Wheelhorse dash rivets

[fourwheelhorseman 349]

Can anyone give me the size of a c series dash rivet? I really don’t want to use bolts or screws. 

[Mickwhitt 4,839]

Rivets? Not sure what you mean, to secure the dash plate to the actual tower?

Mine had screws fitted when I got it, not sure if they were factory original.

Mick

[ebinmaine 69,349]

[ri702bill 8,637]

I believe he is talking about the choke & throttle mechanisms...

[Handy Don 12,902]

12 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

I believe he is talking about the choke & throttle mechanisms...

If so, rivets are darned tricky to install at just the right amount of force without calibrated equipment. I sure wouldn’t try it.

[ebinmaine 69,349]

22 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

If so, rivets are darned tricky to install at just the right amount of force without calibrated equipment. I sure wouldn’t try it.

 

 

These particular ones would be OK to do. 

Steel dash panel with steel cable bases. Flat to flat surface match. 

Good ole fashioned simple pop rivet gun would work.  

 

 

[rmaynard 15,768]

The C-Series used different methods of fastening the throttle and choke controls to the steel back plate. Some parts diagrams show a #10-24 screw and a KEP nut. Others show a pop-rivet. Most that I have seen used a pop-rivet. Seeing that a #10 screw is 3/16" diameter, I'd assume the pop-rivet is also 3/16"

Edited Thursday at 11:49 PM by rmaynard

[fourwheelhorseman 349]

55 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

The C-Series used different methods of fastening the throttle and choke controls to the steel back plate. Some parts diagrams show a #10-24 screw and a KEP nut. Others show a pop-rivet. Most that I have seen used a pop-rivet. Seeing that a #10 screw is 3/16" diameter, I'd assume the pop-rivet is also 3/16"

I do beleive your correct although I miced the expanded rivet and it looked to be .2235 , but that’s expanded slightly. I’ll look into those tomorrow. Thanks!

Edited Friday at 12:44 AM by fourwheelhorseman

[Mickwhitt 4,839]

I used countersunk stainless steel set screws on my controls, they look very good. But pop rivets will work, but I wouldn't use them because of the possibility of them coming loose or corroding. 

[Racinbob 11,393]

As mentioned the rivets are 3/16". I've used button head stainless 10-32 several times. This Dino dash has the rivets and I saw no need to change them but the rivets will get black paint to look better.

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 69,349]

Just out of curiosity,  is this a certain level, type, time range of production? Or two different assembly stations at the factory? 

Any ideas?

I've seen mostly screwed on dashes up here but most of my tractors had been disassembled prior to my ownership.  

 

 

 

[Racinbob 11,393]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Just out of curiosity,  is this a certain level, type, time range of production? Or two different assembly stations at the factory? 

Any ideas?

I've seen mostly screwed on dashes up here but most of my tractors had been disassembled prior to my ownership.  

 

I haven't got a clue Eric. The one I pictured is Dino, a 78 C-121. I don't remember if I've come across rivets before. If I did I probably drilled them out to make it easier to work on. This one really didn't need work so they are staying. 

[rmaynard 15,768]

Just to clarify. The rivets or screws are not meant to attach the plastic part of the dash to the metal back-plate. Many of the plastic dash plate have a piece of double-sided tape on the back to keep it aligned during the final assembly. The entire dash assembly is finally attached to the dash housing with a 102168 black panhead sheet metal screw into a 5442 speed nut.

[Lee1977 6,898]

 Be sure to used aluminum pop rivets, it takes a lot of force to install steel pop rivets. You will be less likely to brake the plastic dash panel if you used the #10 -24 and nut.

[Racinbob 11,393]

Note what rmaynard said. The rivets don’t hold the plastic plates or even touch it. I really don't think aluminum would hold too well.