Kenneth R Cluley 552 #1 Posted January 27 I have a 1969 Charger 12. The trigger was bad so I converted it to battery ignition several years ago. Now having charging issue. I had not used for a few months and when i was attempting to start something shorted out on steering shaft behind console. It was the B+ rectifier wire. Replaced all damaged wiring and got running but not charging. Used a couple days on driveway repair by charging battery at night. A C output on rectifier is just over 20 volts @ high RPM. Stator shows continuity and proper resistance 0.1 / 0..2 ohms but not enough voltage to charge battery. My stator is still the old magneto style that goes under flywheel. I believe it has coils on stator for spark. I believe this is a 10 amp stator? Its a K301 model 8 ser#DO44400, spec #17147C. I am trying to figure out how to replace the stator as I believe it is bad. My question is do I use the #237877 10 amp as original and just not use the coil output? I believe I would have to change the flywheel in order to use any other stator. The size is smaller and the magnet assembly fits inside the flywheel, actually one piece fastened to inside of flywheel. Seeking advice/confirmation on the correct repair/replacement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,773 #2 Posted January 27 If your stator is putting out 20 volts as you stated, my money would be on the B+ wire shorting out fried the diodes in the regulator/rectifier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,457 #3 Posted January 27 11 hours ago, Kenneth R Cluley said: A C output on rectifier is just over 20 volts @ high RPM. Stator shows continuity and proper resistance 0.1 / 0..2 ohms but not enough voltage to charge battery. Are you sure your AC volt meter is accurate? Are you measuring the stator output with the voltage regulator plug disconnected? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,090 #4 Posted January 27 Are you sure about the engine spec# is it maybe #47147. Variation for Stator is 509 (breakerless) was 10 amp (item 51) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth R Cluley 552 #5 Posted January 27 (edited) The number could be a 4. lots of paint and a ding in that area. It is definitely the item 51 in diagram. I checked voltage with 3 different meters. seems odd to me that it is showing this voltage reading, and yes it was disconnected. i changed the voltage regulator and still no difference. It is definitely the output of stator. Thought i might find a magnet missing or damaged but all in place. Starts out around 10 volts at idle and increases to just over 20 at 3600 RPM. Looked at wiring for possible bad spot or corroded connections but all looks good Could I even find a #237877 stator? Definitely a 4 just went out and checked. I was moving it out of storage and turned the steering wheels several times, then when i turned on switch to try to start the smoke started rolling out from behind dash. I am upset at myself for being "sloppy" with wiring in that area. The rectifier B+ was laying on top of steering shaft and rotation wore through insulation. Could have prevented with a .03 cent wire tie. Edited January 27 by Kenneth R Cluley Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth R Cluley 552 #6 Posted January 27 So I guess my question for you all is can i just replace this stator with a 15/20 amp such as #237878 without changing flywheel? I realize I must match regulator to stator. Or must I also change all components to use the 15/20 AMP stator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,090 #7 Posted January 27 I do not think so. The Flywheel part number for the 10 amp breakerless is different tat 15 amp system. The 15 amp stator is bigger diameter You can see the difference one in front is from a 10 amp breakerless 15 amp regular and breakerless in the back. I do not have a 10 amp regular stator to compare 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth R Cluley 552 #8 Posted January 27 I guess that was my gut feeling. Thanks for all your help, now the decision as to which direction to go for repair. Common sense telling me to go with 15 AMP conversion. I guess I'll let it simmer a while and maybe it will come to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,907 #9 Posted January 27 Not positive about this, but have you checked stator resistance between each lead and ground? I’m suspicious that you’ve got a short in one side of the stator wiring. Testing across the leads would still give a reasonable Ω reading from one half of the wiring. If I’m right, one lead to ground will be 0Ω (or very close). Doesn’t solve your problem, of course, unless you want to tackle rewinding a stator. Only @Tractorhead has, to my memory, posted how to do that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,090 #10 Posted January 27 I have a 10 amp stator for a battey ignition. Looks to be new. Don't remember how or why I got it. Reads about .6 ohms across the leads and no short from either lead to ground. The .6 is higher than the 15 amp spec...but Kohler doesn't show a 10 amp resistance spec.... also the Kohler manual say for 10 amp stator 20 Volts AC and up is ok.... Another note part numbers for a stator can vary based just on the length of the leads and type connector.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth R Cluley 552 #11 Posted January 27 I guess i was looking at the 15/20 troubleshooting chart. I think i will tear into wire connections at stator like Don said just to be sure, what have i got to lose? Thanks for all the help, was just looking at available flywheels for K301 to make 15/20 stator work. Can't find numbers for most items, even Kohler engine site has no listings for stators or flywheels. Don't understand how 20 volts a/c will give you enough when converted to DC. Half wave only @10 volts? I am not electrical engineer or anything but pretty familiar with rectifier circuits. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,907 #12 Posted January 27 (edited) Yep, I get the confusion and you are onto the situation. Rectified full wave 20 VAC (absolute voltage from -10 to +10) with a voltage regulator would surely be adequate to charge a battery. Rectified half wave is a different matter, if it is the wrong half, depending on the VR. If the absolute voltage ranged from 0 to minus 20, that can still show as 20 VAC but, depending on the VR design, might not deliver ANY voltage to a charging circuit. The usual expected stator output goes to 40 VAC with absolute voltage from -20 to +20. Hence why I suspect you are seeing only the wrong half of it. Of course, I could be half out of it here! Edited January 27 by Handy Don 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,773 #13 Posted January 28 Could have fried the Ignition switch.Run a wire from the B+ terminal directly to the + side of the battery after you start it & check the voltage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,161 #14 Posted January 29 Check to make sure you have battery voltage at the B+ terminal of the regulator with the engine not running. Ignition switch may need to be in the RUN position but engine not running. If you do not have battery voltage the path the charge current takes to get to the battery is compromised. Fix that. A side note - the voltage regulators must have battery voltage to turn them on so to speak before they can regulate the stator output. Back in the day when stators were first used Wheel Horse published a service bulletin on the system Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
