Bolt kit(s) or list(s).. Let's make a list.

[ebinmaine 69,735]

I've had several discussions over the last couple years in particular about a list of bolts needed to completely disassemble and reassemble 1977 or older tractors.

 

@Maz91 @Rob J.  and some others have questioned me and Trina about making one up.

 

So let's get to it.

 

Let's come up with a list, or several, that covers a given year range? Or model?

If a couple models were pretty close then we could default in a direction it covers both.

 

 

 

I've also been tossing around the idea of marketing these to the Supporters of Redsquare. As a few of you know I buy my Fasteners in bulk so they're cheaper to me than onesie twosies. I'd pass the savings along of course.

 

 

I would probably resell a quantity available with locking or non locking nuts. That means I would have to account for the extra length in the bolts.

 

 

 

 

 

Questions. Suggestions. Comments? What say you?

[ri702bill 8,761]

Side humor. Our Puchasing Guy was infamous for his cheapness.

He went to the local Home Center to purchase about 400 pavers for the driveway at his new house. He inquired if there was a price break for buying a large quantity. The salesman told him that the more you buy, the cheaper the piece price. The first guy replied "OK, load them on until they are free. I'll return the ones left over !!"

[Goldnboy 963]

I usually buy my bolts and nuts at auctions by the 5 gal bucket . However not shiny new...however usually always get USA grade 5 or better. I avoid fine thread hard on my eyes...

[gt14rider 814]

Maybe bolt depo could work with you and make a set or set's,. I've bought form them before and thay package them in individual packs with size and length. See how many it will take for a discount. Or give the kits a #part number, and anyone can order the # pn and get right from bolt depo. 

 

[oliver2-44 10,090]

I'm almost finished putting the Suburban's and C120 -C160 Parts list in Excel spread sheets. 

Then I can sort them as needed

[Horsin'round 143]

I think that this would be a very useful tool. Consistency with the hardware is a detail that is often overlooked,  but is noticeable to the observer.  When original hardware is not readily available,  a matching substitute is sometimes the best choice for an honest restoration/repair. 

[Retired Wrencher 5,591]

Eric sounds like a good Idea for the ones who do a lot of tear down to frame. I personally am getting away from that. I just retap all holes and rethread all bolts.this is for 50 + yeas of dirt and grease build up. I use new nuts and lock washers where needed.Thank you for the post.   

[Lagersolut 715]

I have a tool bag here with enough to probably do 2 more tractors - everything I restored changed the fasteners to stainless so I'm not fighting it if they need removed again .

Edited 18 hours ago by Lagersolut

[ebinmaine 69,735]

7 hours ago, Lagersolut said:

stainless

 

I like a good quality stainless steel for the look and anti corrosion properties BUT stainless tends to strip and gall out for me. Too much torque applied. 

 

Sharp looks though! 

 

 

For the strength difference and some anti corrosion we use yellow zinc coated Grade 8. 

 

Was I looking for original I'd go a different way. 

 

[Lagersolut 715]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I like a good quality stainless steel for the look and anti corrosion properties BUT stainless tends to strip and gall out for me. Too much torque applied. 

 

Sharp looks though! 

 

 

For the strength difference and some anti corrosion we use yellow zinc coated Grade 8. 

 

Was I looking for original I'd go a different way. 

 

I didn’t sacrifice strength where it’s needed - differential - trans case and frame to trans are all grade 8 - cup points on the hubs I never had luck with grade 5 - those get  black oxide hardened from McMaster .  

[ebinmaine 69,735]

Just now, Lagersolut said:

cup points on the hubs I never had luck with grade 5 - those get  black oxide hardened from McMaster

 

Same.  

 

I've used the hardened black and also some Grade 8. 

[pfrederi 18,193]

12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Same.  

 

I've used the hardened black and also some Grade 8. 

 

 

Me too but let me warn you  if you are adding a second set screw to an old hub make sure you grind a flat surface on the hub.  Guess mine wasn't exactly flat.  Put in the alloy steel cup point set screw ran on the 3/8 jam nut an torqued the heck out of it. snapped the set screw off flush with h hub surface.  Some day some one will wind up with real problem getting the hub off...

[ebinmaine 69,735]

1 minute ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

Me too but let me warn you  if you are adding a second set screw to an old hub make sure you grind a flat surface on the hub.  Guess mine wasn't exactly flat.  Put in the alloy steel cup point set screw ran on the 3/8 jam nut an torqued the heck out of it. snapped the set screw off flush with h hub surface.  Some day some one will wind up with real problem getting the hub off...

 

 

Agreed and good advice. 

I've definitely done that to myself already.  

 

 

[wallfish 17,198]

Any of you guys changing out all of that crappie looking original hardware for the new stuff, save it all and give it to me! I'll get rid of it for ya. LOL

A 1960s or 70s tractor can be completely disassembled without striping or breaking a single fastener, try that with the new stuff after only 10 years! That older hardware is much better quality.

[ebinmaine 69,735]

4 minutes ago, wallfish said:

That older hardware is much better quality.

From any box store or import stuff I absolutely agree. 

 

I HOPE ...  and I believe... that the Bolt Depot hardware will last. 

I've broken new cheap stuff even in accident. 

I've never busted a Bolt Depot piece.  

 

 

6 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Any of you guys changing out all of that crappie looking original hardware for the new stuff, save it all and give it to me!

 

Dunnit once already! 

And you'll eventually get more.