D_Mac 9,000 #1 Posted March 3 (edited) So I think I'm going g to need to rebuild the s/g on that Cub I just got. Dosnt seem to turn the engine over very fast. Starts right up when the engine is warm. One of the insulator studs is very loose. It's the stud that the battery connects to.. I have ordered new brushes, springs, bearing, bushing, and insulator studs. Watched a couple of YouTube vids but of course none with my model S/g. 1101691 is my model number. I guess instead of 2 bearings I have a bushing at one end. Supposedly that's tricky getting it out.. Also I'm not sure how the studs get replaced. If anyone has done one in the past and some words of wisdom I am all ears. Thanks I have an extra S/G off of a WH but it spins in the opposite direction and I hear it is not worth the effort in switching polarity. I could be misinformed. Edited March 3 by D_Mac 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,186 #2 Posted March 3 (edited) Starter gen turning slow. They take about 60-80 amps of inrush current to get rolling. Make sure all of the cable connections and all grounding points and generator mounting points are clean and tight. You will be surprised on how many amps you will lose with the generator mounting brackets being dirty and rusty. As far as the bushings go, if they are the "tin sleeve " style, On the GM starters that used them, I used to take a small screwdriver and a hammer and slice them lenght wise to collapse them to get them out. Edited March 3 by squonk 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,875 #3 Posted March 3 (edited) The early S/G's had 2 oil cups on top - they had a ball bearing on each end. The later style used a ball bearing at the pulley end; the far end only has a bronze sleeve bushing. There are 2 methods to remove that bushing ONLY IF there is a recess open behind it. There are special slide hammer bushing / bearing pullers that are split and blossom open after insertion to pull from the backside. The other is a favorite of mine - the thick grease & round shaft trick. I had a rather arrogant young Design Engineer express the desire to remove such a bushing in a competitors part without damaging either part. He wanted to know the amount of the press fit and how much it closed up the ID when installed... During lunch I took the part to the Inspection department and "borrowed" a gage pin .001 smaller than the ID. Went to the shop and filled the hole with the thickest grease they had. Insert the pin, push on it with an arbor press - the grease gets behind the bushing and it rose up 1/3 of the way out - all the grease was displaced. Add more grease, repeat. Cleaned up the parts and left them on the Designers Desk. It was probably 3 years later when I told him how it was done... IF there is NO recess, it needs to be split or cut out. Edited March 3 by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D_Mac 9,000 #4 Posted March 3 Pretty sure that's what mine is, pulley on one end brass bushing on the other. I'll keep that trick in mind when I start the rebuild. As far as the connections, once I remove it I will clean everything. I checked it all over now and all seem tight except for that stud coming from the starter generator. It wiggles like a loose tooth. I just got it started again. I am amazed at how easy it starts back up when engine is warm. Cold engine very hard to crank over. Occurred to me that maybe I should change the oil. The oil in it looks to be brand new. Maybe it's to heavy and being cold makes it harder to crank over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,012 #5 Posted March 3 You are correct, the Cub starter turns in the opposite direction from the Wheel Horse starter. Look on the bottom,back plate, you should see a CW or CCW stamped on the bottom. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,186 #6 Posted March 3 Cold weather will make it crank harder even with 10/30 in it. Going by the video you posted, that main cable going to the generator is pretty crummy. You can tighten the posts by removing the cable on the offending post and tighten the lower nut. You will need 2 7/16" wrenches to do it. The bottom one needs to be a thin wrench to fit between the gen body and the cable. Hold the bottom nut and take the top nut off. Then tighten the bottom nut. All my start/genny engines spin right over with 30W in them. Why? Good batteries, new oversize cables and clean mounting points. 3 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D_Mac 9,000 #7 Posted March 4 Next time you are in town Mike, feel free to stop by and give it a once over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,186 #8 Posted March 4 5 hours ago, D_Mac said: Next time you are in town Mike, feel free to stop by and give it a once over. It will be gone by then. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D_Mac 9,000 #9 Posted March 4 Well you better hurry then ! This one I might hang on to a little longer. Might be worth putting some extra time and money into it. Once it starts it runs really well. Fired up today a lot easier today. Still turns over slow. I think it's a nice garden tractor, really like these old Cubs. I got tires in the shed for it that I will put on. I will also get a belt for the deck. It also need a good cleaning. Here it is starting today. 50 degrees out today. 20250304_135358.mp4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites