HyperPete 865 #51 Posted March 7 (edited) Getting back to pulley removal & the bearing splitter, is this available at advance auto? I can't seem to find it. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/o/loaner-tools?searchTerm=loaner tools&autoSuggest=true&docType=TOP_SEARCH_QUERIES&recentSearch=false Also, no keyways on my pulleys. The nut that was referenced was on the top? What's the point of leaving it on? Thanks! Edited March 7 by Pete D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,182 #52 Posted March 7 Your tractor numbering system is off, you should have numbered no. 2, 5 or 6, then you could go back and fill in the missing numbers. 1 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #53 Posted March 8 3 hours ago, Lee1977 said: Your tractor numbering system is off, you should have numbered no. 2, 5 or 6, then you could go back and fill in the missing numbers. Hey now, I'm a neophyte. I need a little time to learn the correct lingo & techniques! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #54 Posted March 8 Well, I ordered a puller kit. Advance doesn't loan them, and harbor freight sells them, but without the parts needed to use it. This only has 3" plates, so I hope it works. I'll know on monday 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,120 #55 Posted March 9 Which kit did you order? I have a bunch of pullers and bearing splitters, and heating tools. Heat is a good thing-loosener. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #56 Posted March 9 Here's the kit I ordered, now arriving today: https://a.co/d/fXLbVJE I heated one, but was not going to pry on it. They have been saturated with liquid wrench for several days. I expect they will pop right off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,120 #57 Posted March 9 2 hours ago, Pete D said: Here's the kit I ordered, now arriving today: https://a.co/d/fXLbVJE I heated one, but was not going to pry on it. They have been saturated with liquid wrench for several days. I expect they will pop right off. That's a good kit. I have that one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #58 Posted March 9 (edited) I'm about to go see if it will work for these pullies. Wish me luck! EDIT: NO LUCK. Too small diameter for the large pulley, too thick to slide under the small ones. Back to the drawing board. Edited March 9 by Pete D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,120 #59 Posted March 9 1 hour ago, Pete D said: I'm about to go see if it will work for these pullies. Wish me luck! EDIT: NO LUCK. Too small diameter for the large pulley, too thick to slide under the small ones. Back to the drawing board. What is the end goal here? Obviously you want to save the pulley, how attached are you to the spindle? I can get anything apart, but I need to know what can and cannot be destroyed to make the plan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #60 Posted March 9 (edited) Everything is good, so if it can all be saved, that's my goal. If I can't get it apart, on to plan B. EDIT: I think I'm going to have to make my own puller(s) with some plate steel and long bolts. Grrrr. Off to Swopes tomorrow, I guess. Edited March 9 by Pete D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #61 Posted March 21 (edited) Thanks to @adsm08 for getting the pulleys off the deck for me. They were very much rusted on to the spindles! I sincerely appreciate your time & effort to help me, a stranger, remove them I owe you one!! Edited March 21 by Pete D 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #62 Posted March 31 Will part # 40 fix this brake pedal issue? Would anyone have a rough measurement? $15 plus shipping for a spring requires personal lubricant, I fear... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,269 #63 Posted March 31 You have a part number on that spring? Does your tractor have the gas cylinder attached to the clutch? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #64 Posted March 31 6 hours ago, ebinmaine said: You have a part number on that spring? Does your tractor have the gas cylinder attached to the clutch? I can't answer about the gas cylinder, but here's the spring info: Toro 107677 SPRING-BRAKE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,269 #65 Posted April 1 @Racinbob @JCM @953 nut Can you folks help out with what spring the PO needs? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,909 #66 Posted April 1 On 3/30/2025 at 9:05 PM, HyperPete said: Will part # 40 fix this brake pedal issue? Would anyone have a rough measurement? $15 plus shipping for a spring requires personal lubricant, I fear... 45 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: @Racinbob @JCM @953 nut Can you folks help out with what spring the PO needs? No, that won't help your brake pedal issue. That's for the parking brake and a suitable replacement from the hardware store will work. Somewhere along the way the pedal linkage is messed up and is probably an easy fix. First, make sure the return spring #48 is correct. Use the specified spring. I've never seen a hardware store replacement for that one that's suitable. P/N 108035. After that I can't really help you without seeing it but as I said it's probably simple. On a related note, it looks like you have a damper on the clutch. Item #53 on the drawing. That will give you headaches. The 108035 spring alone has worked fine for decades and still does today. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,679 #67 Posted April 1 1 hour ago, Racinbob said: Use the specified spring. I've never seen a hardware store replacement for that one that's suitable. P/N 108035. Wheel Horse Parts and More has the spring. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/108035-clutch-spring-for-wheel-horse/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #68 Posted April 14 Still TRYING to find a tiller. This one is 3 hours away. I'm unsure where the tines get worn. Would someone mind explain, and does this look bad? $400. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 14,529 #69 Posted April 15 (edited) 15 minutes ago, HyperPete said: Would someone mind explain, and does this look bad? The tines wear on the leading edge of the end where they are forced through dirt. The ends of each tine will go from being squared off to an ever sharpening point. Look at the tines facing out. You can see where the paint is rubbed off. Over time the tine itself will wear the same shape to match. The tines in you latest picture look decent. Obviously you have a bad seal on the left but they are easily replaced once the tines come off. I would check on the condition of the bearing on the main axle. They see ridiculous forces during use and must be snug and well lubricated. Never use a tiller without checking the oil level. Edited April 15 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,616 #70 Posted April 15 Tines look good seals are replaceable. Nice tiller went for 300 at auction Saturday north of scranton pa just a bit more than I wanted to pay since i have one 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #71 Posted April 15 Arrrgh! I'd love to find one closer, and less expensive... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 9,931 #72 Posted April 15 (edited) I agree with these guys, tines that are squared off are the best. Tines that come to a point are shot. I say this speaking from experience. Pointy tines will work in sandy soil, but not in heavy soils. I’ve owned my tiller for 40 years (I can’t believe I’m even saying that! Wow time goes quick) I’m on my third set of tines. Splitting the case and replacing the seals is not a big deal. The hardest part is getting the tines off the shaft. I ended up taking the bolts out of the shaft then heating with a torch and putting the tiller to work IMMEDIATELY. Once the shaft was spinning inside the tines, I made slight turns left and right until the worked their way off the shaft. Edited April 15 by c-series don 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #73 Posted April 16 So, concerning the tiller above, will the Rototiller, model 79370 match my 414-8? It came off a 314. I don't want to lose the opportunity if it will fit. Mine is an 89. The manual shows it was made to fit 400 series from 93 - 99. I can't find a cross compatibility chart. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,269 #74 Posted April 16 Pete, We have a rototiller up here that is believed to be around 1997 vintage. When @JCM Jim got it ... it was hanging off of a 1977 C120-8. We'll be installing that on a 1974 C160-8. I'd bet you're fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HyperPete 865 #75 Posted April 16 9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I'd bet you're fine I have located the implement interchange chart. The 79370 supercedes the part# containing TL05. @nylyon <- can't remove this incorrect tag, sorry! Nylon(?) file admin said anything later than TL03 should work. I'm going for it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites