Need some help with Toro Tractor Snow thrower idler pulley setup

[Rick53 3]

I an older toro 264H tractor with a snowthrower 79263 attached.  Looks new. It was shipped. So the snow thrower was taken apart. Here's what I can't figure out for parts schematic pictures. 

 

Can you buy any type of basic chain ?  There's no chain.

 

The idler pulley has 2 washers a bolt, nut and I'm assuming a spacer. Does anyone know the order they go in? I am not sure if the spacer goes after the idler pulley when setting on the chain or at the beginning. 

 

I'd sure appreciate some advice 

[Blasterdad 2,881]

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,195]

The illustrated parts lists should show all the parts and how it is assembled.

[Lagersolut 719]

29 minutes ago, Rick53 said:

I an older toro 264H tractor with a snowthrower 79263 attached.  Looks new. It was shipped. So the snow thrower was taken apart. Here's what I can't figure out for parts schematic pictures. 

 

Can you buy any type of basic chain ?  There's no chain.

 

The idler pulley has 2 washers a bolt, nut and I'm assuming a spacer. Does anyone know the order they go in? I am not sure if the spacer goes after the idler pulley when setting on the chain or at the beginning. 

 

I'd sure appreciate some advice 

  

Toro is very proud of their chain - around/over 100 when restored mine 5 years ago - option two is tractor supply for a roll - I went with the roll bought a chain break was still 50-60 bucks ahead - should be 40 chain - 10 foot roll you'll have enough left for a spare

Edited February 12 by Lagersolut

[Rick53 3]

9 minutes ago, Lagersolut said:

  

Toro is very proud of their chain - around/over 100 when restored mine 5 years ago - option two is tractor supply for a roll - I went with the roll bought a chain break was still 50-60 bucks ahead - should be 40 chain - 10 foot roll you'll have enough left for a spare

Aah thanks I have several chain brakes . Tractor supply is just down the road . I have an electric bike chain I thought might work . Appears to be just as heavy duty. Do you have any idea the order of where the spacer for the idler pully goes ?

[Lagersolut 719]

23 minutes ago, Rick53 said:

Aah thanks I have several chain brakes . Tractor supply is just down the road . I have an electric bike chain I thought might work . Appears to be just as heavy duty. Do you have any idea the order of where the spacer for the idler pully goes ?

 

Inside between the idler and blower frame #8 is your spacer - I put a new nylon lock nut on my idler ....

 

 

Edited February 12 by Lagersolut

[Rick53 3]

20 hours ago, Lagersolut said:

 

Inside between the idler and blower frame #8 is your spacer - I put a new nylon lock nut on my idler ....

 

 

Hey thanks much . Got a chain at the local mom and pop hardware . Nice heavy duty chain .$16.53 .   I have it all put together . Noticed that that auger spins freely backwards but occasionally sticks running forward . So I am thinking maybe it's warrps some or the housing is warped .  When I engage the PTO it appears to operate so not sure what I experienced . The only thing I see that might be an issue would be the spindle bearings . Although they spun just fine before I tightened things up . Spins backwards no problem . Only forward and only occasionally . Concerned in auger sprocket has a bad tooth . Even though it barely looks used . The paint is still on many of the sprocket teeth. Weird 

 

 

[Lagersolut 719]

40 minutes ago, Rick53 said:

 

 

Nothing should be sticking - sticking makes me wonder and nervous a bearing is getting tired - you have 4 bearings - 1 on each side of the blower drive shaft - 1 on each side of the auger - # 21 is the auger bearings - #10 is your main drive shaft bearings - the bearing plates on the outside for the auger can be stubborn but once you get them started it's a cake walk - if I had to guess the auger bearings is the first thing I'd check - moisture can get in there - replaced all 4 on mine because my luck if I didn't - spin one with 2 feet snow in the driveway .

Bearing 10 part # is 110569

 

 

Edited February 12 by Lagersolut

[Lagersolut 719]

I priced your bearings on the bay - 16 for the shaft ( each )  12 each for the auger both free shipping

[Rick53 3]

Yeah thanks I really appreciate this . Where are you finding these quality schematics . The one's I've found are the same drawings but you can't really see anything. These you are posting are great .  I ordered auger bearings as well as shaft bearing collars . Found a place on the bay . Looked them up and ordered direct. Should be here Saturday . Saved a few more $$ from buying them thru the same place directly . Again many thanks 

 

I sprayed some molly grease as a temporary solution on the auger where bearing is . Smoothed it right out . So that is obviously the part of the culprit . There mist be some rust on the shaft . I loosened the bearing collars and they refused to move . Same for the pully . It's friction welded. Even after removing the 2 set screws holding it in place . It won't budge Rather then force, I sprayed WD and will let it set. Might have to use a heat gun to get it off. For now it appearing the auger bearings are the main issue. 

