Weight box for snow plow

[Wayne0 742]

As some of you know, I've been using a piece of railroad track for weight on my plow. Well, it's hard to get it to stay put.

I fabbed up a weight box from a 50 cal ammo can to hook on to the front  tatchomatic.

It rests on the plow frame instead of the blade.

Having been in the printing trade 45 years or so, I've accumulated a 5 gal bucket of lead type.

Now I have a box to put it in!

Waiting for paint to post pics.

[rmaynard 15,814]

I don't know what type of driveway you plow, but the weight of the plow alone is more than enough to keep my 48 incher tight to the asphalt. On the other hand, if I try to pull snow with it, it will ride up over the snow. However, that is not the intent of a snow blade which is meant to push only.

[ebinmaine 69,812]

[SylvanLakeWH 26,626]

I used an old metal milk crate mounted on a winch plate to a 2" receiver... works like a charm...

 

 

Edited yesterday at 06:32 PM by SylvanLakeWH

[Wayne0 742]

1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

I don't know what type of driveway you plow, but the weight of the plow alone is more than enough to keep my 48 incher tight to the asphalt. On the other hand, if I try to pull snow with it, it will ride up over the snow. However, that is not the intent of a snow blade which is meant to push only.

Something else in my mind is a "back drag" blade attachment similar to the Fisher plows.

I'll have to brain storm that one.

The weight box came to me laying in bed last night!

[Wayne0 742]

35 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

I used an old metal milk crate mounted on a winch plate to a 2" receiver... works like a charm...

 

 

Doesn't keep the blade on the ground with out the down pressure link.

[ri702bill 8,769]

Wayne - At what hole position is the blade angle set?? The blade does not perform well at either end setting.... Too much angle.

I inherited about 120 pounds of lead ingots - each about 2-1/2 pounds. I stack them in the toolbox under the seat of the 854 for added traction, even with the filled tires and wheel weights...

 

 

 

[daveoman1966 3,771]

The very BESTEST way to keep the blade on the ground is by using the HARD LINK from the A-frame to the Bell Crank.  This works best on tractors with hyd lift but works with manual lift lever too...if you have the arm strength.  I can lift the front wheels about 4" off the ground on my C-160 Auto...48" dozer blade.  No need for extra weight on the blade or A-frame.  Get the SOLID LIFT LINK part #7706 here...about $28.  https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/toro-wheel-horse-solid-lift-linkage-7706-snow-dozer-blade-for-down-pressure/

[Wayne0 742]

1 hour ago, daveoman1966 said:

The very BESTEST way to keep the blade on the ground is by using the HARD LINK from the A-frame to the Bell Crank.  This works best on tractors with hyd lift but works with manual lift lever too...if you have the arm strength.  I can lift the front wheels about 4" off the ground on my C-160 Auto...48" dozer blade.  No need for extra weight on the blade or A-frame.  Get the SOLID LIFT LINK part #7706 here...about $28.  https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/toro-wheel-horse-solid-lift-linkage-7706-snow-dozer-blade-for-down-pressure/

I have a solid link that I made, but I don't use it as the blade digs in too much when I have to plow over dirt.

@ri702bill  Not a traction issue. I need to scrape with out the solid link. The blade is set 2nd hole from the top. Gives me good snow push and roll with out digging in or tripping on a light load.

 

Edited yesterday at 09:55 PM by Wayne0

[ebinmaine 69,812]

I can definitely see the need for a heavy blade. 

My 60" wide blade has a skidsteer cutting edge.  

Extremely heavy!!!

[Wayne0 742]

37 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I can definitely see the need for a heavy blade. 

My 60" wide blade has a skidsteer cutting edge.  

Extremely heavy!!!

Is that a custom made blade? Pretty big for a WH.

[ebinmaine 69,812]

2 minutes ago, Wayne0 said:

Is that a custom made blade? Pretty big for a WH.

 

 

Oh yeah. 

@wallfish combined a couple 42" blades years ago. 

We got it from him and I added a bit of bracing and welding along with the cutting edge.  

 

 

[wallfish 17,217]

4 hours ago, Wayne0 said:

Something else in my mind is a "back drag" blade attachment similar to the Fisher plows.

A regular blade will back drag better when the blade is tilted forward.

[Wayne0 742]

32 minutes ago, wallfish said:

A regular blade will back drag better when the blade is tilted forward.

Yeah, I could see that, but to change tilt mid plow would be a PITA. It would be nice to have a swinging edge that would come into play on the back drag.

Have you seen the way the Fisher works?

[wallfish 17,217]

12 minutes ago, Wayne0 said:

Yeah, I could see that, but to change tilt mid plow would be a PITA. It would be nice to have a swinging edge that would come into play on the back drag.

Have you seen the way the Fisher works?

Leave the blade forward all the time if you drag a lot. It doesn't need to be moved back and forth mid plow.

No I haven't seen that

[Wayne0 742]

14 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Leave the blade forward all the time if you drag a lot. It doesn't need to be moved back and forth mid plow.

No I haven't seen that

With the blade tilted forward, it skips over wet, packed snow.

I don't have to drag much. Only a bit in front of the garage door.

Not a big issue. I'm always trying to improve things.

 

Edited 21 hours ago by Wayne0

[SylvanLakeWH 26,626]

23 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Have you seen the way the Fisher works?

Pretty slick... I'm thinking not to hard to add to a WH plow if you do a lot of back dragging...

[Wayne0 742]

Pics as promised. About 50 lbs in there with room for more. The box pivots on the tachomatic to move up and down with the plow. I may have to re-think the attachment if it doesn't hold up.

 

Edited 7 hours ago by Wayne0

[ebinmaine 69,812]

Looks good from here.

 

[Handy Don 13,110]

1 hour ago, Wayne0 said:

I may have to re-think the attachment if it doesn't hold up.

All good except that I would make sure the ⅝” bolt’s theads are not rubbing on the hitch’s frame, especially since there will be regular movement there. 

[Wayne0 742]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

All good except that I would make sure the ⅝” bolt’s theads are not rubbing on the hitch’s frame, especially since there will be regular movement there. 

Actually, it's a 1/2" bolt. A little small, but it was handy. I'll dig through my "pile-o-stuff". I think I have a piece of 5/8" stainless. I'll drill it for pins.

Confirmed it works as expected. I just finished scraping 2" of ice off my driveway.

Edit- The stainless is 3/4", however I can sleeve the bolt to cover the threads.

Edited 3 hours ago by Wayne0