Checklist when lookin to buy 1966 856

[953 nut 57,640]

5 hours ago, FLtractor said:

Oh ok. Would a modern tractor mid or high back fit? Or can be attached to the pan 

Any newer seat will be adaptable, may have to drill a couple of holes but it can be done.  Click on the link below and you will find all of the manuals for the 856. They are free downloads.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=856 OM&type=downloads_file&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=and

[rmaynard 15,892]

The transmission drain plug is on the bottom just to the left of the hitch. Best to lift the front end of the tractor at least 12 inches to help get the transmission oil over the hump in the bottom. The engine should have a drain plug on the back of the pan or on the side. Some have an elbow with a pipe attached to help in ease of draining. Transmission oil is filled through the shifter hole, however you can add it through the angled plug on the left side. It holds 1-1/2 quarts, so you may have to tip the tractor to the right to get all the oil in. Engine oil is filled through the dipstick hole on the top of the crankcase.

 

 

Edited March 30 by rmaynard
Spelling

[adsm08 2,586]

Oil drains from the left side of the tractor. There is a pipe with a plug just in front of the battery. I can see it in the one picture you posted, but can't save the picture to draw on it.

 

Shifter should be like this:

 

https://www.redoyourhorse.com/wheel-horse-brushed-aluminum-shift-pattern-decals/

 

 

To check charging hook a volt meter to the battery and start the engine. Ideally it should charge around 13.5, may take a minute to settle. If it charges at 13 or higher I'd be happy, although that can indicate the S/G unit is worn.

[rmaynard 15,892]

25 minutes ago, adsm08 said:

Oil drains from the left side of the tractor. There is a pipe with a plug just in front of the battery. I can see it in the one picture you posted, but can't save the picture to draw on it.

 

Here it is:

 

[Retired Wrencher 5,625]

@FLtractor First thing if you get it. I clean one pice at a time. It is the hard way but this pays you back in the end.I was never a power wash guy. Look at all the parts for wear and take pictures as you go. This will help for assembly. Enjoy the project and the ride when done.

[FLtractor 11]

21 hours ago, adsm08 said:

Oil drains from the left side of the tractor. There is a pipe with a plug just in front of the battery. I can see it in the one picture you posted, but can't save the picture to draw on it.

 

Shifter should be like this:

 

https://www.redoyourhorse.com/wheel-horse-brushed-aluminum-shift-pattern-decals/

 

 

To check charging hook a volt meter to the battery and start the engine. Ideally it should charge around 13.5, may take a minute to settle. If it charges at 13 or higher I'd be happy, although that can indicate the S/G unit is worn.

So how do you tell from the voltmeter reading if it is indeed a worn  starter generator? Vs a good non worn unit.. Given you said if it charges at 13 or higher. Happy yet possibly worn.. so how do you tell if it’s unit altogether for charging if 13 and higher and what else to look for?

[adsm08 2,586]

6 hours ago, FLtractor said:

So how do you tell from the voltmeter reading if it is indeed a worn  starter generator? Vs a good non worn unit.. Given you said if it charges at 13 or higher. Happy yet possibly worn.. so how do you tell if it’s unit altogether for charging if 13 and higher and what else to look for?

 

There are only three parts. The wires, the generator, and the regulator.

 

13.5 is optimal. 13 is weak, but still charging. 12.6 is maintaining, 12.5 is discharging.

 

Wires are not a concern, not because they can't break, but because they are easy to fix.

 

If the generator is charging low with the engine running you need to do what is called a "full field" test. There is a wire running from the under side of the regulator to one of the posts on the generator. If you take a jumper wire and ground that post back to the battery negative terminal the it will make the generator put out it's full potential. If it clears 13.5V during that test the wires or regulator are suspect. It should only be run like that long enough to get the reading.

[adsm08 2,586]

On 3/29/2025 at 4:01 PM, rmaynard said:

 

Here it is:

 

 

Thanks Bob. I don't know what's up, but the last few weeks my computer has not been letting me save images from the web.

[pfrederi 18,298]

13 hours ago, adsm08 said:

 

There are only three parts. The wires, the generator, and the regulator.

