Chipping away at my Stallion

[Red Stallion 51]

I thought I would start a dedicated thread where I can put all my questions, and document my restoration journey. And also ask the brain trust for advice and guidance as I go.

 

I posted in another thread, and was quickly advised that because I live in Australia, I should consider the mod to remove the tins and and increase airflow around back cylinder.

Are the tins people referring to, the heat shield looking things around the cylinder head?

 

I have pulled off all the panels, and plan to get them blasted and then repaint.

Then it needs a good bath and it has a lot of build up of dirty and lawn clippings.

 

[Red Stallion 51]

But this is my starting point!

 

I've had it for about a year, and stripped the carbs, replaced the rubber, and its now starting after a couple of cranks.

[lynnmor 7,390]

24 minutes ago, Red Stallion said:

I thought I would start a dedicated thread where I can put all my questions, and document my restoration journey. And also ask the brain trust for advice and guidance as I go.

 

I posted in another thread, and was quickly advised that because I live in Australia, I should consider the mod to remove the tins and and increase airflow around back cylinder.

Are the tins people referring to, the heat shield looking things around the cylinder head?

 

I have pulled off all the panels, and plan to get them blasted and then repaint.

Then it needs a good bath and it has a lot of build up of dirty and lawn clippings.

 

That is just the tip of the iceberg, the bulk of the tins are on the opposite side.  Don't confuse the engine tins with the belt guard.  It is obvious that you have an oil leak issue, find the source and repair that, perhaps it is the crankshaft seal behind the PTO clutch.

[953 nut 56,214]

36 minutes ago, Red Stallion said:

I should consider the mod to remove the tins and and increase airflow around back cylinder.

Removing the heat shields around the cylinders is done for cleaning of the cooling fins on the cylinders. The "engine tins" direct airflow from the flywheel fan to both cylinders and the engine should not be run without them in place.

40 minutes ago, Red Stallion said:

ask the brain trust

             Good One, do you have any other jokes you would wish to post.        

[Red Stallion 51]

I'll have a closer look tomorrow at it, but when you say tins, is it those heat shield looking things bolted to the head? They look like baffles to direct the airflow coming off the black shroud?

 

In another thread I was advised to replace the oil seals on the filter. Trying to source them in Australia at the moment.

[Red Stallion 51]

3 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

 

             Good One, do you have any other jokes you would wish to post.        

 

"I'll just fix this one thing. Should be quick and easy..."

[kpinnc 12,851]

1 hour ago, Red Stallion said:

when you say tins, is it those heat shield looking things bolted to the head? They look like baffles to direct the airflow coming off the black shroud?

 

The mention of tins refers to the engine covers only I think. None of that needs modification and should all be in place when the engine is running. And yes that includes the baffles on the backside of the cylinders. 

 

The oil filter grommet I mentioned on the other thread just seals in the airflow from the flywheel and assists in cooling. 

[Ed Kennell 39,278]

2 hours ago, Red Stallion said:

I thought I would start a dedicated thread

A little late, but thank you.

Engine tins, shrouds, heat shields, call it what you like.     This is the ductwork that directs the cooling air over the engine cooling fins.   Unfortunately the flywheel fan also sucks up grass clippings and blows them across the cooling fins where they become stuck if there is any leaking oil on the fins.

Remove the ductwork

Locate and repair any oil leaks..look closely around the oil filter base plate

Clean the fins..do not paint

Remove the heads and decarbon the chamber

Set the valves

Seal the oil filter to the duct work with the grommet or if not available make your own with a peel and stick door insulation.

Does venting the belt guard improve air flow across the rear cylinder      But it will not restrict it

 

I do not use my 520 or any twin engine tractor for mowing.   IMO they are inefficient using excessive fuel that is converted to heat instead of HP.

I only use 10 and 12 HP singles for mowing and dedicate the the 520 to winter snow removal.  It excels in this duty using all that heat to warm the cab.

 

              Just my      based on my limited experience.

 

                         

[peter lena 8,888]

@Red Stallion  https://www.pinterest.com/pin/825918019143015647/sent/?invite_code=743cfcc687b0465d9e603e494831c374&sender=839077111732976976&sfo=1  learned long ago to never count on a poor original choice , these lugs and made up related grounding  wire to frame  / engine / battery  set up , ensure electrical  bolt down , like an electrical  chemical enhancement , at bolt down point , very easy to  enhance these areas ,  local H/W  store  probably has them in stock / or related  BOX STORE , pete

Edited 9 hours ago by peter lena
wrong response

[Red Stallion 51]

Slowly working my way through the low hanging fruit.

Starting with a bowl full of prunes to clean out a pile of clippings and dirt from around the gear stick/brake mechanism. Now the brakes work, as well as the park brake!

 

Started pulling off my tin, but the bolt under the petrol filter is going to need a ring spanner... one of those pesky non-netric kinds.

 

And I think I get what you mean about the oil filter gasket! The seal around the filter body to the shroud. Not the seal between the filter face and the engine block.

 

Can someone tell me if the oil filter for the engine is the same and the oil filter for the hydro? A complete fluid swap is on the cards soon.

[kpinnc 12,851]

3 hours ago, Red Stallion said:

And I think I get what you mean about the oil filter gasket! The seal around the filter body to the shroud. Not the seal between the filter face and the engine block.

 

Can someone tell me if the oil filter for the engine is the same and the oil filter for the hydro? A complete fluid swap is on the cards soon.

 

Correct on the oil filter seal. 

 

No, the filter for the transmission and engine are not the same. 

 

The transmission uses a Napa 1410, or equivalent. It's important to note this is a hydraulic filter with no bypass valve. 

 

The engine oil filter has several options. It's a good idea to get the longer filter whatever version you buy. It seals better with the grommet for airflow, and is much easier to install and remove. 

[Red Stallion 51]

Thanks I started to read up about oil filters and how the back one doesn't have the check valve, and the front one people have listed the modern equivalent.

 

 

[Red Stallion 51]

Finally got the main shroud off, and it was covered it dust, mud, spider eggs, grass, and everything else.

 

Going to give it a liberal bathing over the next few days with lower pressure water. Bit of a risk on the electrics, but there is too much caked on crud to scrap off

[Ed Kennell 39,278]

3 hours ago, Red Stallion said:

filter face and the engine block.

Looks like your OK on the oil filter and the need to seal the can to the shroud.   

 

The other seal where I have found oil leaks are between the engine block and the base plate that the oil filter screws on to.   

[Ed Kennell 39,278]

Wow, I just saw your picture of the oil filter.      The mess really suggest the oil was leaking from the oil filter base and was blown out around the gap left by the missing oil filter to shroud grommet.

[Ed Kennell 39,278]

   This is the oil filter base plate gasket that is probably leaking.

 

[Red Stallion 51]

At this rate the $70 for shipping might not be too bad. Since I need the oil filter seal, the base plate gasket, and a heap of those 5/16 panel clips with the captured nuts. Those alone are $2 a piece in Australia

[Red Stallion 51]

Already starting to look much cleaner... I can actually see the engine block!

[Handy Don 12,674]

11 hours ago, Red Stallion said:

At this rate the $70 for shipping might not be too bad. Since I need the oil filter seal, the base plate gasket, and a heap of those 5/16 panel clips with the captured nuts. Those alone are $2 a piece in Australia

If they are from the same source, getting the carb kit and all the other “maintenance" gaskets (heads, intake, exhaust, etc) might be a good investment. 

You can see by the size of the vanes on the flywheel just how much air that engine moves for cooling.

Edited 6 hours ago by Handy Don

[lynnmor 7,390]

The tins over the heads can be removed with just a few more screws.  Ed mentioned pulling the heads for carbon removal, depending how the engine was used it may or may not be necessary, Onan has it on their maintenance chart.

 

It appears that you have the short oil filter and it will not hold the gasket (Onan calls it a gasket, many here call it a grommet) in place.  Get a long filter, I use only Onan 122-0800 or Fleetguard LF3339.

 

It is likely due for a valve adjustment, that takes a fair amount of work since the exhaust, intake and valve covers to be removed.  I can guide you thru that even better than the service manual.  I always glass bead the exhaust and paint it with high temperature paint to preserve it, good ones are hard to find.  The intake manifold can develop a leak so it needs to be inspected at the seam and where the heat shields might contact.

 

It is best to use genuine Onan gaskets, many aftermarket gaskets are junk, especially the intake and head gaskets.  Add gaskets to your shopping list.

 

Be sure to download the Onan Service Manual here.  Have a small torque wrench and follow the torque specifications in the manual, do not over tighten.

 

As you proceed, keep checking back, there are many fine details that we can provide.  Work slow and clean, stop if you are not sure how to proceed.  If you become a supporter here many photos can be posted to help communicate.

 

[lynnmor 7,390]

57 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

If they are from the same source, getting the carb kit and all the other “maintenance" gaskets (heads, intake, exhaust, etc) might be a good investment. 

You can see by the size of the vanes on the flywheel just how much air that engine moves for cooling.

 

It would be a good idea to open the carburetor, most times only a cleaning is required and maybe a bowl gasket.

 

These Onan engines were used extensively for generator duty where they were governed to 1800 RPM.  That large blower (flywheel) moved enough air to run full throttle at half the speed we run our tractors.  While cleaning, or at least inspecting, the cooling fins, I have never seen any grass clippings built up in there.  Some oil filter mounts had a cast finish that did leak, the fine finish on the others was not much of a problem if the bolts were tight.  My guess is the oil mess often comes from the mechanic being sloppy.  Whenever changing the oil filter, use a mirror and flashlight while the filter is off to get an idea if the tins need to come off.