Best way to prep a tractor for paint

[1968Commando 26]

Thank you sir for the information.

[Handy Don 12,901]

1 hour ago, Easton Rich said:

I would wire-wheel it and use a self etching primer. In the end it looks like you spent hours sanding it with sandpaper. Advice from a fellow 68’ Commando owner.

Wire wheels work depending on the stiffness of the wire and the angle at which they get applied. Stiff wires (as most cups have) can leave deep scratches. Soft wires might not remove the paint (though they will usually remove surface rust). 

Over large flat surfaces the paint stripping disc like the one you list (or a finer one) will be a LOT faster and leave fewer swirls/scratches. To get the feel of it, test gently on a non-visible or scrap part. 

 

Self etching primer is definitely the way to go once you have bare metal. 

Edited 16 hours ago by Handy Don

[SylvanLakeWH 26,357]

Given your budget it's worth asking: Is your intent a show tractor or a worker that's decently preserved?

 

If a worker, no reason to go to bare metal... sand down, prime and paint, sand and spray with clear coat, or just coat with penetrol and enjoy the tractor... 

 

If for show, then proceed with the great suggestions above... 

[ri702bill 8,636]

DO use the same brand primer & topcoat paints to avoid any compatibliity issues.....

 

Easy way to paint the wheels with the tires on - use playing cards tucked into the deflated bead... and warm the areosol can in hot water between coats...

 

 

 

[1968Commando 26]

3 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

A very thin layer of bondo, because if you use to much it’s just more to sand off.

 

2 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Given your budget it's worth asking: Is your intent a show tractor or a worker that's decently preserved?

 

If a worker, no reason to go to bare metal... sand down, prime and paint, sand and spray with clear coat, or just coat with penetrol and enjoy the tractor... 

 

If for show, then proceed with the great suggestions above... 

I plan on it being kinda a mix of both if that makes sense right now I mow yard so the tractor is used for this but I plan on lowering the amount of use it gets so it won’t be a strict show tractor but it won’t be worked hard like I have been using it before this.

[1968Commando 26]

3 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Wire wheels work depending on the stiffness of the wire and the angle at which they get applied. Stiff wires (as most cups have) can leave deep scratches. Soft wires might not remove the paint (though they will usually remove surface rust). 

Over large flat surfaces the paint stripping disc like the one you list (or a finer one) will be a LOT faster and leave fewer swirls/scratches. To get the feel of it, test gently on a non-visible or scrap part. 

 

Self etching primer is definitely the way to go once you have bare metal. 

Ok so I am looking for fewer swirls and less scratches so I think my best bet is to run that disc, should I try and find a finer one or should I just use that do you think. Sorry for so much back and forth this is the first ever painting or restoration I’ve done so I’m just trying to make the best choices possible to stay within budget and also have a nice final product 

[Bar Nuthin 859]

29 minutes ago, 1968Commando said:

Ok so I am looking for fewer swirls and less scratches so I think my best bet is to run that disc, should I try and find a finer one or should I just use that do you think. Sorry for so much back and forth this is the first ever painting or restoration I’ve done so I’m just trying to make the best choices possible to stay within budget and also have a nice final product 

If you have an orbital sander, you would be fine to use that disc to strip it down, then use the orbital sander with some 80 grit to work out any scratches and swirls in the metal. At that point you could blow it off then wipe it clean with lacquer thinner and be ready apply primer. If you still see scratches, sand the primer with some 180 or 220 grit and re-prime - repeat as needed. Once you're satisfied with the finish, final sand with 320 or 400 grit - You can also use the dk red (fine) ScotchBrite pads for any tricky areas. Wear a mask and keep things as clean as possible.

Edited 13 hours ago by Bar Nuthin

[Handy Don 12,901]

@Bar Nuthin is referring to a fairly strong orbital sander. Not one designed for just for polishing. An angle grinder is also usable as long as the disc is rated for the grinder’s RPM.

Understand that I am not really a “patina” person and that colors my advice.

Removing paint and rust can be slow and discouraging (and dirty and dusty) but if you hang in the results can be quite satisfying. I generally figure two to three hours of prep lets me prime for two or three minutes and then finish coat for another two or three minutes 

[1968Commando 26]

11 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

@Bar Nuthin is referring to a fairly strong orbital sander. Not one designed for just for polishing. An angle grinder is also usable as long as the disc is rated for the grinder’s RPM.

Understand that I am not really a “patina” person and that colors my advice.

Removing paint and rust can be slow and discouraging (and dirty and dusty) but if you hang in the results can be quite satisfying. I generally figure two to three hours of prep lets me prime for two or three minutes and then finish coat for another two or three minutes 

Ok I do have a Grinder I also have an air orbital sander available but I think the grinder will work best as the compressor can’t keep up with the demand of air. 
 

[Pullstart 63,323]

 I’m a little late to the part, but another vote for an E-tank.  They are simple to build, and do great work.  I’ve run up to 24 volts DC with the best results.  You can use a battery with your tender, it just might take a little longer than a good power source.  But the beauty is, you can set it up outside before you head to bed or school, and it does the work while you aren’t looking!