Power winch lift for plow??

[ML3 1,374]

Want to figure out a winch setup for lifting/lowering plow blade on my 654 without getting into a huge engineering project. Not much room in front of tractor & along plow frame. Here's what I got....

 

Suggestions? Or better anyone got pics of what they did that works. 

 

Would like to find a smaller winch maybe???

[Ed Kennell 39,549]

I would mount the winch and a battery on the plow frame in front of the tractor.    The pull cable would be connected to the vertical leg on the rock shaft pulling it forward to lift the plow.

 

There must be a strong spring in line to prevent damage from the winch overrun when there are no limiting switches.      The winch I used had a RC control that I mounted on the steering wheel.

 

Just recharge the battery as needed.  If it dies during plowing, the manual lift is still connected and functional.

Edited January 5 by Ed Kennell

[ebinmaine 69,357]

45 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I would mount the winch and a battery on the plow frame in front of the tractor.   

 

If one wanted to avoid the added weight to the plow frame you could use angle iron  (old bed frame?) bolted to the sides of the front of the tractor frame. 

Keep in mind this would be partially in the way if the hood opening. 

 

 

45 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

The pull cable would be connected to the vertical leg on the rock shaft pulling it forward to lift the plow.

 

That's a neat idea. I'd always pictured a lift - lifting up.  

 

45 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

 

There must be a strong spring in line to prevent damage from the winch overrun when there are no limiting switches.     

 

@ML3.  Do you have a switch or controller for that winch?

[ML3 1,374]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

If one wanted to avoid the added weight to the plow frame you could use angle iron  (old bed frame?) bolted to the sides of the front of the tractor frame. 

Keep in mind this would be partially in the way if the hood opening. 

 

 

 

That's a neat idea. I'd always pictured a lift - lifting up.  

 

 

@ML3.  Do you have a switch or controller for that winch?

It has a switch.  I was thinking similar of mounting winch on plow frame under rock shaft. Need an weekend evening out in the garage with a cigar & few beers in me to do some engineering.  Lol

Edited January 6 by ML3

[SylvanLakeWH 26,366]

Here's what I did.

 

Works like a charm...

 

 

[Ed Kennell 39,549]

3 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Here's what I did.

How did you control the overrun Jim?

[Ed Kennell 39,549]

Here's an old thread on plow lift that may trigger some ideas.

 

 

 

     

 

 

Edited January 5 by Ed Kennell

[SylvanLakeWH 26,366]

52 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

How did you control the overrun Jim?

I have soft hands... 

 

The controller is remarkably smooth. I push it for a second and it's up where I need it. Push it for a second and it's down... so far so good... I have confirmed that there is at least 2" slack going up... I keep it at 2" off pavement...

 

I know I "should" add springs, but... the boss has me taking down Christmas decorations... so... maybe next summer...

 

[Ed Kennell 39,549]

1 minute ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

I have soft hands... 

Oh, guess mine are hard.        I bent and broke some eye bolts and angle iron before I added the spring.   Mine wench was also radio controlled.   Maybe the waves were slowed by the heavy country air?

[SylvanLakeWH 26,366]

2 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Oh, guess mine are hard.        I bent and broke some eye bolts and angle iron before I added the spring.   Mine wench was also radio controlled.   Maybe the waves were slowed by the heavy country air?

 

The badland is hard wired and it is pretty consistent... I mounted it in the hood right in front of the steering wheel. As soon as it's off pavement I stop pushing the button and it ends up almost exactly 2" off pavement...

 

I live 20 miles from Detroit, but nobody ever refers to it as "country air"... 

[Ed Kennell 39,549]

54 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

As soon as it's off pavement I stop pushing

Thinking back, the arrangement I had where I used a cam to contact the frame and pull the blade angle locking pin, It was impossible to stop the winch at the exact time.  With the spring in line, it didn't matter.

[ML3 1,374]

2 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Here's what I did.

 

Works like a charm...

 

 

Like your setup but I don't think I have enough room to mount winch on front with my tractor being a short frame. 

Edited January 6 by ML3

[ML3 1,374]

I like the linear actuator idea but not sure if it would hold up for up/down or even work especially when pushing snow?? Maybe if it was mounted on angle somehow connecting plow frame & frame of tractor or other mounting point?? I do often raise blade when I need to stack snow. 