 

Fortunately you can get these parts from somewhere other than Toro Dealers 

 

MORE ISSUES  Looks like my main problem is the shaft collar bearings . It came with 2 new looking belts . Both say toro and match the serial numbers . They fit fine . Hard to get on . I checked the adjustment on the 2 rear idler pullies and that looks fine .Other then the spring is loaded with rust .When I engage the PTO after a minute or less the belt will fall off . Looks like when the PTO is engaged there is some side to side play of the shaft .I don't have the new ones yet to check . It appears by the pictures you posted The collar and bearing fit together as one piece. If that's correct . both mine appear to be broken allowing the shaft to go back and forth. It's not much but appears to be just enough the shaft pulley isn't turning concentric . I can see the belt wobble ever so slightly. Sorry to keep bugging you but I have searched all over the net . I find no info at all on the setup. The lift lever doesn't hold up the deck either . It catches and then slips out of the slot.  Doesn't appear to be damaged .  I see there's a way to adjust the lever pull height . I assume that only effects a mower deck . I didn't even know that adjustment was there . Yet everything that goes with the blower mounted just fine. 

 

Again sorry to keep pestering you . 

[Lagersolut 719]

2 hours ago, Rick53 said:

Yeah thanks I really appreciate this . Where are you finding these quality schematics . The one's I've found are the same drawings but you can't really see anything. These you are posting are great .  I ordered auger bearings as well as shaft bearing collars . Found a place on the bay . Looked them up and ordered direct. Should be here Saturday . Saved a few more $$ from buying them thru the same place directly . Again many thanks 

 

I sprayed some molly grease as a temporary solution on the auger where bearing is . Smoothed it right out . So that is obviously the part of the culprit . There mist be some rust on the shaft . I loosened the bearing collars and they refused to move . Same for the pully . It's friction welded. Even after removing the 2 set screws holding it in place . It won't budge Rather then force, I sprayed WD and will let it set. Might have to use a heat gun to get it off. For now it appearing the auger bearings are the main issue. 

 

Fortunately you can get these parts from somewhere other than Toro Dealers 

 

MORE ISSUES  Looks like my main problem is the shaft collar bearings . It came with 2 new looking belts . Both say toro and match the serial numbers . They fit fine . Hard to get on . I checked the adjustment on the 2 rear idler pullies and that looks fine .Other then the spring is loaded with rust .When I engage the PTO after a minute or less the belt will fall off . Looks like when the PTO is engaged there is some side to side play of the shaft .I don't have the new ones yet to check . It appears by the pictures you posted The collar and bearing fit together as one piece. If that's correct . both mine appear to be broken allowing the shaft to go back and forth. It's not much but appears to be just enough the shaft pulley isn't turning concentric . I can see the belt wobble ever so slightly. Sorry to keep bugging you but I have searched all over the net . I find no info at all on the setup. The lift lever doesn't hold up the deck either . It catches and then slips out of the slot.  Doesn't appear to be damaged .  I see there's a way to adjust the lever pull height . I assume that only effects a mower deck . I didn't even know that adjustment was there . Yet everything that goes with the blower mounted just fine. 

 

Again sorry to keep pestering you . 

 

 

2nd post of this thread Blasterdad posted a link you can download the PDF with all the schematics - that's where I'm getting them - I'm on a PC with a 17 inch monitor - using the snipping tool to cut the portion you need - PC is much better vs a smart phone for schematics - I'd say get your new bearings installed and check the orientation of all your pulleys to make sure everything is in line - I'm not familiar with the lift and belt orientation of the vertical shaft engine tractors so you're getting to the end of my ability to help .  All my units are older horizontal shaft . Make sure your idler spring isn't shot not snugging the belt to the pulleys .

[Rick53 3]

Thanks for everything 

[Lagersolut 719]

11 minutes ago, Rick53 said:

Thanks for everything 

 

Make sure the belts that came with it are the right belts - I restored 3 tractors that came from other places with a lot of wrong stuff with or on them or the accessories - wrong fasteners - wrong pulleys/idlers  - wrong washers - wrong belts - etc etc etc

[Rick53 3]

They actually have Toro printed on them. with one saying 94-2879 on the cardboard sleeve on it and 1/2 x 131.5  * 334.01 CM   According to the manual I found it sounds like you pull on the belt and get it on the pulley attached to the shaft . Putting it on the top PTO groove of that pulley system. The guy I bought it from said bottom groove ? I just used the physics route wrapping it on by holding it on the pulley while turning it forward like you'd put a tire on a rim. Trying to physically pull the belt and compress that spring on the idler pullies, while on your knees was harder by far . My bearing stuff is arriving in the mail this afternoon . SO hopefully that fixes it. 

[Rick53 3]

What about the large pully . Mine doesn't seem to want to budge . I've taken it all apart but obviously can't install the bearing collar at that end without removing that pulley. Do they just come off hard? Based on pictures it doesn't seem to thread on . I removed the 2 small square head bolts . We I be correct it assuming it just needs the rust broken to move it? Thanks . 

[wallfish 17,248]

1 hour ago, Rick53 said:

Do they just come off hard?

Yes

1 hour ago, Rick53 said:

We I be correct it assuming it just needs the rust broken to move it?

Yes

[Rick53 3]

On 2/15/2025 at 8:03 PM, wallfish said:

Yes

Yes

You were right . Thanks . I also had to cut the bearing collar on the sprocket end . It wouldn't budge . Dremel was a life saver . After taking it all apart there doesn't seem to be much use for the ability to put grease in the flange once put back together . Most of the grease doesn't even reach the bearing collar . I greased the old parts on a regular basis . When I took it apart grease was everywhere except where it would have done some good . LOL 

Edited February 17 by Rick53

[Rick53 3]

On 2/15/2025 at 8:03 PM, wallfish said:

Yes

Yes

Got it all done . My only question would be lining up the shaft side to side . I don't find any scoring marked   All I did was tap the shaft to where the chain appears to be in line with the auger sprocket . It appears the locking collar is what holds the shaft in place . Just wondering if there's a more precise way ?  Thanks 

[wallfish 17,248]

1 hour ago, Rick53 said:

Got it all done . My only question would be lining up the shaft side to side . I don't find any scoring marked   All I did was tap the shaft to where the chain appears to be in line with the auger sprocket . It appears the locking collar is what holds the shaft in place . Just wondering if there's a more precise way ?  Thanks 

Lining the chain up is more important than a belt is. The chain is long enough between the sprockets to "eyeball it" but you could try to use something straight and a tape measure to figure out a more precise way.

[peter lena 9,023]

@Lagersolut your reference to bearing issues , are very common  , and usually  a related  idler set up will reflect that , zeroed  in to that years ago , with  similar  mower deck  belt bounce  , wit tiny INCREMENTAL  bearing  lubricant  hang ups , have made a point of  doing a bearing upgrade /  re grease  ,  realise that  not all bearings are the same set up , but have always found a substutite  bearing , and a vital , clean out and re grease , hi temp , polyurea  , made for , smooth / silent  movement . also added  another  idler pulley to my mower  decks , on the back side , of  long unsupported belt run . basically  take apart its  intended  function , and correct the faults . my belt driven attatchments , move by hand , at  pto drive belt start . repeditive  problems , show you the way , to issue , if you are a purest , this is a you can,t do that , change out the  fault  area , pete   

[Rick53 3]

14 hours ago, wallfish said:

Lining the chain up is more important than a belt is. The chain is long enough between the sprockets to "eyeball it" but you could try to use something straight and a tape measure to figure out a more precise way.

Thanks I ended up taking a magnifying glass and noticed a very fine hash mark on the pulley end . This setup toro has isn't the best . Why would they put a grease zerk on a flange when it's not possible to get the grease to the bearing . Which happens to be a sealed bearing anyway ,  LOL   Of course I've been shooting grease in not knowing this until I took it all apart. 

On the bright side I learned a hack to get the pully off in seconds rather then beating it off. At least I now know to replace these inexpensive parts every other season. Before they friction weld themselves in place . They are cheap enough . Thanks for all the help . Think I got in now. At least I hope so ;}

[wallfish 17,248]

Original bearings were greasable.

Apply anti-seize compound on the shaft before the parts go on and those things will come off much easier for replacement in the future. Sorry for the too late advise but maybe next time

[Rick53 3]

3 hours ago, wallfish said:

Original bearings were greasable.

Apply anti-seize compound on the shaft before the parts go on and those things will come off much easier for replacement in the future. Sorry for the too late advise but maybe next time

Not a problem already thought of the anti seize. I have it all together and discovered the bolt I was sent for the idler sprocket on the chain is bent. You can't tell until you install it . The person I bought this stuff from practically gave it away.  He didn't include the chain and idler pulley, Said he lost them . Based on the bolt I'm guessing they were in bad shape . Anyway now the search goes to find that bot Toro 325-8 . Hoping the local hardware might have a substitute . So far on line it's a week to get one 

[wallfish 17,248]

23 minutes ago, Rick53 said:

Not a problem already thought of the anti seize. I have it all together and discovered the bolt I was sent for the idler sprocket on the chain is bent. You can't tell until you install it . The person I bought this stuff from practically gave it away.  He didn't include the chain and idler pulley, Said he lost them . Based on the bolt I'm guessing they were in bad shape . Anyway now the search goes to find that bot Toro 325-8 . Hoping the local hardware might have a substitute . So far on line it's a week to get one 

Use a cup point set screw or bolt. Hex head or square head. It's always a good idea to replace them anyway

Just search the size

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/set-screws~/

A good hardware store should have the hex socket type screws.

Edited February 19 by wallfish

[Rick53 3]

11 hours ago, wallfish said:

Use a cup point set screw or bolt. Hex head or square head. It's always a good idea to replace them anyway

Just search the size

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/set-screws~/

A good hardware store should have the hex socket type screws.

Thanks again. for sharing your obvious superior knowledge .