corn head grease. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,324 #7 Posted April 7 Tines look fairly good from what I can see. Tecumseh engine replacement tank. Ag Tires are a plus Very similar to mine my father bought back in the early 70s. Picked it up at the factory in Troy NY Still works never a seal issue...Rugged mac hies can be hard to control on rocky soil but once it is mostly de-rocked you walk along one side control it with one hand. if you have really rocky soil you can get pic tines for her. $400 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustyedge1 176 #8 Posted April 8 Thanks for all the input everybody. These are tine photos. Looks like some oil leaks.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,354 #9 Posted April 8 If you look at it, try to wiggle or rock those times to get a feel if the bearing have slop. during reassembly of my Pony tiller, there are shims that are used to set the proper bearing clearance. Essentially no wiggle when newly shimmed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 629 #11 Posted April 8 9 hours ago, ebinmaine said: $400 - $450 up here. Nearly twice that here ... asking price. Im not paying that. Same rules. Buy a HORSE. anything else is substandard. In my opinion Good luck! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustyedge1 176 #12 Posted April 8 (edited) I don’t intend to pay too high a price if in good running condition and tines are fairly tight. Will see how auction goes.. Edited 14 hours ago by rustyedge1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 486 #13 Posted April 8 I've got a '74 in my driveway that my stepson is taking to the scrapyard. In PA, however. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustyedge1 176 #14 Posted April 10 On 4/8/2025 at 11:46 AM, rustyedge1 said: I don’t intend to pay too high a price if in good running condition and times are fairly tight. Will see how auction goes.. Contacted auction reps and they have no idea when last ran.. The previous owner died at 100 years old and lived at home retired GM employee of 36 years and WWII vet and tank buster division..The sticker on the breather nay be the only info available.. May take some starting fluid new plug and fuel see what happens.. Any idea as to what spark plug to get ? Other mower and snow blower also at auction.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustyedge1 176 #15 Posted Sunday at 02:24 PM (edited) Got it started and bought reasonable for age 1982 according to numbers. HH60 hadn’t ran since 2015.. Got a hotter spark plug than calls for which not a good sign CJ14 calls for J8C. Starts, runs under load, little smoke, not too bad. Leaks oil around valve cover plate, gaskets gone, replacing next week. The spark plug issue has me concerned. Comments welcome . Edited Sunday at 05:06 PM by rustyedge1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 486 #16 Posted Sunday at 11:46 PM (edited) I just picked up this '86 for $75. The engine supposedly died when gas came out of the exhaust. I drained the crankcase and it was full of gas. Carb is "petrified.". I'll know more in the next couple of days. EDIT: $13 carb, less than a qt of 30W oil, and a little fuel line fixed her right up. Edited 22 hours ago by HyperPete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 486 #17 Posted Monday at 12:15 AM I have many manuals. Start with this. Private message me if you would like others. https://drive.google.com/file/d/106b0zU_uq8qi7vRVPs13OuuUUkKvkE_M/view?usp=drivesdk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 486 #18 Posted Monday at 03:51 AM On 4/8/2025 at 3:56 AM, Treepep said: Nearly twice that here ... asking price. Im not paying that. Same rules. Buy a HORSE. anything else is substandard. In my opinion Good luck! It is a Horse. Troy Bilt Horse. 👍 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,517 #19 Posted Tuesday at 01:23 AM On 4/20/2025 at 8:15 PM, HyperPete said: I have many manuals. Start with this. Private message me if you would like others. https://drive.google.com/file/d/106b0zU_uq8qi7vRVPs13OuuUUkKvkE_M/view?usp=drivesdk Now THAT's a manual! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustyedge1 176 #20 Posted Tuesday at 02:07 PM On 4/7/2025 at 9:40 PM, oliver2-44 said: If you look at it, try to wiggle or rock those times to get a feel if the bearing have slop. during reassembly of my Pony tiller, there are shims that are used to set the proper bearing clearance. Essentially no wiggle when newly shimmed. On 4/7/2025 at 9:40 PM, oliver2-44 said: If you look at it, try to wiggle or rock those times to get a feel if the bearing have slop. Looks like one tine is pretty sloppy, any advice ? All others are solid. Input welcome. IMG_6967.mov Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,354 #21 Posted Tuesday at 06:26 PM From watching the video I suggest you check the bolt that goes through the shaft and bolt that outer set of tines on. I suspect the bolt is worn or the hole through the tines or shaft is worn. I 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustyedge1 176 #22 Posted Tuesday at 09:53 PM It’s like the tine FullSizeRender.MOV is too loose on the shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,485 #23 Posted yesterday at 12:14 AM 10 hours ago, rustyedge1 said: Looks like one tine is pretty sloppy, any advice ? You're going to need to remove it and take a look in there for what's worn or loose. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites