Steven The Commando/B-80 Puller

[ebinmaine 68,751]

9 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

What would be the correct offset?

 

They vary a little over the years. 

I believe you'd need a backspacing around 1 3/8" to MAYBE 2".

That might be too deep.  

 

Depending on Class Rules you MAY be able to use wheel spacers like my workers have.  

 

 

For performance parts there's another company to look at called Midwest Super Cubs. 

 

 

[Easton Rich 404]

I’ll check my rules

[Easton Rich 404]

What kind of spacer would I need with these?
https://vogelmanufacturing.com/vmtt23-tires-on-vm-wheels.html

[ebinmaine 68,751]

1 hour ago, Easton Rich said:

What kind of spacer would I need with these?
https://vogelmanufacturing.com/vmtt23-tires-on-vm-wheels.html

 

 

They're available in two different spacing sets. 

 

With the larger of the two you'd need multiple spacers per side. 

With the 4 / 6 spacing I don't know if that's a reversible figure. 

If so, a 2" spacer might work. 

 

I'd offer caution and awareness on these for several reasons:

1. Shipping could be EXTREMELY expensive. 

2. Your racing class might not allow them.  

3. You will have another $100 or so into the spacers. 

 

By the time you buy the two tires and all needed parts plus freight you could easily go at or over  $1000.  

 

I'd be willing to bet there's a much less expensive option to get wide AGs. Like stock sized 520H wheels with BKT TR315 Trencher tires. 

[TonyToro Jr. 1,650]

17 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

@TonyToro Jr. I saw you talked about Vogel Manufacturing, are their tires or engine parts any good?

@Easton Rich Thanks for the shout! Vogel makes very good parts. Engine parts are very good and shipped fast. Rims are good. Tires it all depends on what you’re pulling. Stone boat or transfer sled? Also what class are you planning on? Bone stock?

[Easton Rich 404]

No stock -modified 

[Easton Rich 404]

Thank you

[Easton Rich 404]

Ok I’m not real savvy with that kind of thing @ebinmaine

[Easton Rich 404]

What should I do?

[ebinmaine 68,751]

2 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

Ok I’m not real savvy with that kind of thing @ebinmaine

 

 

No worries. You'll learn. 

 

I don't pull in competition but my tractors use some of the same principles. We move some rugged loads here.  

 

 

[ebinmaine 68,751]

2 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

What should I do?

 

Nice clean careful cleaning is your first order of business. 

Then you can see what you're working with. 

 

 

 

[TonyToro Jr. 1,650]

When we built the engine for my Economy stock this year out of and K series 14. Had about 18 hp with Midwest super cubs Piston, Rings, and Connecting rod. Then ordered a Vogel cam and valves and got 28hp out of it. So I’m happy with their stuff. 

[TonyToro Jr. 1,650]

9 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

No stock -modified 

Ok. Could you post up the rules for your club? Is there any speed limit in that class?

[Easton Rich 404]

I am going to have my local machine shop shave the head 0.050 over and I’m thinking about a cam

[ebinmaine 68,751]

2 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said:

When we built the engine for my Economy stock this year out of and K series 14. Had about 18 hp with Midwest super cubs Piston, Rings, and Connecting rod. Then ordered a Vogel cam and valves and got 28hp out of it. So I’m happy with their stuff. 

 

You have access to a dyno or is that experience knowing/ estimates? 

 

What RPM? 

[Easton Rich 404]

@ebinmaine I’m very limited to what I can do, it like 10 out right now.

[Easton Rich 404]

How do you clean your engine internals?

[Easton Rich 404]

Just learning others ways

[ebinmaine 68,751]

3 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

@ebinmaine I’m very limited to what I can do, it like 10 out right now.

🥶 

[ebinmaine 68,751]

6 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

How do you clean your engine internals?

 

The area you can see around the valves and piston can be done carefully with a light duty wire brush AND A VACUUM.  

 

Same for rest of the outside of the block.  

 

[peter lena 8,824]

@Easton Rich  are you talking paint patina / vintage ? of recovery ? my typical look at a long neglected tractor  or any used to be painted anything is the OPPORTUNITY  to  retain that with an oiled look , IRONICALLY  YOUR FRONT AXEL  ENDS are showing you what a lubrication soak , starts . personally would NOT REMOVE ANY OF THAT PAINT IN ANY WAY /  knock r loose , penetrant , is a good spray down and let it sit , till the moisture soak in , then rub it down , with  more penetrant , let soak , or mineral oil , like a clean soft cloth , any paint that lightly pulls out with an deeper  oil look would be perfect on that . BTW first thing I do on any  old painted finish , is to get a lube spray down going on , your  clean oiled cloth rub down will show you how its going . my paint recoverys , on just starting a fade , usually buff right out , would let that paint absorb , lubricant first ,  used 6 " electric palm buffer , cleaner wax to pull these out , yours would be darker OILED PATINA , good fit for  era, pete

 

[TonyToro Jr. 1,650]

23 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

You have access to a dyno or is that experience knowing/ estimates? 

 

What RPM? 

Yes we had access to a dyno. It was at 4000 RPM

[ebinmaine 68,751]

3 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said:

Yes we had access to a dyno. It was at 4000 RPM

 

 

Very cool 

[ebinmaine 68,751]

29 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

I am going to have my local machine shop shave the head 0.050 over and I’m thinking about a cam

 

Double check with the machine shop or piston supplier to understand where the piston top will be at full RPM and Top Dead Center. 

A stock setup will likely be lower than the engine block but an aftermarket piston could come up higher. 

That changes your spacing for valves and cylinder head.  

 

Remember that the camshaft is literally the controller of your engine and it's scope of breathing.  

Be aware of the RPM potential and its limitations.  

The stock rod and flywheel should NEVER be pushed past 4000. 

 

 

[TonyToro Jr. 1,650]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Be aware of the RPM potential and its limitations.  

The stock rod and flywheel should NEVER be pushed past 4000. 

 

 

 In our club this is the last class that can have the stock flywheel. All the others need to have aftermarket usually billet flywheels 🤑🤑🤑