Commando 8 restoration

[1968Commando 51]

Hello, I’m going to document my wheel horse restoration here for future reference of other redsquare members and so that way I can have some help if need be on certain things while I go thru this I have completed the engine already I am having some throttle cable issues and such but I’ll cross that bridge when it comes. 

[1968Commando 51]

A video of the engine running I have to figure out the governor/throttle setup it’s all messed up it has been since I’ve owned it because when I got it, the previous owner (my uncle) put a aftermarket throttle setup after the original locking knob broke 

[ebinmaine 69,955]

 

 

5 hours ago, 1968Commando said:

I have to figure out the governor/throttle setup

 

 

You'll find plenty of pics and information here along with several great parts vendors.  

[Ed Kennell 39,933]

Commando 8  one of my early restorations.    May be of some help on your Commando 8.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[1968Commando 51]

Just a little update for yall got all the pieces power washed up at the local self serve bay 

[1968Commando 51]

On 2/3/2025 at 10:27 AM, Ed Kennell said:

Commando 8  one of my early restorations.    May be of some help on your Commando 8.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi sir, I read thru this forum and there was quite a good amount of information just a few questions for you. What bolt did you use on the axle pin? Also what other steering upgrades did you do, somthing is wrong with the pictures on my end because they won’t show up, otherwise I would probably know what you did. Thank you. 

[Ed Kennell 39,933]

19 minutes ago, 1968Commando said:

Hi sir, I read thru this forum and there was quite a good amount of information just a few questions for you. What bolt did you use on the axle pin? Also what other steering upgrades did you do, somthing is wrong with the pictures on my end because they won’t show up, otherwise I would probably know what you did. Thank you. 

Sorry, I'm afraid some of the pictures have been deleted and a lot of the things I did have been lost in my fading memory. I think the front axle bolt was a standard hex head bole and a nylon lock nut. I may have altered the head and cut the length to fit.  For the upper steering shaft bearing, I think I welded in a plate to support a 3/4" flanged spherical bearing.  I'm not sure if I did it on this one,but Being unable to remove steering wheels without damaging them, I have cut the shafts below the support and put them back together with a shaft sleeve coupling after during the bearing upgrade.

[ebinmaine 69,955]

7 hours ago, 1968Commando said:

Hi sir, I read thru this forum and there was quite a good amount of information just a few questions for you. What bolt did you use on the axle pin? Also what other steering upgrades did you do, somthing is wrong with the pictures on my end because they won’t show up, otherwise I would probably know what you did. Thank you. 

 

Are you referring to the bolt that holds the axle pin in place? Or using a bolt for the axle pin itself?

 

There are a few steering upgrades that can be done. A big one that we do here and I highly recommend is to change your tie rods over to the next size up of heim joint. 

The original 3/8 studs have probably worn the holes egg-shaped so you may want to drill them out to the next size up. 7/16."

Using a 7/16 instead of 3/8 is beneficial for strength as well.

 

There are also bushings that can be put in to multiple pivot points.

[1968Commando 51]

8 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Sorry, I'm afraid some of the pictures have been deleted and a lot of the things I did have been lost in my fading memory. I think the front axle bolt was a standard hex head bole and a nylon lock nut. I may have altered the head and cut the length to fit.  For the upper steering shaft bearing, I think I welded in a plate to support a 3/4" flanged spherical bearing.  I'm not sure if I did it on this one,but Being unable to remove steering wheels without damaging them, I have cut the shafts below the support and put them back together with a shaft sleeve coupling after during the bearing upgrade.

Ok thank you I will look into using the bearing for sure. I actually got super lucky on the steering wheel and it came off with very little struggle…..the hitch pin oh that’s another story. The axle pin was broken at the tap that attaches it to the frame like most were…I’m kinda curious as to how it wasn’t pushing out or anything but still stayed in so I guess that’s good but I guess it’s a pretty common issue that they break were mine broke I wonder why they break there just just be due to wear in the pin and then it pushes on the tab and breaks?

Edited February 5 by 1968Commando

[1968Commando 51]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Are you referring to the bolt that holds the axle pin in place? Or using a bolt for the axle pin itself?

 

There are a few steering upgrades that can be done. A big one that we do here and I highly recommend is to change your tie rods over to the next size up of heim joint. 

The original 3/8 studs have probably worn the holes egg-shaped so you may want to drill them out to the next size up. 7/16."

Using a 7/16 instead of 3/8 is beneficial for strength as well.

 

There are also bushings that can be put in to multiple pivot points.

Yea I’m looking into using a bolt for the axle pin to save money plus my axle will slide back and forth almost a half inch when installed now to solve this issue I did pick up some machined washers too help fill the space but the issue I’m wondering is how much of a permanent fix that is because I think it will probably just end up eating those up and then it’s I’ll be loose again. I will look into heim joints It may be expensive to do I know I could do it though I’ll just have to read up on it a little bit, thank you for your time 

Edited February 5 by 1968Commando

[Handy Don 13,133]

59 minutes ago, 1968Commando said:

Yea I’m looking into using a bolt for the axle pin to save money plus my axle will slide back and forth almost a half inch when installed now to solve this issue I did pick up some machined washers too help fill the space but the issue I’m wondering is how much of a permanent fix that is because I think it will probably just end up eating those up and then it’s I’ll be loose again. I will look into heim joints It may be expensive to do I know I could do it though I’ll just have to read up on it a little bit, thank you for your time 

Using a threaded bolt as the axle pin will cause rapid wear of the threads, the hole through the axle, and the holes in the frame that support the axle. All bad things.

Why? Because threads are sharp edges kinda like the teeth on a file.

If you are in need of an axle pin, best to replace it with a piece of steel rod with a tab welded on one end where the “keeper” bolt holds the pin in place.

SAE washers, which are somewhat smaller in overall diameter and have holes closer to their nominal size, will work fine to stop the fore-aft play of the axle in the frame. 

 

Edited February 5 by Handy Don

[1968Commando 51]

16 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Using a threaded bolt as the axle pin will cause rapid wear of the threads, the hole through the axle, and the holes in the frame that support the axle. All bad things.

Why? Because threads are sharp edges kinda like the teeth on a file.

If you are in need of an axle pin, best to replace it with a piece of steel rod with a tab welded on one end where the “keeper” bolt holds the pin in place.

SAE washers, which are somewhat smaller in overall diameter and have holes closer to their nominal size, will work fine to stop the fore-aft play of the axle in the frame. 

 

Sorry I ment like a special bolt almost like a shoulder hex bolt or somthing similar but if I can’t find anything I’ll just use a new pin

 

[Ed Kennell 39,933]

1 hour ago, 1968Commando said:

Yea I’m looking into using a bolt for the axle pin to save money plus my axle will slide back and forth almost a half inch when installed now to solve this issue I did pick up some machined washers too help fill the space but the issue I’m wondering is how much of a permanent fix that is because I think it will probably just end up eating those up 

This slop in the axle is common and that I is one reason I used a bolt instead of a pin.  After assembly with the all the washers I could fit in I could tighten the bolt to eliminate all the  front to rear slop.   I tighten the bolt with the nylock nut just enough to eliminate all fore to aft movement but still allow the axle to pivot freely.    Like Don stated it is important to get a bolt that is log enough that there are no threads in the axle.    No need to worry about the washers wearing. Grease the face of the washers and the bolt and if the axle does loosen up over time, you now can easily tighten the bolt or replace a washer.  If you grease the washer faces and the axle zerk fitting you will find the bolt does not move in the frame. The axle only rotates on the bolt.  The reason the tab is broken on all the tractors is because the axle zerks were never greased and the axle rusted fast to the pin causing the pin to rotate in the frame wearing the holes in the thin frame after breaking the tab. If the holes in the axle supports are worn badly, you must also repair those.   I have repaired some of these by welding a block with a predrilled hole over the worn hole.   This new bolt is used to position and hold the blocks iin the correct position during welding.

[1968Commando 51]

24 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

This slop in the axle is common and that I is one reason I used a bolt instead of a pin.  After assembly with the all the washers I could fit in I could tighten the bolt to eliminate all the  front to rear slop.   I tighten the bolt with the nylock nut just enough to eliminate all fore to aft movement but still allow the axle to pivot freely.    Like Don stated it is important to get a bolt that is log enough that there are no threads in the axle.    No need to worry about the washers wearing. Grease the face of the washers and the bolt and if the axle does loosen up over time, you now can easily tighten the bolt or replace a washer.  If you grease the washer faces and the axle zerk fitting you will find the bolt does not move in the frame. The axle only rotates on the bolt.  The reason the tab is broken on all the tractors is because the axle zerks were never greased and the axle rusted fast to the pin causing the pin to rotate in the frame wearing the holes in the thin frame after breaking the tab. If the holes in the axle supports are worn badly, you must also repair those.   I have repaired some of these by welding a block with a predrilled hole over the worn hole.   This new bolt is used to position and hold the blocks iin the correct position during welding.

Ok im going to go out to the hardware store after school today and look for a bolt that would work, also my steering shaft that goings thru the frame part is worn out so I will probably make somthing like you did the only problem is I have to find a big enough drill bit but I’ll get that sorted 

[ebinmaine 69,955]

37 minutes ago, 1968Commando said:

have to find a

 

 bit but I’ll get that sorted 

 

Important words above. 

DO feel free to keep asking LOTS of questions. 

Odds are nearly 100% that one (or dozens) of us has solved whatever it is.  

 

 

We have several really good vendors here on Red Square. Some of us keep our own Parts departments. So to speak.

[1968Commando 51]

12 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Important words above. 

DO feel free to keep asking LOTS of questions. 

Odds are nearly 100% that one (or dozens) of us has solved whatever it is.  

 

 

We have several really good vendors here on Red Square. Some of us keep our own Parts departments. So to speak.

Ok well I guess my next question so we’re ed bolted that plate to the frame what are those holes there for, because I saw them on my frame and  nothing was bolted to them 

[ebinmaine 69,955]

Just now, 1968Commando said:

Ok well I guess my next question so we’re ed bolted that plate to the frame what are those holes there for, because I saw them on my frame and  nothing was bolted to them 

@Ed Kennell

[1968Commando 51]

4 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Are you referring to the bolt that holds the axle pin in place? Or using a bolt for the axle pin itself?

 

There are a few steering upgrades that can be done. A big one that we do here and I highly recommend is to change your tie rods over to the next size up of heim joint. 

The original 3/8 studs have probably worn the holes egg-shaped so you may want to drill them out to the next size up. 7/16."

Using a 7/16 instead of 3/8 is beneficial for strength as well.

 

There are also bushings that can be put in to multiple pivot points.

I will look into doing this when I get home I’ll get a picture of it,   When you say shaft are you talking about were it connected to that triangle steering shaft or the spindle it’s self? 

Edited February 5 by 1968Commando

[Ed Kennell 39,933]

1 hour ago, 1968Commando said:

I have to find a big enough drill bi

Might be easier to make the plate and take the flanged bushing and plate to a machine shop to drill the hole.    Or a school shop class.

[Ed Kennell 39,933]

23 minutes ago, 1968Commando said:

we’re ed bolted that plate to the frame what are those holes there for,

There should have been a flanged bearing similar to the one I made bolted thru those holes.

[1968Commando 51]

21 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

There should have been a flanged bearing similar to the one I made bolted thru those holes.

Oh ok, well mine was missing then haha 

[ebinmaine 69,955]

1 hour ago, 1968Commando said:

Oh ok, well mine was missing then haha 

No worries. They're readily available new and used.

[1968Commando 51]

39 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

No worries. They're readily available new and used.

I was just going to set it up how Ed had it and make it because I already have the flanged bearing just need to make the plate 

[1968Commando 51]

41 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

No worries. They're readily available new and used.

Also you said you drilled out and replaced the tie rod studs are you referring to were it connects to the steering rod or were it connects to the spindals?

 

[1968Commando 51]

Here is what my tie rod ends look like and where they connect they actually don’t look to bad so I may just leave them be what do you think @ebinmaine?

 

 

the spindle will get shimmed or maybe not it might actually need to have some up and down movement??? Not sure