Valve and Seat Grinder

[oliver2-44 10,201]

So on my C101 thread I mentioned it needing valves and seats ground. I’ve called several engine machine shops and like my search in the past the only one that will touch a small engine is Villas Engine Works in Bryan Tx, 4 hours away. 
 

Last night my wife was looking on the Nextdoor Neighbor site for our area and said someone had a valve grinder for $70. She messaged them and I went to look at it this morning.  The old hot rod guy had passed away and he wanted his tools to go to someone that would use them. Not just resell them. So after some question from his wife and my showing her my tractor pictures. She said it’s yours.  
The Black and Decker model 6305 Valve Grinder machine looked great. The stone on the left grinds the valve. The stone on the right is to grind the end of a valve shorter like needed on the Kohler 4,6,7,8 hp engines. 

It has a coolant pump and reservoir on the left lower side. 

 

 So I asked her if there was a large silver box with parts in it. She looked around and found the box with the Sioux brand Valve Seat Grinder. 

 

I haven’t got into it far enough to figure out if it has the correct pins to fit the Kohler valve guides. 

Several new square edged stones.  The larger new stone to the left is for the valve grinder. 

This is a diamond seat stone dresser.  From what I can tell you buy a stone and dress it to the angle you want. 

Doing a little research, the “Goodson Company” looks to still lists a lot of (expensive) stuff that fits this model. 
 

I had used one similar back in my high school tractor shop days (with help) 

SO I HAVE A LOT TO LEARN, 

If anyone on here has experience with these, I’m all ears and thumbs. 
I’m currently searching for a manual for both tools. 

I do have some old valves and 2 bad/cracked blocks to practice on. 
 

I suspect some of the Machinist forum's may also be a place for help.  

 

Edited March 18 by oliver2-44

[kpinnc 13,405]

3 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

someone had a valve grinder for $70.

 

I think you got a great deal here. Once you've got it set up I'd be willing to bet you can make your money back very easily. 

 

Even if you're not going to make money with it, these tools are unicorns nowadays. Well done! 

[ri702bill 8,878]

JIm - great score. Almost identical to the ones we used in Auto Trade Shop School back in the early 1970's.....

 

DO check the overall electrical condition of both tools - the brushes & springs may be gummed up, the cord insulation frayed.

 

Check the valve guide arbor(s) for straightness and wear. Both conditions will result with an incorrect seat grind.

 

Check the stones for visable cracks (they are probably way too small to "ring" them as you do with a bench grinding wheel)

 

Using the seat cutter - light pressure and no more than a second at a time. Straight down engagement of the powerhead - no side-to-side.

 

Check the runout of a known good valve in the valve dresser. Should be around .001 or dead on.

 

FYI - I do a more backyard approach using a benchtop lathe & Dremel for the valves and a Shopsmith Mark V as a vertical drill press to grind the seats. Works well.....

[oliver2-44 10,201]

@ri702bill Thanks for the suggestions to check it over.
     After I give it a good cleaning and remove some light rust, would you or anyone have any suggestions for a product to wipe the machined parts down with to prevent future rust. I’m familiar with wiping machine tools down with light oil. But since it won’t be used often, a dry or semi-dry coating (better than WD40) would be nice.  I’ll probable sew a draw string type cover to keep shop dust off it. 

    It will be set up in my shop which is weather tight and insulated, but not always heated or cooled.  While I’m 4 hours from the coast, the Texas Hill Country does see humidity swings that can cause tools and parts in my shop to rust. 

     

[parsonsponyz 162]

Nice score.  You did very well.  It's a good easy to use machine.

[squonk 42,187]

I'm redoing a K181 right now. I got new valves and for the first time doing these the intake valve had too much lash clearance right out of the package. Usually I always have to trim the stem end. It's head diameter and overall length were correct. The only thing I figured was the valve face needed to be cut .010". I'm thinking great, I'm going to have to take it to a machine shop and it will be days or weeks until they can "get to it" I called a shop 10 miles away. I know the owner died a few years back and his son took it over but I had no idea if they were even open any more. I called and left a message. He calls me back about a half hour later and says bring the engine and everything right over. I can do it while you wait. So he cut the face and set the lash on both valves. Cost me $20 cash for "lunch money" 

[ri702bill 8,878]

33 minutes ago, squonk said:

So he cut the face and set the lash on both valves

Just lap them in, clean it all up & recheck the stem to tappet clearances again...

[ranger 1,772]

Great find. I have the “Wolf” brand. It’s a shame we’re not in the same country, I have a brand new attachment for the “B&D” version, which allows for refacing rocker arms. 😢sadly it doesn’t fit the Wolf grinder!

[lynnmor 7,535]

Now you can get the correct angles, the correct seat width and the correct seat diameter.  You can't do that by lapping, which is a half-a$$ed way of doing valves.

[ri702bill 8,878]

3 hours ago, lynnmor said:

lapping, which is a half-a$$ed way of doing valves

 

Doing JUST a lapping is not the correct method...

Lapping is the last step after grinding the valve & seat, the "Proof is in the pudding" It gives a visual ring on both surfaces & allows you to verify the contact area is even all around, the correct width, and in the correct position... It also shows any pitted areas remaining on the seat....

Edited March 18 by ri702bill

[lynnmor 7,535]

Some engines call for a one degree difference between the valve and seat, lapping will quickly destroy that one degree.  Using a magic marker or prussian blue can show contact area.  Some auto engines as far back as the 1960' used valves with a plating that was not to be lapped

[953 nut 57,290]

On 3/17/2025 at 11:50 PM, oliver2-44 said:

The Black and Decker model 6305 Valve Grinder machine looked great.

There is no ZIP Code on the address so that is a pre 1963 unit, back when quality was important.    It doesn't appear to have seen much use, looks like new.

On 3/18/2025 at 5:11 AM, oliver2-44 said:

suggestions for a product to wipe the machined parts down with to prevent future rust.

How about giving it a wax job?  Wax won't attract and hold dust and will clean up with a little mineral spirits when needed.

[Kenneth R Cluley 579]

I am in FL and use paste wax "MINWAX" on my machinery. Table saw etc.  Leaves a nice coating to keep rust at bay. Same situation with humidity here.

[wallfish 17,343]

On 3/18/2025 at 5:11 AM, oliver2-44 said:

anyone have any suggestions for a product to wipe the machined parts down with to prevent future rust

Sprays on and dries leaving a thin coat that protects and doesn't attract dust. Kinda like paint but it's not permanent like paint 

[ebinmaine 70,205]

@oliver2-44

 

Excellent find Jim. 

Looking forward to seeing your progress.