1974 Troy Bilt Rototiller

[Pete D 361]

I'm going to try to rescue what appears to be a 1974 Troy Bilt Horse 1 tiller.  Serial# 86008.(

I'm attempting to locate a carb for it. Jacks Small engine has no listing.

Any suggestions? Chinese replacement is ok to start.

Thanks!

 

 

 

Troy Bilt Horse Serial Numbers.pdf

 

Edited Sunday at 10:27 PM by Pete D

[ebinmaine 70,227]

32 minutes ago, Pete D said:

carb

 

@Pullstart has had decent luck replacing a Tecumseh carb with a Kohler one. 

I'd recommend it if the linkage can be reconciled. 

 

 

[Pullstart 64,192]

Here’s my carburetor magicery…

 

 

[ebinmaine 70,227]

41 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

carburetor magicery

 

 

 

 

Thanks Kevin.  

[Pete D 361]

I almost bought the Amazon $4.99 carb, but decided that it has to be a reject.  I don't want to waste my time.

I don't even know if this thing will run, so I'm just going to go with a cheap stock Chinesium carb to get it running.  It will need at least a tire tube, maybe 2, and perhaps a tire.  Will also need an air filter housing, so I want to hear it run before committing to anything else.

And fluids, of course, and likely an NGK plug.

Edited Monday at 12:09 AM by Pete D

[Skwerl58 742]

My 78 Troybilt Horse had a replacement Chinese carb when I bought it. Mine is the 6hp Tec and the choke lever had to be reshaped but it runs. Pops every now and then and when it gets to running rough I just turn the main adj on the bowl a bit and all is good to go. Used it a couple days last week and it fires right up.

[Stepney 2,342]

Some China carbs are hit and miss .. I've never had a good one for an updraft B&S or a Kohler K engine, but honestly the OE Teccy H/HH/VH carbs were so terrible, it's hard to make them worse. Every cheap amazon carb I had for them actually worked just fine. Sometimes need to massage the linkages but otherwise I'd give that a shot. Most of the Tec carbs had a little metering needle that floated beside where the main jet was screwed in .. you can't really get in there to clean them and once they're stuck it's over. 

[Pete D 361]

3 minutes ago, Stepney said:

honestly the OE Teccy H/HH/VH carbs were so terrible, it's hard to make them worse.

 

That's likely why there are some in my shop.  Somewhere.  Likely off snowblowers that would not run off idle unless the choke was on.

I didn't look very hard for one.

Btw, I've had pretty good luck with HIPA brand carbs for Briggs flatheads.

[ri702bill 8,883]

The idle circuit plugs up on the OE carbs - strip the carb body and shake it - you should hear the steel check ball rattle. It most likely won't. They rust in place, not serviceable - Only was able to free 1 out of 8 or so.....

I too did a K161 carb on a H60 - ran fine. Had to use 2 gaskets as I recall'

[Bill D 2,078]

Make sure you get the correct air filter for it.  Should be a foam element.  I had one once that someone put a paper air filter in in place of the correct foam one.  The paper filter was just restrictive enough that it made the engine suck oil thru the breather when under load.

[Pete D 361]

10 minutes ago, Bill D said:

Make sure you get the correct air filter for it.  Should be a foam element.  I had one once that someone put a paper air filter in in place of the correct foam one.  The paper filter was just restrictive enough that it made the engine suck oil thru the breather when under load.

 

There's no af housing, so I would need to find an entire assembly.  There were several different options.  I'm not sure what route I'll take, yet 

[Pete D 361]

So, this tiller needs carb linkage & springs as well.  It does need both tires, and it's missing one of the sides to the tiller shield.

It's getting pretty involved and is going to eat up time I'd rather spend on my shop & tractors.

I think I'm going to return it & let him scrap it.

Sad, because they seem to have been high quality tillers in their day.