SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #26 Posted April 5 3 minutes ago, 953 nut said: The are made in the USA but die-cast pulleys wouldn't be suitable for most drive train applications. Since this will just be a play toy you will probably be OK. Curious - What’s the issue? Durability? You are correct this is not for "work", but I also don't want to create an issue... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 50,615 #27 Posted April 5 9 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: What’s the issue? Just made of softer "pot" metal that isn't very strong. Particularly in the bore/set screw area. Keep the set screws tight and you won't have any problems in a putt around. 3 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #28 Posted April 6 Progress today: Initial fitment if motor... looks like it'll work... removed manual clutch and pulley from yard art. Removed auto shifter stuff... initially looks like it'll work... gonna need tie rods... @ebinmaine @peter lena others...? how about a pic of your threaded tie rod dohickies... might go that route... I forget what you use? 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,545 #29 Posted April 6 22 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: gonna need tie rods... @ebinmaine Heim joints. Here two pics of the ones we've built. I buy 7/16" double male RH thread. I go up a size from OE because the holes are almost always oval. Drilling to 7/16 fixes that. Using the next size up adds exponential strength. Huge difference. Or... I have a set off BBT's Military Tribute Tractor. They are worn. Not dead. One original. One adjustable replacement. We wont use them on a worker here. Pay the freight and these are yours. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,074 #30 Posted April 7 @SylvanLakeWH good gold mine , correction reference , there are 6 , simple mods right here , that make a world of difference , very easy to tweak a sloppy spot , also regular lighter duty heim joints are good for levers , heavier type / style are better for front end axel change out , adapted as i went , first photo , washer fill for sloppy PTO LEVER , solid smooth , heim joint on pto lever end , just a die nut rethread , over original threading , lower spring added , to vibrating swing arm area , stops sloppy noise , note pto lever snug fit to, side of consol . those lubricated washers did that , note battery tender plug in / in plane site ? also note battery ground cable to corner of engine frame ? very rarely leave any sloppy , opportunistic spot , uncorrected , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,682 #31 Posted April 7 Didn't waist any time diggin' into this diamond in the ruff, like where it's going so far. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 50,615 #32 Posted April 8 14 hours ago, Achto said: like where it's going down the toilet so far. There... fixed that ... 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #33 Posted April 8 (edited) 19 minutes ago, WHX?? said: There... fixed that ... Just You wait... it's gonna be BEAUTIFUL... The BEST EVER... probably, maybe, sorta... Gonna need more curds, 10-15 more belt guards, maybe a couple executive orders... Edited April 8 by SylvanLakeWH 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #34 Posted April 9 Advice please: The yard art clutch doo-hickee works, but is about 1/2" - 1" short to accommodate the attachment to the shaft via the existing holes... yes, I could drill new holes in shaft and the lever, but only about 1/2" of the shaft will be in the lever collar... My thought Is cut the shaft in the middle and use a shaft coupler to add about 1" to its length, exposing more of the shaft, and allowing complete adjustment without drilling more holes... coupler will be in between the frame / side tins. Yellow highlight shows shaft needing 1/2" to 1" more. Red highlight shows lever that will attach to shaft (pic is of the lever still on yard art)... No welder... shaft coupler concept shown... Will it work? Appreciate constructive feedback and appropriate ... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,545 #35 Posted April 9 6 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said: No welder... shaft coupler concept shown... Will it work? Appreciate constructive feedback and appropriate How about constructing the mechanism for proof of concept then disassemble and add JB Weld? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #36 Posted April 9 6 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: How about constructing the mechanism for proof of concept then disassemble and add JB Weld? Thank you for the reply! I thought about that, but can JB handle the stress on the lever??? There would be only about 1/2" of the rod into about 1/2" of the lever... it would get not only the clutch pedal movement but the constant vibration and jerking from the clutch pulley... I like the idea but not sure it would hold... The other reason I like the coupler is I can adjust the angle of the lever and the pulley to get the belt working correctly. This is a total fabrication of an 8 speed onto an auto, using a 1960 Suburban clutch lever / pulley... so, on the fly proof of concept adjustments are gonna be the norm. Please - Keep them ideas coming!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,330 #37 Posted April 10 I think what @ebinmaine is saying, is use the coupler and add JB weld in it for insurance. Scary thinking like EB 1 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,330 #38 Posted April 10 17 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Advice please: What were you thinking showing us a picture of a shifter boot that looks like that 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,682 #39 Posted April 10 17 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said: Appreciate constructive feedback and appropriate How about throwing out a request for clutch / brake shaft & ends for a square hood. Should turn this into a bolt on application. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #40 Posted April 10 43 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said: I think what @ebinmaine is saying, is use the coupler and add JB weld in it for insurance. Makes sense! 43 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said: Scary thinking like EB 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #41 Posted April 10 42 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said: What were you thinking showing us a picture of a shifter boot that looks like that I rarely get accused of thinking, but since you did, I confess I wasn't thinking... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #42 Posted April 10 24 minutes ago, Achto said: How about throwing out a request for clutch / brake shaft & ends for a square hood. Should turn this into a bolt on application. That is an excellent idea!!! I was going for using what I had on hand, but maybe that makes more sense... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,750 #43 Posted April 10 18 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said: My thought Is cut the shaft in the middle and use a shaft coupler to add about 1" to its length, exposing more of the shaft, and allowing complete adjustment without drilling more holes... coupler will be in between the frame / side tins. It is likely that your shaft coupler idea will work. Once everything is lined up properly I would suggest drilling shallow holes that go into the shaft to allow the set screws to have a good seat. 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 13,659 #44 Posted April 10 5 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said: I rarely get accused of thinking I'm accused of thinking all the time. It's just that apparently what I'm thinking is wrong! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,750 #45 Posted Friday at 01:19 PM if you think you know what I'm thinking, think again, I think? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #46 Posted Friday at 04:55 PM Good progress today. Clutch proof of concept works. I think. Engine fitment appears good. Wrong belt size by about 6" but that's easy... Changed up the pulleys a bit based on comments about grip... 3.5 front 4.5 rear... thoughts? IMG_3312.mov 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,750 #47 Posted Friday at 07:07 PM Looks like it should work fine. The clutch arm might want to be just a bit further counterclockwise. Here are pictures of my clutch arm for comparison. First released Second depressed 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #48 Posted Friday at 09:22 PM Thx for the comment... I am sure it will take some adjustment!!! Thats what sold me on the collar coupler approach - easy to twist and adjust... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #49 Posted Friday at 09:24 PM Engine fitted and waiting for a remotely accurate belt length... I'm pretty happy so far, but power to the wheels and brakes are next... IMG_3315.mov 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 27,388 #50 Posted Sunday at 07:34 PM Brought in some outside contractors to assist in the project... Belt fitment progressing... Then, as typical for big bucks consultants, they wanted to take a break and ride the A-60 ... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