 

13.5 is optimal. 13 is weak, but still charging. 12.6 is maintaining, 12.5 is discharging.

 

Wires are not a concern, not because they can't break, but because they are easy to fix.

 

If the generator is charging low with the engine running you need to do what is called a "full field" test. There is a wire running from the under side of the regulator to one of the posts on the generator. If you take a jumper wire and ground that post back to the battery negative terminal the it will make the generator put out it's full potential. If it clears 13.5V during that test the wires or regulator are suspect. It should only be run like that long enough to get the reading.

 

 

The wire that comes out the bottom of the regulator  goes to the "A" armature post on the Genny. it is NOT the one you want to ground.  You want to ground the "F" field terminal on the front edge of the regulator or easier for me ground the F terminal on the genny body.

[adsm08 2,586]

9 hours ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

The wire that comes out the bottom of the regulator  goes to the "A" armature post on the Genny. it is NOT the one you want to ground.  You want to ground the "F" field terminal on the front edge of the regulator or easier for me ground the F terminal on the genny body.

 

Yes, my mistake. Ground the F terminal. It should be stamped in the body F or Field, and the other A or Arm. Grounding the A terminal lets the magic smoke out.

 

I prefer to go back to the battery for the field test because it eliminates bad connections through the body, although it is somewhat less convenient. And I have an add-on hydraulic lift, so I have a moving belt to contend with right there.

[oliver2-44 10,291]

@FLtractor You've got us hanging on the edge of our seats. 

It's been 5 long days!

What's the conclusion to this Cliff Hanger?

Did you bring it home???????????????

or was it a poor condition bust?

[FLtractor 11]

5 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

@FLtractor You've got us hanging on the edge of our seats. 

It's been 5 long days!

What's the conclusion to this Cliff Hanger?

Did you bring it home???????????????

or was it a poor condition bust?

Got the tractor home. Need to get new shifter boot, flush oil and transmission fluid. 
figure out what I’m gonna do about the rear tires, being cracked as they are, water fluid filled, Orginal wheel horse tires. Any idea what those would cost new  for new wheels and tires? Advisable drive on them until they quite literally fall to pieces under the tractor?

Edited April 1 by FLtractor

[FLtractor 11]

Needs new deck wheels but gonna remove deck to two with. After I figure out how to

[pfrederi 18,298]

Probably not just water   Calcium Chloride  There should be a special place in Hell for people who put Calcium Chloride in tires...That maybe why there is so much rust on your wheels.  Getting tires of wheels that have been filled can be a really fun experience then turn out to be he wheel is toast.  I might run it till they fall apart, mean time save up for good used rims and new rubber...

[D_Mac 9,053]

Congratulations on your purchase. I never had fluid filled tires but it better not be just water in there. Water freezes. It's always good to start with fresh fluids in the engine and tranny. You can also pick up the little plastic knob for the hood release. That will make it easier to open and close the hood. Lubricate the throttle and choke cables if they are a little sticky  as well. Then grease all the zerk fittings. After I wash all mine I rub them down with boiled linseed oil. That thing will shine right up. Drive it around and have some fun with it. Congrats !

Edited April 1 by D_Mac

[FLtractor 11]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Probably not just water   Calcium Chloride  There should be a special place in Hell for people who put Calcium Chloride in tires...That maybe why there is so much rust on your wheels.  Getting tires of wheels that have been filled can be a really fun experience then turn out to be he wheel is toast.  I might run it till they fall apart, mean time save up for good used rims and new rubber...

What can i expect to pay for new 23x8.50x12 turf tires with wheels x2 these days?? Any places recommend to purchase from? 

[FLtractor 11]

33 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

Congratulations on your purchase. I never had fluid filled tires but it better not be just water in there. Water freezes. It's always good to start with fresh fluids in the engine and tranny. You can also pick up the little plastic knob for the hood release. That will make it easier to open and close the hood. Lubricate the throttle and choke cables if they are a little sticky  as well. Then grease all the zerk fittings. After I wash all mine I rub them down with boiled linseed oil. That thing will shine right up. Drive it around and have some fun with it. Congrats !