[Ed Kennell 39,549]

1 minute ago, ML3 said:

I do often raise blade when I need to stack snow. 

Me too.   But I have all hydros with hydraulic lift, so it is easy.      I also use the lift to work the blower up and down as I move the tractor forward and back to chew it's way thru a 3-4 ft drift.

This is easy with a hydraulic lift and a foot pedal motion control.    If we get some snow tomorrow, I'll make a video.

[SylvanLakeWH 26,366]

29 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Like your setup but I don't think I have enough room to mount winch on front with my tractor being a short frame. 

I think you'd be fine... 2" receiver with a winch plate and windlass... pull straight up and down... you're only talking about 2"-3" travel... that winch won't even know it's hooked up...

[ML3 1,374]

Heres what I'm thinking.......

 

Maybe use it in place of lift arm/chain??

[ebinmaine 69,357]

5 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Heres what I'm thinking.......

 

Maybe use it in place of lift arm/chain??

 

 

I like the direction you're heading but I think I would use it WITH a chain or spring on the end.

 

Linear actuators are generally only made to move something. NOT take the strain of the item. You'll need to separate the unit from the possibilities of damage.

 

 

[ML3 1,374]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I like the direction you're heading but I think I would use it WITH a chain or spring on the end.

 

Linear actuators are generally only made to move something. NOT take the strain of the item. You'll need to separate the unit from the possibilities of damage.

 

 

I was thinking of using it with chain kinda as a fusible link......

[Handy Don 12,910]

WH’s that had electric lift used a very sturdy electric actuator attached to the rock shaft in place of the big lever arm or hydraulic cylinder.

@ebinmaine's point is good. When looking, be sure to consider both the dynamic and the static force capacity as well as the IP rating (dust and weather resistance) and be sure to look closely at the speed under load. The speeds I’ve looked at at range from ~0.3” per second to ~1.25” per second. Faster gets expensive.

If the direct lift for the plow blade is, say, 3 inches, that’s as slow as 10 seconds to as fast as 2.5 seconds. The hydros take around one second! Tricky when the ads list the throw in inches but a speed in millimeters. The 4” @ 14mm/sec above takes  7.25 seconds for the full range. Count with me...1, 2, 3...I’m bored! 

Edited January 8 by Handy Don

[SylvanLakeWH 26,366]

 

Standard winch is fast, easy and cheap...

 

[ML3 1,374]

The downfall to the actuators seems like the speed. However, it's still better than the back pain I get after plowing. I may ultimately end up getting a hydro tractor but I like the size of the 654. It's also  very reliable considering it's age & having Tecumseh that most everyone seems to dislike. It's a cheap investment to try the actuator before looking for a hydro tractor & going thru everything again to make it right.  I'm already there with the 654. Last thing I need is another project

[ebinmaine 69,357]

4 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Tecumseh that most everyone seems to dislike.

Teccys are great when they're running right....

And VERY challenging when they aren't.  

 

Some of them just run.  And run. And run. And run. And run. 

 

As for the speed of the lift...

That's up to you. Only you. 

 

If you got in the habit of beginning to raise the plow near the end of the drive it may be OK.  

Or not.....

 

 

[Handy Don 12,910]

11 minutes ago, ML3 said:

The downfall to the actuators seems like the speed.

The second downfall is that they are not appropriate in situations with very high static loads.

For example, many members have considered using one for dozer blade rotation. No worries when there is no load on the blade--a force of 30 lbs will be plenty. BUT when pushing heavy snow using only one end of the blade, the load on the actuator will be many hundreds of pounds and likely more when hitting an obstructioin--in part because the width of the plow adds leverage. Few actuators are built for static pressures that high--hydraulics excel at this, of course. Those sturdy quadrant locks on WH plows are not an accident.

[ML3 1,374]

Got the actuator mounted. Was able to use existing holes, etc for all mounting including the switch. Therefore if it doesn't work it can easily be removed. Supposed to get snow overnight so I'll likely get to try it tomorrow.  🤞

 

I'm not too worried about static pressure as my driveway is flat & only 2yrs old. I have never even had the plow trip on the springs. 

 

I still may consider getting a 2" actuator & use a few links of chain. It appears like I could mount it on the rock shaft leaving the lift arm in up position & attaching bottom of actuator to chain which would attach to plow frame lift point. Hopefully.....I won't need my "plan b"