Cutting threads on larger round rod?

[ebinmaine 69,921]

Is there anything special I need to know about using a 3/4 - 16 die to cut threads on a 3/4 rod? I've never attempted one this big.

[WHX?? 49,980]

@Achto ??? I would say no just get it started strait and plenty of cutting oil. 

Edited Thursday at 02:22 PM by WHX??

[Handy Don 13,131]

24 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Is there anything special I need to know about using a 3/4 - 16 die to cut threads on a 3/4 rod? I've never attempted one this big.

@ri702bill will certainly add his perspective on this.

My experience is only up to ⅝” and the machinist advice I got was all about alignment and taper. Use a drill press or tapping press to make sure the die is correctly aligned with the rod to be cut. Grind a short taper onto the end of the rod (to be cut off later) to help start the die. 

 

Edit to second @WHX??--lots of cutting fluid!

Edited Thursday at 02:24 PM by Handy Don

[ebinmaine 69,921]

8 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

@ri702bill will certainly add his perspective on this.

My experience is only up to ⅝” and the machinist advice I got was all about alignment and taper. Use a drill press or tapping press to make sure the die is correctly aligned with the rod to be cut. Grind a short taper onto the end of the rod (to be cut off later) to help start the die. 

 

Edit to second @WHX??--lots of cutting fluid!

 

 

Cutting oil I have. Tapering the end of the shaft I can do. Drill press or tapping press, not happening. I don't have any way to hold the material straight other than by eye unless somebody has a different suggestion.

[Handy Don 13,131]

4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

a different suggestion.

Since the goal is to keep the die face perpendicular to the rod, I’d consider clamping something with a true and perpendicular ¾” ID hole to the die as an additional stabilizer/guide to help keep it aligned.  Slipping it over the rod ahead of the die. A collar or coupler, for example?

Forgot to mention the standard die motion--forward to cut and then back to break off and clear cut off material

Also, realize that it takes a LOT of force to cut threads like that so the die carrier has to be quite sturdy and expect the rod to want to twist. 

[JCM 9,940]

McMaster-Carr or Grainger,  Different lengths  ?

[ebinmaine 69,921]

2 minutes ago, JCM said:

McMaster-Carr or Grainger,  Different lengths  ?

 

I got that part. 

 

What I'm trying to do is attach a large bolt from a vendor TO a plow control rod which is round. 

It's those control rod threads I need to cut.  

 

✂️ 

 

 

 

[Achto 28,294]

Set your eyeball level and try to run it as strait as you can. Like Jim said, lot's of lube. 

[JPWH 6,182]

PM sent 

[SylvanLakeWH 26,711]

14 minutes ago, Achto said:

Set your eyeball level and try to run it as strait as you can. Like Jim said, lot's of lube. 

 

Round die not hex, slow and steady...

 

[Ed Kennell 39,888]

Is the die adjustable?  If it is, open it to make the first cut.

Edited Thursday at 07:45 PM by Ed Kennell

[ri702bill 8,787]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Is there anything special I need to know about using a 3/4 - 16 die to cut threads on a 3/4 rod? I've never attempted one this big.

 

A few things come to mind about attempting this...

A concern - the 16 pitch thread is the finer of the two ( the coarse 3/4-10 is easier to start the die)...

IF there is any coating on the rod (zinc, chrome, or galvanize), it must be removed first prior to using the die.

Material??? Cold rolled steel runs about .005 smaller than nominal; drill rod usually runs right on the money; aluminum is usually oversize by up to.010 and can "crowd" the cutting tool.

Getting the die aligned & straight to the rod - I like to undercut about 3/8 to a 1/2" at the end of the rod - turned down to a size where to center of the die JUST fits over it. And add the taper as previously mentioned. This pilot is cut off when finished - allow extra material in the overall length.

The type of die used is critical. The cheap steel hex dies are NOT designed to cut new threads - they are thread chasing dies for existing threads. As Ed mentioned, you need the round style split die with the adjusting screw. A dull die is worthless and gets replaced. Start off with the screw turned in to wedge the die open, cut the thread, Then retract the screw and chase it to the final size. Check the fit into the mating part !!

