Mike Wilbur 6 #1 Posted Saturday at 10:16 PM I have a B80 I use as my shop tractor and the muffler has broken/gallen apart. What are my replacement options. It doesn't need to be OEM and I;m not realy seeing any good aftermarcket options. Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,410 #2 Posted Saturday at 11:28 PM (edited) Here's a few threads for you to peruse. Edited Saturday at 11:28 PM by ebinmaine 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,650 #3 Posted Saturday at 11:32 PM The B80 is very similar to a C81. Could go that route. Or a stack like on my 854. C81 style is quiter.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Wilbur 6 #4 Posted Sunday at 12:10 AM (edited) The muffler on the C81 is the one I have on mine. I havn't found one like that. I may go with a stack muffler though. Edited Sunday at 12:49 AM by Mike Wilbur Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,393 #5 Posted Sunday at 11:08 AM Although I've got a couple of the original Nelsons Wheel Horse used I used the Gravely style that's been mentioned on my reborn B-80. I like the compactness of it and it's about as quiet as any and keeps the front of the engine clear. Another member hat made stacks is Bud Andrews. It looked scaled just right for my Suburban and sounds awesome. I wouldn't use a stack on a worker though. Tree branch clearance. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,410 #6 Posted Sunday at 11:37 AM 28 minutes ago, Racinbob said: I wouldn't use a stack on a worker though. Tree branch clearance. Same here but not because of the tree branches. ( I'll cut those in a heartbeat. ) I don't like having the exhaust exit at face height. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,650 #7 Posted Sunday at 11:38 AM 27 minutes ago, Racinbob said: I wouldn't use a stack on a worker though. Tree branch clearance. Exactly why I kept mine as short as possible - actually shortened the top pipe several times to get the sound "correct". Included the much-needed lower support to prevent damage if there were to be a branch - muffler territorial dispute.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,410 #8 Posted Sunday at 11:42 AM 2 minutes ago, ri702bill said: if there were to be a branch - muffler territorial dispute.... 🗡⚔️✂️🔪🪚 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Wilbur 6 #9 Posted Sunday at 12:04 PM (edited) 1 hour ago, Racinbob said: Although I've got a couple of the original Nelsons Wheel Horse used I used the Gravely style that's been mentioned on my reborn B-80. I like the compactness of it and it's about as quiet as any and keeps the front of the engine clear. I like how thats mounted. how did you attach that to the engine? at the moment I have that same muffler just attached where the stock one was cut off but it doesn't fit or look decent. Mike Edited Sunday at 12:15 PM by Mike Wilbur 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,650 #10 Posted Sunday at 12:25 PM Using existing engine tapped holes. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,410 #11 Posted Sunday at 12:39 PM 26 minutes ago, Mike Wilbur said: I like how thats mounted. how did you attach that to the engine? at the moment I have that same muffler just attached where the stock one was cut off but it doesn't fit or look decent. Mike Mike I've used these Gravely type mufflers several times. The exhaust pipe stub in the engine can be a ... challenge... to remove. Doable with patience. It likely won't just simply unthread but it's possible. To (re) mount the replacement I use new iron pipes. Just measure the lengths needed including the thread insertions. Angles are readily available at many hardware stores. Once the iron pipes are in place you can use a small automotive clamp to hold the muffler to them. This is a slightly different setup being a larger Tecumseh engine but it shows the idea. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Wilbur 6 #12 Posted Sunday at 12:51 PM (edited) 20 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: The exhaust pipe stub in the engine can be a ... challenge... to remove. Doable with patience. It likely won't just simply unthread but it's possible. Looking at mine I figure I'll need to heat it to get it out. I doubt I can mess up the cast iron. I think I'll go this way. I thought about a stack just because I like them but this tractor lives outside. I have a small engine shop and its my tow dead stuff around with machine, it also has a ball mount for moving trailers around. Mike Edited Sunday at 12:59 PM by Mike Wilbur Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,410 #13 Posted Sunday at 02:14 PM 1 hour ago, Mike Wilbur said: Looking at mine I figure I'll need to heat it to get it out. I doubt I can mess up the cast iron. I think I'll go this way. I thought about a stack just because I like them but this tractor lives outside. I have a small engine shop and its my tow dead stuff around with machine, it also has a ball mount for moving trailers around. Mike To remove the stub we often need to use a jig saw with a good sharp blade to: 1. Cut off the iron pipe 1.5" to 2" from the engine. 2. Then slowly make a slice or two into the nipple inside the engine exhaust outlet. 