Happen to have a diagram showing where all the zerk fittings are or where they’re located? Can I wash it with zipwax?

[Ed Kennell 40,324]

17 minutes ago, FLtractor said:

What can i expect to pay for new 23x8.50x12 turf tires with wheels x2 these days?? Any places recommend to purchase from? 

Come to the Big Show in June and I'll sell you a mounted pair for $40.

[adsm08 2,586]

4 hours ago, FLtractor said:

Needs new deck wheels but gonna remove deck to two with. After I figure out how to

 

 

Deck removal is a lot easier than deck installation.

 

Slip the belt off the drive pulley on the right. Disconnect the lift link just behind the battery. Pull the butterfly pin at the front left, just behind the front axle and open the clamp. Deck will hit the ground. Then cut the wheels all the way to the right and work the deck out to the left.

 

To install reverse that process, setting the anti-scalp wheel on a 2x4 will help while getting the front bar clamped back in.

 

I would suggest replacing all the bearing and greasing everything up good while it is out. It's a process, but it is worth it, and @Handy Don , myself, and a few others can help you through it, including help finding the parts needed.

Edited April 1 by adsm08

[D_Mac 9,053]

You can wash it with anything. I spay them all down with a degreaser, rinse with a power washer. Then I rub it all down with the boiled linseed oil. The oil will bring that paint back. I use Simple Green as my degreaser. Others rub them down with WD-40. Do what works for you. If those rims are holding air,  I would just clean and paint them. I thought it had hubcap on the wheels. Shine those up.

[FLtractor 11]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

Come to the Big Show in June and I'll sell you a mounted pair for $40.

Most generous of you. Sent you a message 

[FLtractor 11]

Looking for recommendations for best way to Jack up tractor… for when i change the oil and transmission fluid.. have a 3 ton floor Jack but not sure where to place with the deck. 
Also, if I place the transmission fluid in the hole above the drain hole that’s on the left side… do I need to tilt the tractor? Plan on draining transmission fluid, adding new.. then flushing it driving it some then replacing with new gear oil. Would rather do it this way compared to shifter hole personally..

attached picture for reference. 

do I need to tilt tractor certian way for replacing engine oil as well? 

Edited April 2 by FLtractor

[oliver2-44 10,291]

On 4/1/2025 at 5:57 PM, FLtractor said:

What can i expect to pay for new 23x8.50x12 turf tires with wheels x2 these days?? Any places recommend to purchase from? 

 Just an FYI, most of todays tires width and height run a size small compared to the originals.  I run 23x9.50x12 where they originally were 22x8.5x12

[Retired Wrencher 5,625]

On 3/28/2025 at 5:33 PM, FLtractor said:

Afternoon,

New member here, looking at getting my first Wheelhorse, going to look at a 1966 856. 
seller says used last 3-4 years to pull 4000lbs boat. Somewhat underpowered. Runs starts everytime. Needs gauge wheels and deck spindle. Rear tires water filled and cracked badly. Told him I’d offer him $400.00 if I’m cosntion he states it’s in upon inspection. Total id be around $5-550.00 with tractor, trailer and 300 miles round trip. How does this sound for pricing based on description and condition? I’m in central Florida, looked online all over state and most is junk overpriced for garden tractors, not much to choose from down here. I’d be using it mainly to pull a steel wagon on property. Maybe get something to help me flatten or drag or cut some weeds- best impliment for that? 
thank you. 

@FLtractor You ask about jacking up a tractor. I use an atv jack with 6x6’s to give me Moore height. They’re cheap enough and handy. You do not get a sore back and neck pans when using this. 6x6 have to cut to frame width.  Not on belt guard. I can take a picture if needid.

Edited April 4 by Retired Wrencher

[FLtractor 11]

1 hour ago, Retired Wrencher said:

@FLtractor You ask about jacking up a tractor. I use an atv jack with 6x6’s to give me Moore height. They’re cheap enough and handy. You do not get a sore back and neck pans when using this. 6x6 have to cut to frame width.  Not on belt guard. I can take a picture if needid.

Would you send me some pictures when you get a chance please