matt monte 145 #2 Posted yesterday at 01:56 AM was looking for a little advice. was excited to see her run for the 1st time today. Sadly that wasnt the case. I had my hand EVERYWHERE so i started with the basics. Cranks but doesnt run. Oddly enough if i spray starter fluid and hold the key cranking, she'll run at a high idle, as soon as i let go of the key, she dies, found that kinda by accident. Heres what i know: While its a "new to me engine" I had her running perfectly before i tore her down. I media blasted, cleaned her. I left the piston and connecting rod together inside block but tore her down to replace all gaskets. I replaced carb, fuel system as well as everything electrical except for the ignition switch, just forgot about it, but old one was working prior to tear down. I checked for spark and fuel. I have both. Only thing i can think of is Intake/exhaust valves. I adjusted those. Thought i did it right but since i did mess with it after i had her running, its only logical to go back to it. Honestly not sure how to proceed cause i did it with the head off, watching a YT video. I can pull a ignition switch from another known running tractor but im getting juice to the coil and inline spark tester. Also getting fuel to top of carb. I really dont feel like pulling carb to get to valves so if anyone can think of something im missing, by all means, let me know. Done for tonight, battery needs a re charge anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 964 #3 Posted yesterday at 02:18 AM I would start with electrical basic...such a if no 12v to plus on the coil it will never start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,125 #4 Posted yesterday at 02:42 AM (edited) Nice looking restore! Since you getting juice to the coil and spark at an inline tester, it doesn't sound electrical. 46 minutes ago, matt monte said: Cranks but doesn't run. Oddly enough if i spray starter fluid and hold the key cranking, she'll run at a high idle, as soon as i let go of the key, she dies, found that kinda by accident. if it starts on starting fluid, will it keep running if you choke it? Which should make it pull more fuel. When you say new carb, is it an aftermarket carb? If so, did you pull the bowl and needles and clean them. Many aftermarket carbs are dirty from manufacturing. I've have fair luck with aftermarket carbs that fit 6.7.8 hp. But not so much with the aftermarket ones that say they fit 10,12,14,16hp. To me, that's too wide a spread for the internals to be the right size. Do you have the old carb? They are worth cleaning and putting a kit in them. The other area to check is timing. Did you set the points using the static timing method? See the Kohler manual Edited yesterday at 02:43 AM by oliver2-44 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 145 #5 Posted yesterday at 03:41 AM the carb was some Chinese junk off Amazon. ill have to check the parts bin for old carb. Static method? I watched "norm" from i save tractors on a YT video however i have kohler manual on a PDF, so its a perfect time to do things correctly instead of taking the hairbag method which, clearly isnt working for me. I built this from 4 old parts tractors that i saved from being a future Toyota or Honda fender,lol I'll recheck the wiring, thank you for posting wiring diagram. i had this running prior to pulling her apart so its definitely something i did causing it not to run, just didn't know where to start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,803 #6 Posted yesterday at 07:03 AM 3 hours ago, matt monte said: from being a future Toyota or Honda fender The metal in a C series would most likely make several Toyotas or Hondas..... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,320 #7 Posted yesterday at 12:02 PM Hard to tell in your pictures. Do you have the condenser installed ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 145 #8 Posted 21 hours ago yes, condenser is new, everything but ignition switch is new Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 9,287 #9 Posted 20 hours ago Hello fellow Long Islander! Is there still power to the coil when you release the switch from start to run? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,125 #10 Posted 20 hours ago (edited) @matt monte Here's a nice write up on the Static timing method. static_timing.pdf Edited 20 hours ago by oliver2-44 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 145 #11 Posted 19 hours ago here is a video of engine running smoothly PRIOR to me messing with anything. Totally hesitant to mess with carb since ive done nothing to it other than remove and reinstall. I will read up on static timing, just printed it out to bring out to garage as well as test coil for power after letting go of key and report back my findings 20241222_145612.mp4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 145 #12 Posted 13 hours ago the article was great, a bunch of setbacks. After fussing with attempting to hold multimeter cause i couldnt find my alligator clips, i broke down and went to AutoZone for new ones. Afterwards smooth sailing. When i was back to it only running if i hold key in start position, i came to terms that i must of made a mistake in my wiring. I pulled my b80 in from shed for a visual. Yeah no juice at coil in run position, ha so annoying lol thanks guys for reminding me to get back to basics. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt monte 145 #13 Posted 9 hours ago when i turn the key to run, no juice to position "I" the black wire one that goes to coil. funny i feel like such a rookie lol ordered a new switch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