3. Use a hammer and punch and flop in one side of the cut part. That breaks the rust bead there. 4. Use a large pipe wrench to grip what's left and it'll curl out with some effort. As far as the stack, I love the look. See my C160-8 Cinnamon Horse. If the tractor needs to live outside you can use a good quality flapper or get an old metal soup can or equivalent. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,650 #14 Posted Sunday at 02:27 PM Eric At the bottom of the Tee there is a steel square head pipe plug that I machined the head flat - it was rather rough - and tapped it thru for a 3/8-16 bolt. Also handy to act as a drain if moisture were to accumulate at the bottom. That 1 x 3/4 x 1 Run Tee is not axactly an easy item to find. I found 1 x 1/2 x 1 but wanted more wall thickness in the plug. The 1 x 1/2 x 1 also tapers a lot more & looks a tad silly.... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,393 #15 Posted Sunday at 03:58 PM 3 hours ago, Mike Wilbur said: I like how thats mounted. how did you attach that to the engine? at the moment I have that same muffler just attached where the stock one was cut off but it doesn't fit or look decent. Mike 1" street 45° to clear the PTO then a short nipple. I use a longer nipple and cut it off so the clamped on muffler isn't on threads. The steel lock nuts hold things in place and seems to make things a bit easier if I want to unscrew things. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Wilbur 6 #16 Posted Sunday at 04:07 PM 7 minutes ago, Racinbob said: 1" street 45° to clear the PTO then a short nipple. I use a longer nipple and cut it off so the clamped on muffler isn't on threads. The steel lock nuts hold things in place and seems to make things a bit easier if I want to unscrew things. Thanks, I'll stop and grab that stuff today, nice and easy. Mike 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
artfull dodger 440 #17 Posted Sunday at 09:24 PM I would go with the Gravely muffler that Eric B did. Add a small turnout elbow to keep from sooting the hood paint. I highy doubt your bride will enjoy the stack with the exhaust wafing back from it, along with sound and the burn hazard. The little Nelson for the Gravely is pretty quiet and facing forward with a turnout will direct the rest of the noise away and to the side of the driver. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Wilbur 6 #18 Posted Sunday at 09:45 PM So I now have the exaust on and with the exception of a proper clamp it's good for now. she's just a work tractor for the shop. I serviced it while it was inside since unless I have to fix somthing it will stay outside until next winter for an oil change. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
artfull dodger 440 #19 Posted Sunday at 09:53 PM For those that want to make a stack or put a nice chrome turnout on this Gravely muffler. Chrome sink drain pipe makes great stack top pipe. you can get them fairly long then cut to a height you like, Same with just making a nice 90' turnout to prevent sooting the hood when pointed forward. Not sure I would leave a muffler pointed straight down, that will kick up dust and stuff when running. Can burn grass if parked with the engine running high RPM in one place for more than a min or two. Looks great otherwise. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Wilbur 6 #20 Posted Sunday at 09:58 PM 1 minute ago, artfull dodger said: Not sure I would leave a muffler pointed straight down Not planing on it, Im going to redirect it to the side so I don't catch anything in the ground on fire. For now it runs perfect and sounds better than ever. The only reason I had to bring it in was it wouldn't start. Water in the bowl and after I cleaned it the bowl had a bunch of pinholes from the water. The exaust was broken when I bought it 7 or 8 years ago. Mike 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
artfull dodger 440 #21 Posted Sunday at 09:59 PM (edited) I hate pinholes, be it the gas tank or the bowl. Glad you got her running! Edited Sunday at 10:00 PM by artfull dodger 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,393 #22 Posted Sunday at 10:19 PM 6 minutes ago, Mike Wilbur said: Not planing on it, Im going to redirect it to the side so I don't catch anything in the ground on fire. For now it runs perfect and sounds better than ever. The only reason I had to bring it in was it wouldn't start. Water in the bowl and after I cleaned it the bowl had a bunch of pinholes from the water. The exaust was broken when I bought it 7 or 8 years ago. Mike I first installed mine horizontal without the 45 because I preferred the look but discovered the error of my ways when I went to install the PTO linkage Obviously I couldn't go horizontal with the one 45 and a second 45 pushed it out too far so pointed down it was. Now I like it better. I assure you there's zero chance of too much heat on the ground. I've seen guys pipe and exit them under the tractor with no issues. Mine is pointed towards the tie rod but the muffler exit is still about 12" away. It never gets too hot. This tractor is dedicated to the blade and I use it in the weeds and woods a lot. Zero worries. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites