50 Dollar Estate Sale Gamble Pays Off

[D_Mac 8,943]

So I told you all I was going to get that Bolens 1256. Well here it is. Turns out everything I had read about the rear end dosnt exist on this one. Hardest part of moving it was prying it off the frozen ground. Frozen solid. 6 foot pry bar and all of my 300 lbs pulling on it finally broke the tires free from the ground. Once it was broke free I noticed I could push it. Soooo we pushed it over to the Snowco trailer and winched it up. I wish I popped the cherry on the Snowco with a WH but oh well. First time for me using it and it worked great. So I get the Bolens home and unloaded it. Still has gas in tank that didnt smell bad. Took spark plug out and wiped it down. Lil spritz of starting fluid. Screwed it back in. Took a spare battery and hooked it up with jumper cables. Turn the gas on and I noticed the petcock leaked some when turned on. Starting cranking it over and it didn't seem to be turning over very quickly. Noticed the belt on the starter was slipping. Also noticed it was a brand spanking new Gates belt. I loosened the starter and pushed it down to tighten the belt. Started cranking it over again and it fired right up. Smoked a little at first but after running awhile it went away. Oil was black but at proper level. So I let it run for a good 10 minutes.  Headlights worked, taillight didn't. It throttled up no problem. Backed off the throttle and idled nice and smooth. So one thing left to do, sat on the seat, stepped on the pedal and off I went. Pressed the pedal back for reverse, no issues. SCORE !!!! Really happy with it. Wish it had a deck or some attachment. So glad i took a chance on it. I'm guessing that both rear tires arnt driving ? Why am I able to push it around? I noticed on the left rear wheel there is a knob to turn but it won't budge. Needs some attention. I'm guess it's turned to lowest traction setting. Please if anyone has any knowledge on these help me out. What I have read online so far dosnt apply. 

Edited January 25 by D_Mac

[ebinmaine 69,741]

@Stepney

Any knowledge on these? 

[Achto 28,194]

2 hours ago, D_Mac said:

Please if anyone has any knowledge on these help me out.

 

No first hand knowledge. Did you get or find the manuals for it?

 

http://domania.us/gts-today/manuals/Bolens-1256-Tractor-OM.pdf

[Handy Don 13,087]

Yes, it is very likely that it is “mostly" one-wheel drive right now, The axle lock’s job is to vary the friction between the wheel and the drive axle. When loosened, the tractor can get pushed because that “free" axle can spin backwards (via the differential pinion gears) while the connected wheel rolls forward. When fully tightened, it is the equivalent standard WH differential.

it sounds like yours is “mostly” loose right now.

Nice grab!

Edited January 26 by Handy Don

[SylvanLakeWH 26,599]

 

Nicely done!!!

[Bar Nuthin 886]

That seat pan looks just like the Wheel Horse 3-piece seat. 

[D_Mac 8,943]

Yeah looks just like one. Says Bolens on it. Not to bad shape. Couple rips but they are in the seams. Might be able to fix them. Seat sits so close to the steering wheel. Hard for us " big" men to get in and out. If it's not to cold tomorrow I will get out there and spend some more time looking it over. I'm curious about the rear axle. Some sort of hitch go on those tabs ? 

[oliver2-44 10,091]

57 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

 I'm curious about the rear axle. Some sort of hitch go on those tabs ? 

Those tabs on the back of the axle are for a 3 point hitch

[Wayne0 716]

Great score! Before I found Wheel Horse, I always wanted a Bolens.

[D_Mac 8,943]

Spent the morning fooling around with the Bolens. Soaked the rear hub with penetrating oil and freed up the "Controlled Differential". It spins freely now. Can't figure out why there is no return when stepping on brake pedal. Then again, who needs brakes anyhow. Just noticed the front tires and wheels don't match but not a big deal. All 4 tires hold air. If I still have it in the spring time I will change drive belts. Hard for me to work on it now in the snow and cold in my driveway. Next I will tighten the hub all the way to engage both wheels and see if it makes any difference when driving and or pushing it around. Still for 50 bucks I'm not complaining.

[Pullstart 63,559]

Nice to see that Wisconsin running!  I have an S12D in the barn

[D_Mac 8,943]

Thanks. It runs really good. Like I said the tractor needs some loving but overall I'm happy I took a chance on it. @Pullstart next road trip you could have 2 in your barn ! I dont know much about these Whiskey engines but they sure sound good.

