Drill press repair help needed

[ebinmaine 70,205]

Well folks. 

 

I want to make my old drill press more user friendly and take a wobble out of the chuck. 

Thing is... I don't even know what questions to ask...

 

This was my Grampa's. I inherited it maybe 20 years ago. 

 

It's an inexpensive full stand up model of unknown make. 

I'll get pics later today. 

 

I'd like to be able to set it up to dependably bore a hole in the center of a shaft like a tie rod. 

 

 

Where do we start?

 

 

 

 

 

[WHX?? 50,329]

[ri702bill 8,878]

Three potential areas of wear come to mind.... all done with it NOT running....

1. The drill chuck - chuck up a rod or drill with no burrs and measuse the runout of the round item at the end of the jaws. Nothing fancy required - just a fixed pointer and feeler gages. Rotate the chuck and move the pointer so that it just touches at the high point, rotate the chuck to where it is furthest away & measure the gap. That is the total runout. (A dial indicator & magnetic base is the best, most accurate method for this.

2. Remove the chuck ( or hopefully there is a good diameter above it on the quill). Two tests here - repeat as above, and move the quill side to side by hand - both retracted and extended. Measure both. Wear could be bad bearings....

3. The quill itself - if it bent, it will never run true. Best way to check it is to remove it and roll it over a piece of glass. If it makes a clickety-click sound it is bent. No sound means it is straight...

[ri702bill 8,878]

30 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'd like to be able to set it up to dependably bore a hole in the center of a shaft like a tie rod.

And that is why you need to invest in a benchtop lathe......

[ebinmaine 70,205]

32 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

And that is why you need to invest in a benchtop lathe......

 

I'm all for that in principle but it's an expense of several hundred dollars at minimum and I have no skill set with either checking an old one for usability or understanding what new cheap one to buy.  

 

 

[Wayne0 806]

46 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Three potential areas of wear come to mind.... all done with it NOT running....

1. The drill chuck - chuck up a rod or drill with no burrs and measuse the runout of the round item at the end of the jaws. Nothing fancy required - just a fixed pointer and feeler gages. Rotate the chuck and move the pointer so that it just touches at the high point, rotate the chuck to where it is furthest away & measure the gap. That is the total runout. (A dial indicator & magnetic base is the best, most accurate method for this.

2. Remove the chuck ( or hopefully there is a good diameter above it on the quill). Two tests here - repeat as above, and move the quill side to side by hand - both retracted and extended. Measure both. Wear could be bad bearings....

3. The quill itself - if it bent, it will never run true. Best way to check it is to remove it and roll it over a piece of glass. If it makes a clickety-click sound it is bent. No sound means it is straight...

 

@ri702bill Is right. These are the major causes of your issue.

Janky chuck (cheap)

Bad quill bearings

Bent quill

If you do find out it's the chuck, I may have one depending on the attachment. (taper or threads).

[ebinmaine 70,205]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

 

 

Starting with the only label I am aware of, and then down the sides. Last pic is of course the foot on the floor.

 

[Wayne0 806]

Looks like a re labeled Jet.

[squonk 42,187]

Also looks like the Central Machinery one like I have. I too had a lot of wobble in mine. Removed the chuck. checked the runout of the quill with a dial Ind. and it's fine. cleaned the chuck where it goes into the quill as well as the hole in the quill. Put the chuck back in 180° from how it was installed and it's better but not perfect. Prolly will have to invest in another chuck.

 

Edited March 16 by squonk

[Wayne0 806]

Looks like squonky nailed it.

Is your chuck on a taper? The two I have are 1/2" thread.

[ebinmaine 70,205]

3 minutes ago, Wayne0 said:

Looks like squonky nailed it.

Is your chuck on a taper? The two I have are 1/2" thread.

 

How do I remove it either one way or the other to check?

[Wayne0 806]

Pop out the chuck like in the vidya and look in the jaws for a screw.

If there is one, it's screwed onto the tapered arbor. (the screw keeps it locked in) Otherwise, the chuck is on the arbor with a taper.

You can check it in the machine with a mirror too.

If it's threaded on to the arbor, remove the screw, close the chuck, put the key in and whack it with a mallet counter clockwise.

For taper, see below.

 

Edited March 16 by Wayne0
Added info

[lynnmor 7,535]

It shows a Morse taper #2 on the name plate.  Hopefully the video showed how to pop the chuck out using a wedge.  Once out, check the inside of the taper and the run-out in there, it is time to invest in a cheap dial indicator.  What you have is a cheap drill press made in Taiwan where numerous brands of the same design were produced.   Those cheap chucks often should be replaced with a Jacobs and the taper adapter can be suspect as well, your newly acquired dial indicator will show what needs replaced. 

 

Yes, I have a cheap drill press similar to yours but it at least has a down stop to control drill depth.  I used an indicator to tram the table and found it way out, so I cut it on the mill to bring it in to a reasonable tolerance.

[Wayne0 806]

Eric, I dug out mt spare chucks and they are only 1/2 inch. Not good for you.

[Mickwhitt 4,938]

That's not a screw on chuck.

