Handy Don 12,974 #26 Posted January 20 (edited) 55 minutes ago, Greg Cullison said: Not too much trouble turning although weights would have been nice and made it better. The problem was that when I was going straight, with the blade angled, one side was up and the other was down.... Any ideas? Balance issue? It’s the geometry. Only when the plow frame is perfectly parallel to the ground will the entire blade edge be on the ground when angled. If the frame is higher in the front, then the leading end of the angled plow will be higher than the trailing edge (and vice versa). Measure it against very flat floor. Most dozer-style plows aim for the frame to be parallel to the ground when the blade is lowered for plowing. Edited January 20 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg Cullison 76 #27 Posted January 20 I did happen to measure when working with the rubber and it was eating 1/8" I was pretty happy with that... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,974 #28 Posted January 20 (edited) 11 minutes ago, Greg Cullison said: I did happen to measure when working with the rubber and it was eating 1/8" I was pretty happy with that... ⅛ over what distance? The entire length of the frame from the rear bracket to just behind the quadrant? If yes, and you still have one inch of height difference fore-aft on the angled blade, then something is caca with the angling quadrant and the pivot is not absolutely perpendicular to the ground. Assuming the quadrant pivot pin is perpendicular to the frame, a 48” plow angled 30º spans 24” longitudinally from the leading end to the trailing end. It doesn’t take much of a front-to-back frame angle from 0º to put the two ends at different heights. Edited January 20 by Handy Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
