Cjwv1975 67 #1 Posted March 29 Is the 1054 axle seals the same as all the other seals. I do have a set for my c160 but the 1054 needs them more. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,707 #3 Posted March 29 The bearings and seals for the 953/1054 are the same as any other manual transmission with 1 1/8" axles. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cjwv1975 67 #5 Posted March 30 Thanks guys. Now to figure out how to get these hubs off lol. Probably look for an old hub and make a puller that is one here. One side looks like it has anti seize on it. The other looks rusted lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,494 #6 Posted March 30 54 minutes ago, Cjwv1975 said: Thanks guys. Now to figure out how to get these hubs off lol. Probably look for an old hub and make a puller that is one here. One side looks like it has anti seize on it. The other looks rusted lol Patience is the absolute key there. @953 nut and @pfrederi have both posted pics of great pullers in the past. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,707 #7 Posted March 30 There is no shortage of HUB PULLER threads on Red Square. Lots of advice and some of it was even good advice. Here is a thread that was going around being built upon for the past couple of years. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,074 #8 Posted March 30 @Cjwv1975 just how I see it , wheel hub set bolts , remove them days out / or more , KROIL fill the threaded area , keep it vertical , so it feeds the fitted point , a few solid hammer hits , will probably enhance KROIL creep , also like a PACKING PULLER , for side seal removal , tiny hole , screw in pull out seal , that hub puller should be BEHIND THE FLANGE , NOT SCREWED INTO IT , thats the weak spot . also like a hi mileage ATF fluid for initial trans drive around / flushing effect , get some miles on that , also free up all related linkages , so they actually move without effort , like a CLIMBING GEAR OIL , read specs , new shift boot , held in place with a tye wrap, under side greased ? so it slides over irregularities on top of trans , moves without effort , done a number of these , basic stuff , make the rust run out , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,707 #9 Posted March 30 2 hours ago, peter lena said: a few solid hammer hits DO NOT HIT THE FLANGE of your hob with the hammer. Striking the hub over the axle could be helpful. Another trick is to attempt to drive the hub further onto the axle to break up the rust's grip. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,074 #10 Posted March 30 @953 nut cast flanges are loaded with lots of original flaws , agree with the hub drive inward to get things started , have eliminated those on my rigs , have found pulleys at a local , guys place that repairs / sells any brand of lawn tractor , he had barrels full of pulleys , flanges , a bearing swap out / regrease , let me eliminate a chronic issue . pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