 

It has a tapered hole at the back where a short stub taper is pressed in.

 

That stub taper could be an integral part of the quill in which case you will need appropriately sized wedges to force the chuck off. 

 

And it could be a morse taper which is half in the quill and you need a tapered drift to remove it.

 

I will take some snaps if you give me a moment. 

 

It's certainly not a piece of junk and orth getting into better fettle. 

 

Mick. 

 

[Mickwhitt 4,938]

So.

A bit of information about drill chucks in my workshop. 

This is a range of chucks, the first three left to right are mounted on morse taper shanks. From morse 4 on the left, then morse 1 then morse 2.

They are all stub mounted on Jacobs tapers. The two chucks on the right show the tapered hole for the stub taper.

The smallest of these chucks is a high precision Albrecht and worth about £400. The one on its own is a threaded body to go on a screw arbor. Engineering chucks like your machine are most usually morse or Jacobs stub tapers.

This photo shows a couple of taper shank drill bits, which are great if your drill press has a morse taper quill. You just tap the drill into the quill and your good to go, very accurate with no slipping. The larger item is actually a series of morse taper adaptors young down from morse 4 to morse 0. You'd never need to nest all together like that but it demonstrates that tapers can be accommodated in different machines. My lathe has a morse 5 taper in the headstock which is pretty big.

This shot shshot and arbor which is M 2 into the drill and Jacobs 3 into the chuck.

The U shaped flat metal pieces are tapered wedges to drive a Jacobs taper off. You tap them towards each other and the tapers do the work. 

The taper shank drill is fitted into a parallel shank adaptor, so you can use a taper bit in a parallel jaw chuck. Next to it is the taper drift used to eject the tapered bit from the socket. 

The drift is tapped into the slot and ejects the drill, or chuck. 

This is the morse 3 quill of my pillar drill. You can see the slot in the extended quill that tell you it's a morse quill. No slot it will be a stub arbor you will need a pair of taper drifts to remove. This drill press is a beauty as it has an auto eject mechanism which pops the morse taper out of the quill without a drift. 

Lastly this is a quick change M1 tool holder for my lathe tailstock. There is no ejector slot and so the threaded widget is screwed in to push the taper out from behind.

So there are a lot of permutations on morse tapers. 

if its a screw chuck be aware that the thread could be left or right hand. Most of the handle drills I have are right hand with a screw securing the chuck to the threaded shank down behind the jaws. But some are left hand with no securing screw, usually on drills that are none reversing. 

To remove a threaded chuck it's a case of putting the chuck key into one of the holes and tapping it sharply with a mallet to shock it loose. Not easy if you don't know if it's right or kept hand thread. 

[Mickwhitt 4,938]

As an addendum to my previous musings...

A few pics to illustrate some of the things I mentioned. 

This is a large M2 drill bit in my M3 pillar drill using an adaptor sleeve.

This is a M3 x 40mm countersink bit in the same machine.

Here are some more bits and bobs. The odd looking chuck in the centre is a 30 International taper with a collet drill chuck that fits in my jig boring machine. 

To the left of it is a stub arbor mounted chuck with the taper wedges set in place to drive the chuck off.

Tother two bits are M1 and parallel stub arbors.

That's the chuck above parted from the stub arbor. BE AWARE, if the chuck has frozen onto the arbor I have seen people have to machine the chuck off destroying it completely.  Not something to worry about with a morse type arbor but if it's the drill spindle type then the chuck literally has to be cut off. 

If it were my drill press I'd find out what type of quill it was and change the chuck for a quality brand one as a starting point. It does say #M2 on the plate so it's odds on to have a slot for a drift in the quill when you lower it down. 

Let me know how you get on. 

Mick 

[ebinmaine 70,205]

8 hours ago, lynnmor said:

it is time to invest in a cheap dial indicator

 

Turns out I have one here. Magnet mount too. 

 

 

It'll be a bit before I can check the runout. 

The Trina momma and her apartment is priority one for a couple weeks.  

 

 

[Wayne0 806]

15 hours ago, Mickwhitt said:

As an addendum to my previous musings...

A few pics to illustrate some of the things I mentioned. 

This is a large M2 drill bit in my M3 pillar drill using an adaptor sleeve.

This is a M3 x 40mm countersink bit in the same machine.

Here are some more bits and bobs. The odd looking chuck in the centre is a 30 International taper with a collet drill chuck that fits in my jig boring machine. 

To the left of it is a stub arbor mounted chuck with the taper wedges set in place to drive the chuck off.

Tother two bits are M1 and parallel stub arbors.

That's the chuck above parted from the stub arbor. BE AWARE, if the chuck has frozen onto the arbor I have seen people have to machine the chuck off destroying it completely.  Not something to worry about with a morse type arbor but if it's the drill spindle type then the chuck literally has to be cut off. 

If it were my drill press I'd find out what type of quill it was and change the chuck for a quality brand one as a starting point. It does say #M2 on the plate so it's odds on to have a slot for a drift in the quill when you lower it down. 

Let me know how you get on. 

Mick 

THAT was quite a lesson, Mick. Well done.