Handy Don 12,956 #26 Posted Monday at 01:08 AM 5 hours ago, ElectricApprentice123 said: Critter waste products can be especially corrosive 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,976 #27 Posted Monday at 02:24 AM 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: Critter waste products can be especially corrosive I usually drill a little drain hole in the bottom of my Kohler tins. Never understood why they didn't come with one. Mouse pee or wash water, it just sits down in the bottom and rusts away... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,035 #28 Posted Monday at 04:14 AM @ElectricApprentice123 At the top of the Tranmission Section there is a pinned thread that has part numbers for all the seals and bearings. They are standard parts that you can get from any bearing supply. One of our vendors Wheel Horse Parts and More also has them for a good price. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,480 #29 Posted 17 hours ago You got a heck of a deal! The plow blade and the RD mower deck are worth $200 all day! There is safety switches in the PTO lever, on the brake and on the seat. Great find!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ElectricApprentice123 22 #30 Posted 17 hours ago On 2/2/2025 at 11:14 PM, oliver2-44 said: @ElectricApprentice123 At the top of the Tranmission Section there is a pinned thread that has part numbers for all the seals and bearings. They are standard parts that you can get from any bearing supply. One of our vendors Wheel Horse Parts and More also has them for a good price. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ElectricApprentice123 22 #31 Posted 17 hours ago I was able to spend a little time on it last night. I’m able to get 12 volts to the solinoid but nothing coming out of it, with no “control” voltage pulling the solinoid in. (Also proven the starter is good by jumping it out) Hopefully I will have some time tonight to dig into it. I was able to get the engine covers bolted back on and the stale fuel drained out of the carb. Planning on replumbing the fuel system and seeing if I can get her to jump to life before worrying about all the other repairs like the transmission seals/oil and the never ending list of small repairs I’ve noticed. Several of the flat tip screws (such as the ones that hold the belt guard or the shifter plate on) seem to have the head wallowed out so I can’t get a hold of them with a #4 flathead. Any tips to get them out without breaking out the cutting wheel? Thanks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,368 #32 Posted 15 hours ago 2 hours ago, ElectricApprentice123 said: I was able to spend a little time on it last night. I’m able to get 12 volts to the solinoid but nothing coming out of it, with no “control” voltage pulling the solinoid in. (Also proven the starter is good by jumping it out) Hopefully I will have some time tonight to dig into it. I was able to get the engine covers bolted back on and the stale fuel drained out of the carb. Planning on replumbing the fuel system and seeing if I can get her to jump to life before worrying about all the other repairs like the transmission seals/oil and the never ending list of small repairs I’ve noticed. Several of the flat tip screws (such as the ones that hold the belt guard or the shifter plate on) seem to have the head wallowed out so I can’t get a hold of them with a #4 flathead. Any tips to get them out without breaking out the cutting wheel? Thanks! Dremel the slot a bit deeper? Impact screwdriver? I have a few "demolition screwdrivers" that have a hardened tip and full shank that I can set in and hammer on while i turn. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ElectricApprentice123 22 #33 Posted 13 hours ago 1 hour ago, RED-Z06 said: Dremel the slot a bit deeper? Impact screwdriver? I have a few "demolition screwdrivers" that have a hardened tip and full shank that I can set in and hammer on while i turn. That’s my #4 lol. Didn’t think about the dremel idea though. Once they’re out I’m going to replace them along with the missing dash hardware. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 9,218 #34 Posted 13 hours ago (edited) When replacing the fuel line I use a double barbed 1/4” fitting to push into the old line and the other end into the new one. Check to see if the old line is fastened anywhere, remove fasteners and then just pull the new line in while pulling out the old. Works like a charm and saves time trying to route the new line in.Glad to see you are saving that tractor. My C-175 was in similar condition last year at this time and after five months of on and off work it looks like this. Edited 12 hours ago by c-series don 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,410 #35 Posted 12 hours ago 5 minutes ago, c-series don said: When replacing the fuel line I use a double barbed 1/4” fitting to push into the old line and the other end into the new one. Check to see if the old line is fastened anywhere, remove fasteners and then just pull the new line in while pulling out the old. Works like a charm and saves time trying to route the new line in.Glad to see you are saving that tractor 👍🏻 That's a slick move. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,035 #36 Posted 12 hours ago 9 minutes ago, c-series don said: When replacing the fuel line I use a double barbed 1/4” fitting to push into the old line and the other end into the new one. Check to see if the old line is fastened anywhere, remove fasteners and then just pull the new line in while pulling out the old. Works like a charm and saves time trying to route the new line in.Glad to see you are saving that tractor 👍🏻 I do similar and just duct tape the new line to the old line. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 824 #37 Posted 12 hours ago @c-series don that is one beautiful 175. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
