Chipping away at my Stallion

[Red Stallion 76]

After a short hiatus waiting for my over priced gaskets to arrive, I'm back at it.

 

Looking to replace that oil gasket behind the filter mount. Do I have to pull off the flywheel yo access the bottom bolt?

[Handy Don 13,114]

27 minutes ago, Red Stallion said:

Do I have to pull off the flywheel yo access the bottom bolt?

Good question! When I had the P218’s tins off for cleaning I was awful glad there wasn’t any leakage at the joint!

[Red Stallion 76]

I think its inevitable that I have to pull the fly wheel... because why design something easy to maintain when instead we can put a bolt behind a thing notorious for seizing onto shafts in nearly every application around the world.

[Red Stallion 76]

I just dived in and went for it after a few squirts of penetrant, over cranked the harmonic puiler with a rattle gun, and it popped clean off!

 

Also meant I could give it a good scrub and clean up in behind there, and scrapped out the dust behind the fly wheel.

 

New oil seal, new filter, and now filter grommet!

[Red Stallion 76]

Starting the slow process of re-assembly, and regretting not having enough photos of how it all went together before hand.

 

I'll get some photos tomorrow with the shroud back on as it appears to have a massive gap near the oil filter between the two tins

[Red Stallion 76]

Can someone remind me as to where this earth gets attached?

[Red Stallion 76]

Oh and the shroud has definitely snugged up tighter now that the screw are in. But there is still a small gap, should I worry about that?

[lynnmor 7,499]

There is a notch in the bottom of the rubber to clear the drain tin, do you have that aligned correctly?

[Red Stallion 76]

30 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

There is a notch in the bottom of the rubber to clear the drain tin, do you have that aligned correctly?

YES! I know exactly what you mean, been trying to work out what the orientation is because its obviously supposed to be there.

[lynnmor 7,499]

1 hour ago, Red Stallion said:

Can someone remind me as to where this earth gets attached?

If that was added by a previous owner he may have wanted a better ground for the voltage regulator and that is a good idea.  The regulator gets its ground connection with the mounting bolt and yours appears to be mounted wrong.

[Red Stallion 76]

Can you elborate on that?

This is the picture of how it was mounted before and now.

 

[cleat 6,868]

This is how I install mine.

And you can see the ground wire on the mounting bolt as well.

 

Edited yesterday at 03:23 AM by cleat

[Red Stallion 76]

Ripper! I can see that is earthed into that bolt holding the square whosit.

 

I ended up earthing it under the bolt that holds the shroud to engine block. That should be strong enough.

Edited yesterday at 04:42 AM by Red Stallion

[lynnmor 7,499]

The heavy battery cable grounds the engine just fine.  The wire to the voltage regulator mounting bolt assures that rust, paint and dirt are bypassed and you have a good solid ground.  Yes, the voltage regulator case is part of the circuit.  The photo posted by Cleat shows the proper installation.

[Handy Don 13,114]

3 hours ago, lynnmor said:

The heavy battery cable grounds the engine just fine.  The wire to the voltage regulator mounting bolt assures that rust, paint and dirt are bypassed and you have a good solid ground.  Yes, the voltage regulator case is part of the circuit.  The photo posted by Cleat shows the proper installation.

12v is not enough to overcome poor connections anywhere in a complete circuit. That includes grounds! 

[Red Stallion 76]

8 hours ago, lynnmor said:

The heavy battery cable grounds the engine just fine.  The wire to the voltage regulator mounting bolt assures that rust, paint and dirt are bypassed and you have a good solid ground.  Yes, the voltage regulator case is part of the circuit.  The photo posted by Cleat shows the proper installation.

 

Roger that...

I thought you meant my actual regulator was installed incorrectly (and I was confusing the regulator with the distributor), which didn't make a lot of sense because I haven't taken it out.

After seeing Cleat's photos, I checked my photos again, and I've taken that screw out at some point, which suggests that I did indeed have it wired correctly before dismantling it all.

Edited 13 hours ago by Red Stallion

[lynnmor 7,499]

7 hours ago, Red Stallion said:

 

Roger that...

I thought you meant my actual regulator was installed incorrectly (and I was confusing the regulator with the distributor), which didn't make a lot of sense because I haven't taken it out.

After seeing Cleat's photos, I checked my photos again, and I've taken that screw out at some point, which suggests that I did indeed have it wired correctly before dismantling it all.

You have an ignition coil with two outputs, it is not a distributor.  My question is ; how did you remove the tins without removing the ignition coil?  No wonder you are having problems getting the tins aligned.

[Red Stallion 76]

Engineering magic!

 

I didnt take off the end tins, only the main shroud, and the red sides. The coil I unbolted from the shroud and left it hanging.

 

Once I spun the grommet around, and put the screws in, the tins are aligned again.

Edited 5 hours ago by Red Stallion

[Red Stallion 76]

Just for some joy, and to feel like the last 2 months haven't been a waste, I wanted to give it a quick fire up to make sure it still works, and to hear the mighty roar.

 

Swapped the earth over as instructed above. Put the fully charged battery back in. Turned the key.

 

Click-click

 

Check all my wires, check the earths, check the fuses.

 

Click-click.

 

Multi meter comes out tracing out voltage, nothing getting past the relay, but shorting out the starter terminals turned it over.

 

Starting to get sad that maybe I've flooded out the relay with all the washing...

Then I remembered that I gave all the safety switches some love so they actually work now, and I still had the seat pan off, and the gear stick plate off.

Put all of those switches back in, and pressed them down, turn the switch and off it roared!

Also the adjustments made to the idle means it actually idles now when before it was digital and either on or off!

Noticed a particularly loud knocking sound, but not sure if its a tin hitting something or probably a valve needing adjustment... problem for amother day.

 

All that's left now is to finish repainting the panels, and mount the new seat. I will finally have a horse ready for working again. Starting to get excited now!