3-14-8 Clutch Gas Damper

[jeff lary 173]

I really hope this has not been beat to death before, but I cannot find the information I think I need. My gas damper is worn out and it's hard to engage the clutch gently anymore sometimes it is so violent it will throw the drive belt off, and we all know how much fun that is. Anyway, when I looked up the part number for the gas damper 100-8732 I have found costs that range up over $300.00 ha ha. Then I found a link to a thread about getting rid of the gas damper and using a spring instead. Has anyone here done this? does anyone know the P/N for the spring needed to do this? I found a part number but I'm not sure it's the whole number it read like this 108035.... usually when I see (.... ) that means to me that there is more to the information. Thank you if you have any information about this. Jeff

 

EDIT; I looked up the P/N above for the spring and it seems to be readily available from several places so that much is solved. However, I would still like to know if you have done this and where it attaches.

Edited Monday at 07:28 PM by jeff lary

[ri702bill 8,761]

Yup - toss the troublesome gas dampener cylinder, replace it with the spring. One end hooks to the linkage / arm, the other into a hole in the gusset on top of the left axle casting.

[Racinbob 11,463]

  Absolutely, 100% throw that gas thingy in the dump. The spring only has worked for decades and still does. Your number is correct. That was one of the first things I did to my 2005 Classic when I got it. At least a gazillion of them on Ebay.

[jeff lary 173]

So, I thank you both I can do that I will order the spring today. I do have another question and hate to start another thread so I will ask you two, has anyone found a way to keep the black rubber throttle control knob attached to the rod? I have mine taped on because I don't want to lose it, I figure someday someone will figure out a way to keep it attached.

[Racinbob 11,463]

Depends on the model. On my 2005 I drilled and used a pin. The older style JB Weld has worked.

[jeff lary 173]

That was my idea as well its all I could think up. I have  the 2000 year model  it just presses down or in onto the flat steel shaft. I do have JB Weld too. Thank you both for your replies I will get after it this summer. Jeff

[peter lena 8,977]

@jeff lary agree with @Racinbob on the toss it out  , have yet to see a  lawn tractor that does not have  rusty  , movenment  anything points , for a peak at lubrication areas , check  out related schematic  , on every movement spot , reccomend , a penetrating oil first , to get the rust moving , then an aerosol  red spray grease , and nozzle extension , should be effortless  and no  violent  engagement . pete

[jeff lary 173]

Thats true in many cases but I don't think so in mine she's in pretty pristine shape, but I will look her over well while I am in there. All that said the strut is done a 3-year-old child could compress it. I just asked to see if people had found a work around for this issue. I have a 3/12/8 that had this same problem back when i was mowing with it. Now I just keep the snowblower with cab on that one year-round. I use the 3/14/8 for mowing and garden tilling.

[My_horse 6]

A few years ago, my 314-8 wouldn’t move properly when releasing the clutch pedal. I had to hook my heel behind the pedal and pull back. Investigated the issue, and it was the gas cylinder. I got the spring used on the older models and left the gas cylinder in place. It’s been fine ever since. Coincidentally, the spring is also the same one for the snowblower belt tensioner. 

[jeff lary 173]

mine sticks I guess or is weak ? I don't know but at WOT if you are not very careful when you let out the clutch it will throw the transmission drive belt. Then its an hour getting my tools out to where I am, and dismantling the Titanic to get the belt back on.

Edited 20 hours ago by jeff lary