[peter lena 8,977]

 @ D- MAC terrific score on that ! just a suggestion , have brought back a number of engines , usually run them in on initial  testing on a separate gallon of heavily treated fresh fuel , another thing I do is to add rislone zinc to a  smoking engine , the varnish cleaning effects are  very good , the run in time gets it hot , fresh oil , would also use a multi weight  10-30  oil  for fluency  and chemical  cleaning , have a regular thorough , functional check out ,  I use 4 oz of zinc to  2 qts of oil , on the bottle specs . would also give that a penetrating oil soak down , save patina  , lube  movement areas , especially  choke / throttle cables . those are very stout engines , good luck with it  pete   

[D_Mac 8,943]

Hit a bump in the road. Had it running and driving for like 20 mins the other day. Pulled it into the garage, shut it off. 5 mins later turned the key, nothing. Tried the head lights, nothing. Hmmmmm. Jiggled all the wires behind the key switch, nothing. Unplugged the key switch, cleaned the connectors, nothing. Hmmmmm. Turned the key to on, jumped the solenoid with a pair of channel locks fired right up. Guessing I need a new ignition switch. Looked up the correct one and they want 54 bucks for it. 4 dollars more then I paid for the whole tractor ! Undecided on my next move. I'm afraid changing the connectors around on a cheaper switch would be above my pay grade. Read somewhere someplace of a cheaper key switch that MIGHT work. Anyone have a cheap easy solution besides jumping it with pliers?

[ebinmaine 69,741]

7 hours ago, D_Mac said:

Turned the key to on, jumped the SOLENOID with a pair of channel locks fired right up.

 

Get a test light. See if the ignition switch is putting power TO the solenoid. 

 

7 hours ago, D_Mac said:

Guessing.

 

Good that you asked here. Don't guess.  

 

7 hours ago, D_Mac said:

Anyone have a cheap easy solution besides jumping it with pliers?

 

Do the proper diagnosis. First. 

 

[D_Mac 8,943]

I dont have any testing equipment. I thought that the fact that the head lights didnt even go on as well as the no start that it's the switch. The head lights would turn on with the key in the on position and the tractor not running before.

Edited January 30 by D_Mac

[ebinmaine 69,741]

5 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

I dont have any testing equipment. I thought that the fact that the head lights didnt even go on as well as the no start that it's the switch. The head lights would turn on with the key in the on position and the tractor not running before.

 

 

That being the case you may have a double problem. 

 

Does this tractor have points? Or is it a Magneto type?

[squonk 41,942]

Take this fuse holder apart. Good chance the spring inside is rotted. Bugs get inside those holders too. Seen it many times on tractors that have sat. Works one minute. Then it doesn't. Replace it with a weatherproof fuse holder.

 

[D_Mac 8,943]

Your right Eric. I remembered I had a harbor freight cheap meter in my tool box. Never used it so forgot I had it. According to the diagram the key switch is working properly. I believe it is a breaker less engine. I know little on engines and even less on these wisconsins. It's been so cold here lately and to look at it I have to push it in my driveway. Not to fun working conditions. Guess I will have to check where the safty switches USED to be and see if something came undone. Runs fine when jumped.

Edited January 30 by D_Mac

[Handy Don 13,087]

41 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

Guess I will have to check where the safty switches USED to be and see if something came undone.

Good idea!

[D_Mac 8,943]

@squonk winner winner chicken dinner ! Blown fuse. Replaced and up and running again. Thanks guys. Now I guess I need to know what caused it to blow.

Edited January 30 by D_Mac

[ebinmaine 69,741]

1 hour ago, D_Mac said:

what caused it

 

In all reality Don that could have been quite a few things including vibration, age, corrosion, bad ground is a possibility.

[D_Mac 8,943]

All of which it has.

[D_Mac 8,943]

[Stepney 2,335]

Those Eaton hydros are the only tube frame Bolens to my knowledge you can just push. The old gear drives had a pin almost nobody would normally know about and they remain locked in place due to the worm drive. Otherwise, as said above tighten the large nut on the left for more grip, slack it for less. The tractor is meant to be run with the nut backed off normally. Running it tight will wreck the bronze cone bushings in the hub over time. 
Im not sure if that particular TRA12 has the breakerless ignition or not, I cant see it enough. Points box is right under by the carb if it's there. If it is a breakerless engine, check for burning on the back of the key switch or any rubbing between the coil to key wire and other voltage sources.. I cooked one of those due to a faulty switch on a 1256 I owned years ago, it wasn't a cheap date... this was something of a fluke with both the SSI Tecumseh and Wisconsin tractors. Absolutely never send voltage up the coil to key wire of an SSI machine. Trouble is the coils otherwise look identical. Seen a lot of those machines wrecked that way, the parts generally outvalue the rig. 
The tubes are a unique machine, cant beat that score. They're great when they're working right.