Use the proper cutting fluid for the material & use it often.

Die cutting requires patience - revolve the die handle only about 1/3 revolution, reverse it back to clear the chip. IF the die starts to pack up with chips, retract it off the part and blow it & the part off with compressed air.

 

The biggest aggrevation you will encounter is the round part spinning in the vise - that is why I no longer use round stock to make tierods - I use 5/8" hexstock.

Have at it! 

 

Edited Thursday at 05:00 PM by ri702bill

[Pullstart 63,675]

Maybe for alignment, it would be easiest to set the die up in a vice, then spin the rod with a pipe wrench or the like to get it started square.  You can check square by eyecrometer or using a carpenter’s square to get you going in the right direction.

[Ed Kennell 39,888]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

 eyecrometer

  I use mine quite often.      When I had my cataracts removed, I paid the extra 3K to have the new lens with the 0.001" hash marks installed.   Calibrated eyeballs are the bomb.

[SylvanLakeWH 26,711]

4 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

  I use mine quite often.      When I had my cataracts removed, I paid the extra 3K to have the new lens with the 0.001" hash marks installed.   Calibrated eyeballs are the bomb.

So, no scope needed for deer season heh? 

[Ed Kennell 39,888]

17 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

So, no scope needed for deer season heh? 

Actually  it Makes a great range finder.   An absolute necessity for accurate archery shooting.  

Parallax is a displacement or difference in the apparent position of an object viewed along two different lines of sight and is measured by the angle or half-angle of inclination between those two lines.^[1][2] Due to foreshortening, nearby objects show a larger parallax than farther objects, so parallax can be used to determine distances.         

 

Sorry for the  Eric, but Kevin started it with his eyecrometer and Jim keeps encouraging me.     

 

Edited Thursday at 08:08 PM by Ed Kennell

[8ntruck 7,278]

26 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

  I use mine quite often.      When I had my cataracts removed, I paid the extra 3K to have the new lens with the 0.001" hash marks installed.   Calibrated eyeballs are the bomb.

Hummmm.  I've got to get cataract surgery in my dominant eye in the near future.  Might ask the doctor about that option.

[Handy Don 13,131]

1 hour ago, 8ntruck said:

Hummmm.  I've got to get cataract surgery in my dominant eye in the near future.  Might ask the doctor about that option.

Does it help with night vision? 

[SylvanLakeWH 26,711]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

Sorry for the  Eric, but Kevin started it with his eyecrometer and Jim keeps encouraging me.     

This just in... ! 

 

First time in RS history - an @ebinmaine thread has gone off topic!!!! 

[8ntruck 7,278]

6 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Does it help with night vision? 

My wife had cataract surgery.  She says it does help night vision.

[oliver2-44 10,115]

12 hours ago, ri702bill said:

 

Getting the die aligned & straight to the rod - I like to undercut about 3/8 to a 1/2" at the end of the rod - turned down to a size where to center of the die JUST fits over it. And add the taper as previously mentioned. This pilot is cut off when finished - allow extra material in the overall length.

The type of die used is critical.

 

Have at it! 

[Ed Kennell 39,888]

14 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Does it help with night vision? 

Due to the blinding glare from oncoming lights and the reflection from road signs, I could not drive at night.     With these new lens, no more night glare.

[Wayne0 752]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

Due to the blinding glare from oncoming lights and the reflection from road signs, I could not drive at night.     With these new lens, no more night glare.

I'll be on the road for that soon.....

[Red-Bovine 326]

If this is only a one time deal, you could buy threaded rod  from places like Bolt Depot. 1 Three foot rod would be 15 bucks.

 

 

[ebinmaine 69,921]

Just now, Red-Bovine said:

If this is only a one time deal, you could buy threaded rod  from places like Bolt Depot. 1 Three foot rod would be 15 bucks.

 

 

 

I'm joining two parts. 

 

I have one side that's threaded. And one needs it...