peter lena 8,933 #26 Posted January 18 @Red Stallion PICTURE REFERENCE , FOR YOUR ISSUE , metal shop , would have hole punch , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,445 #27 Posted January 18 Purple Power and a garden hose will do miracles. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,933 #28 Posted January 18 @Red Stallion while we are on the OPPORTUNITY STAGE , penetrating oil or mineral oil , on dry chalky , faded paint , helps feed the base of that , allow it to almost dry , sun heat will also draw it into paint , then rub it down with a clean oil wet soft cloth , if it starts to shine thru , like a 6" electric palm buffer , with cleaner wax , done a lot of that . pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #29 Posted January 18 I'm doing an ever increasingly inaccurately named 5 pronged trident approach: 1) Spray on penetrating oil all over the gunk and let it sit for 30 mins 2) Spray it with a very light caustic. In Australia we have a kitchen cleaning product called Koh, which is fantastic. 3) Give it a scrub 4) Foam it with degreaser. Let it sit 5) Rinse off with garden hose Repeating this many times over. Its working a treat... I didnt even realise there is supposed to be a gap between the oil pan and the engine base plate! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #30 Posted January 18 7 hours ago, peter lena said: @Red Stallion PICTURE REFERENCE , FOR YOUR ISSUE , metal shop , would have hole punch , pete I have a mill, so I will probably jig it up to cut slots in mine, for no other reason than I want to use my mill for something! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,445 #31 Posted January 18 44 minutes ago, Red Stallion said: I didnt even realise there is supposed to be a gap between the oil pan and the engine base plate! Clean that gap well, there are shallow fins on the oil pan and air going thru there will lower the oil temperature. As you are learning, Onans die from neglect. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 819 #32 Posted January 18 7 hours ago, lynnmor said: Purple Power and a garden hose will do miracles. I second the purple power it did a great job cleaning up all the dirt and grease off my B100, worked especially well on the transaxle and the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #33 Posted January 18 17 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Clean that gap well, there are shallow fins on the oil pan and air going thru there will lower the oil temperature. As you are learning, Onans die from neglect. Yeah, I've got a scrapper in there to get most of the goop out once I realised the gap was there. Now concentrating all the spraying and cleaning in there since the water can flow through. That's when I saw the little fins, which are obviously to cool the oil, so now I'll feverishly attacking that bit! I'm sure that some electrical bits are now toast, like the starter, but trading off a dead starting for a clean engine is a good flip of the coin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #34 Posted January 18 And this is all just around the engine.... The back end still needs a good wash down as well! Admittedly its not as caked on, but there is still a lot of dust and mud around the hydro filter and pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,445 #35 Posted January 19 3 hours ago, Red Stallion said: And this is all just around the engine.... The back end still needs a good wash down as well! Admittedly its not as caked on, but there is still a lot of dust and mud around the hydro filter and pump. Often debris builds up under the gas tank and holds water rusting things. It is best to pull the tank and do the degreaser garden hose thing in there. There is one bolt right above the hydro filter that is difficult so the best time to do the cleaning is while the filter is off. While the back end is apart and the console covers are off, oil all moving joints with one exception, the drag on the cam plate should be kept clean and dry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #36 Posted January 19 I gave that cam plate a drop of slideway oil. (Are we talking about the cam follower on top of the hyrdo pump?). At first I wasn't planning on pulling the tank, but now I've started poking around, I think it will be 100 times quicker to clean with the tank off. I swear this cleaning thing is like triming your own side burns. You jusr get deeper the more you look. Riding the other mechanical horse today. Its been a messy couple of days cleaning and decided to take the day off. