Drive belt help

[tmc2872 15]

Am I possibly looking at an engine swap then ( before I owned)

[tmc2872 15]

I guess the next thing I guess I need to figure out is what engine this is. I know the 68 raider was supposed to have the k301s-4712b. What would be the best way to determine what engine it is?

[tmc2872 15]

[squonk 42,276]

I think it's a strong possibility that you have a K241-AS 10HP.

[tmc2872 15]

So I am assuming that I will need to mod, but what would be my first step?

[kpinnc 13,439]

1 hour ago, tmc2872 said:

what would be my first step?

 

Get the belt issue straightened out and use it with the K241. 10hp on an 8-speed is a very capable machine. 

[oliver2-44 10,236]

14 hours ago, squonk said:

This is a Raider 12, Notice the taller oil pan

 

I can get you a height measurement on the above type oil pan tomorrow. 

 

On 3/30/2025 at 9:24 PM, tmc2872 said:

Was this what you guys were meaning? It still doesn't seem to be getting enough drag. 

 

With that measurement you should be able to figure out how much you need to space engine up. I think the spacers (thick washers, pipe, etc) need to go under the flat steel plate pictured. The reason I say probable, is I’m a little unsure of the PTO hoop functioning properly. The PTO could need the spacers between the engine and plate. 
What say you Redsquare Guru’s. 

[WHX?? 50,467]

10 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

spacers between the engine and plate. 

Yes since it's a shaker plate. Or spacers under the wedge blocks.

 

I think he might be able to get decent clutching running what he brung. Play around with belt sizes and different finger tab arrangements. 

[Blasterdad 2,978]

I think the main issue you're having is it has the wrong belt guard on it. The PO used a newer C-Series style guard on it, (note the flare at the end). It's too short.

The Raider guard goes all the way BEHIND the PTO all the way to the drive pulley...

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,209]

The tractor model number 1-6231 did not change with the engine change in 1968. Tractor serial 414876 appears to be near the end of the early model production.

Early 1968 production using Kohler K301S-4712B with starter/generator and battery ignition 

Late 1968 production using Kohler K301S-47147b with Bendix starter, 10 amp alternator and magneto ignition with points and condenser

[Blasterdad 2,978]

The correct gaurd & solid mounts should make it plug & play...

[kpinnc 13,439]

40 minutes ago, Blasterdad said:

The correct gaurd & solid mounts should make it plug & play...

 

 

Fabrication can be fun, but it's full of pitfalls. Source the parts that make it work, and remove all the guesswork. 

 

Then get another tractor, and try all the experiments with that one! 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,209]

With the belt tight the bottom span between the transmission pulley and engine pulley should just clear the bottom lip of the guard.

This supports the belt when it is loose leaving the slack for the engine pulley.

One of your pictures looks like the belt is well above the lip suggesting the guard needs to be raised.

[Ed Kennell 40,213]

Might be easier to add a belt brake like Wheel Horse put on the 300 series.   They work with out a belt guard and belt guides.

 

 

[oliver2-44 10,236]

 

@tmc2872 it's a wonderful thing that Wheel Horse parts are so interchangeable. That is until you get to a situation like you have of several modifications. 

Because of the various modifications listed below, (which various members have identified) I don't think? there's really a "Correct Belt Guard"

What you currently have:

WH Raider 12 Tractor

C Series belt guard, probable late 70's

C Series Shaker Plate engine mount, late 70's

Large block , Small Base style Kohler engine 10,12,14 HP

Very Short Kohler oil pan as used on the late 60's tractors with large blocks, Small base 1045, 1055, 1075 and 1046

 

I said I would get some oil pan measurements, so here they are:

 

The original Large block, Large base Kohler oil pan is 2-3/8" high. I don't think it would work to space it up to this height since you have a C Series belt guard.

Also, It's not an option for you to use an original 2-3/8" high oil pan on you current engine since it is a "Small Base style engine.  

 

The Regular late 1970's Large bock, " Small Base" Shaker Plate Oil Pan is 1-1/2" high (you have a special 1" high, Small Base  late 1960's oil pan) 

Spacing the engine up a 1/2" would make the engine match the 1-1/2" shaker plate oil pan that matches the C Series belt guard. ----So this might work  

 P.S. replacing the worn out rubber engine mounts with the solid one @Blasterdad showed, would also be a good idea whichever way you go.

 

Because of several modifications, the Belt brake that @Ed Kennell Suggested might be the best way to marry all these modification's together. 

 

 

On 3/31/2025 at 10:26 PM, Blasterdad said:

The correct gaurd & solid mounts should make it plug & play...

15 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Might be easier to add a belt brake like Wheel Horse put on the 300 series.   They work with out a belt guard and belt guides.

 

 

 

 

 

This pan is a shaker style pan used in the late 70's early 80's on the shaker engines

 

This pan is the flat bottom style used on the 1045, 1055, 1075 and 1046, many Cub engines and other brands, the dipper on the connecting rod is very short on the engines that use this pan.