C120 resto in progress

[matt monte 149]

[matt monte 149]

was looking for a little advice. was excited to see her run for the 1st time today. Sadly that wasnt the case. I had my hand EVERYWHERE so i started with the basics. Cranks but doesnt run. Oddly enough if i spray starter fluid and hold the key cranking, she'll run at a high idle, as soon as i let go of the key, she dies, found that kinda by accident. Heres what i know:

While its a "new to me engine"  I had her running perfectly before i tore her down. I media blasted, cleaned her. I left the piston and connecting rod together inside block but tore her down to replace all gaskets. I replaced carb, fuel system as well as everything electrical except for the ignition switch, just forgot about it, but old one was working prior to tear down. I checked for spark and fuel. I have both. Only thing i can think of is Intake/exhaust valves. I adjusted those. Thought i did it right but since i did mess with it after i had her running, its only logical to go back to it. Honestly not sure how to proceed cause i did it with the head off, watching a YT video. I can pull a ignition switch from another known running tractor but im getting juice to the coil and inline spark tester. Also getting fuel to top of carb. I really dont feel like pulling carb to get to valves so if anyone can think of something im missing, by all means, let me know. Done for tonight, battery needs a re charge anyway. 

[Goldnboy 965]

I would start with electrical basic...such a if no 12v to plus on the coil it will never start.

[oliver2-44 10,139]

Nice looking restore!

 

Since you getting juice to the coil and spark at an inline tester, it doesn't sound electrical.

 

46 minutes ago, matt monte said:

 Cranks but doesn't run. Oddly enough if i spray starter fluid and hold the key cranking, she'll run at a high idle, as soon as i let go of the key, she dies, found that kinda by accident. 

if it starts on starting fluid, will it keep running if you choke it?  Which should make it pull more fuel.  

When you say new carb, is it an aftermarket carb? 

If so, did you pull the bowl and needles and clean them.  Many aftermarket carbs are dirty from manufacturing.

I've have fair luck with aftermarket carbs that fit 6.7.8 hp.  But not so much with the aftermarket ones that say they fit 10,12,14,16hp.  To me, that's too wide a spread for the internals to be the right size. 

Do you have the old carb?  They are worth cleaning and putting a kit in them.

 

The other area to check is timing. 

Did you set the points using the static timing method?  See the Kohler manual

 

Edited Wednesday at 02:43 AM by oliver2-44

[matt monte 149]

the carb was some Chinese junk off Amazon. ill have to check the parts bin for old carb. Static method? I watched "norm" from i save tractors on a YT video however i have kohler manual on a PDF, so its a perfect time to do things correctly instead of taking the hairbag method which, clearly isnt working for me. I built this from 4 old parts tractors that i saved from being a future Toyota or Honda fender,lol I'll recheck the wiring, thank you for posting wiring diagram. i had this running prior to pulling her apart so its definitely something i did causing it not to run, just didn't know where to start.

[ri702bill 8,813]

3 hours ago, matt monte said:

from being a future Toyota or Honda fender

The metal in a C series would most likely make several Toyotas or Hondas.....

[Achto 28,335]

Hard to tell in your pictures. Do you have the condenser installed ?

[matt monte 149]

yes, condenser is new, everything but ignition switch is new

[c-series don 9,300]

Hello fellow Long Islander! Is there still power to the coil when you release the switch from start to run? 

[oliver2-44 10,139]

@matt monte  Here's a nice write up on the Static timing method.

static_timing.pdf

Edited Wednesday at 03:45 PM by oliver2-44

[matt monte 149]

here is a video of engine running smoothly PRIOR to me messing with anything. Totally hesitant to mess with carb since ive done nothing to it other than remove and reinstall. I will read up on static timing, just printed it out to bring out to garage as well as test coil for power after letting go of key and report back my findings 

[matt monte 149]

the article was great, a bunch of setbacks. After fussing with attempting to hold multimeter cause i couldnt find my alligator clips, i broke down and went to AutoZone for new ones. Afterwards smooth sailing. When i was back to it only running if i hold key in start position, i came to terms that i must of made a mistake in my wiring. I pulled my b80 in from shed for a visual. Yeah no juice at coil in run position, ha so annoying lol thanks guys for reminding me to get back to basics.

[matt monte 149]

when i turn the key to run,  no juice to position "I" the black wire one that goes to coil. funny i feel like such a rookie lol ordered a new switch

[rjg854 11,756]

11 hours ago, matt monte said:

when i turn the key to run,  no juice to position "I" the black wire one that goes to coil. funny i feel like such a rookie lol ordered a new switch

The best way to learn anything is thru trial and error.  It seems to leave a lasting impression.

[squonk 42,037]

What year is this tractor? I don't know what year things changed but in 73 they had a 4 position switch. OFF ACC RUN START. I you have one of those and the switch gets put in ACC instead of run , well it won't run. 

[matt monte 149]

Frame is...... i forget b80? Tin is from i think C100? Or visa versa. Engine appears to be a replacement that was on a c125? Harness i made from wiring schematic with correct gauge and colors.  All MP local purchases for very cheap over the years to build one. I took detailed pics over everything and was gonna post a blog of sorts of all my experiences along the way if there is any interest in in that sort of thing, idk. Clearly 95% of what i learned came from here, as well as isavetractors, A-Z and a few others. Very niche group, wheel horse guys, different from the car/truck scene i usually roll with