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,445 #37 Posted January 19 1 hour ago, Red Stallion said: I gave that cam plate a drop of slideway oil. (Are we talking about the cam follower on top of the hyrdo pump?). At first I wasn't planning on pulling the tank, but now I've started poking around, I think it will be 100 times quicker to clean with the tank off. The cam plate has the zig zag slot in it. There is a 9/16” nut on top that adjusts the drag to keep it in place. Friction washers are above and below that plate and they need to be clean and dry to provide the drag. You tighten the 9/16 nut till it takes 6 to 7 pounds of force to get the lever to move it. With oil reducing the drag, you would need to keep your hand on the lever all the time. With a gas tank off I have found serious deep rust in the seat support and had to remove that for sand blasting and painting. No motorcycle weather here, snow is expected tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #38 Posted January 19 I kinda had the opposite problem at first. So much oxidation and dirt that it would get caught in the cam, and the lever would jam, so when you put your foot on the brake, the other cam/follower would also jam up and thr brake couldn't tighten. Back off the nut a little, and a drop of slide oil, and it would happy pop out when nudged. But at least I know if it keeps popping out into neutral, clean and tighten that bolt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,445 #39 Posted January 19 11 hours ago, Red Stallion said: I kinda had the opposite problem at first. So much oxidation and dirt that it would get caught in the cam, and the lever would jam, so when you put your foot on the brake, the other cam/follower would also jam up and thr brake couldn't tighten. Back off the nut a little, and a drop of slide oil, and it would happy pop out when nudged. But at least I know if it keeps popping out into neutral, clean and tighten that bolt. There are wave washers and hardened flat washers on both sides of the plate. I have had to remove that hardware to clean or replace. The flat washers usually wear and don't grip as well, often they can be ground flat again. I have seen new cam plates for a fair price if it is too worn, don't know the current situation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #40 Posted Saturday at 01:55 AM Time for some half assed painting! Decided to pull the muffler, brush it off and give it some paint. Once I pulled the muffler off, I found a whole heap more gunk to clean out. I think I'm starting to find the end of my tether with all the scrubbing and cleaning. Ordered the oil gasket, and the filter grommet. Once all of this is back together, my new oil filter should have arrived and I can give it fresh blood. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,445 #41 Posted Saturday at 08:24 AM 6 hours ago, Red Stallion said: Time for some half assed painting! Decided to pull the muffler, brush it off and give it some paint. Once I pulled the muffler off, I found a whole heap more gunk to clean out. I think I'm starting to find the end of my tether with all the scrubbing and cleaning. Ordered the oil gasket, and the filter grommet. Once all of this is back together, my new oil filter should have arrived and I can give it fresh blood. Look to see if those heat shields contact the intake manifold, they can cut a groove and possible cause a leak. Often I cut a bit of material off the shields so they cannot touch the manifold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #42 Posted Saturday at 08:26 AM And the muffler is back on! Took a bit longer than planned after I dropped one of the header washers down the gap and it landed behind the oil filter. So did an unpromptu oil drop as well. But took the opportunity to blast the last of the gunk out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #43 Posted Saturday at 08:32 AM 7 minutes ago, lynnmor said: Look to see if those heat shields contact the intake manifold, they can cut a groove and possible cause a leak. Often I cut a bit of material off the shields so they cannot touch the manifold. I couldn't see any marks on the intake manifold that look concerning. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,445 #44 Posted Saturday at 08:39 AM 4 minutes ago, Red Stallion said: I couldn't see any marks on the intake manifold that look concerning. Right here is one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #45 Posted Saturday at 09:16 AM (edited) I'll pop that one off tomorrow and double check. Unfortunately this pick has the lead drapped over it. Edited Saturday at 09:19 AM by Red Stallion Added photo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,902 #46 Posted Saturday at 04:24 PM 7 hours ago, Red Stallion said: couldn't see any marks on the intake manifold that look concerning. I usually run a small bead of silicone sealer around the seam of the intake manifold whenever I remove one. It doesn't require much, just use a small amount on your finger. Several of my old Onans had the dreaded "full choke or it hunts" issue, and none had it after sealing the intake. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #47 Posted Sunday at 03:07 AM Can anyone confirm the size of this screw? I'm not great at identifying imperial threads Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,760 #48 Posted Sunday at 03:15 AM I would just take it to the harware store, they should have one of these by all the bolts & screws.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Stallion 66 #49 Posted Sunday at 03:19 AM I need to buy one of them because 7/10 they never actually have the size what I need 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,445 #50 Posted Tuesday at 02:12 AM They are 10-24 X 3/8 long button heads, I use stainless steel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites