Easton Rich 449 #76 Posted January 7 Yes I’m swapping it to a 10hp. There is no wiring left. It has a 5 prong ignition Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #77 Posted January 7 @Handy Don I’ve got a ton a of stuff on order (including a flywheel and a ring gear for it), plus I’ve already done some modifications to the engine to accommodate these items. I’ve also relocated the battery box, so it won’t be a problem. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,812 #78 Posted January 7 1 hour ago, Easton Rich said: It has a 5 prong ignition EXTREMELY IMPORTANT Verify which ignition switch you have. You MUST be able to read the letters on the existing switch to identify what it is. A 5 prong switch means you likely had the regular starter, not the S/G. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,812 #79 Posted January 7 1 hour ago, Easton Rich said: I’ve already done some modifications to the engine to accommodate these items Like what? What's the 10 HP you have out of? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #80 Posted January 7 It’s got all of the brackets for the S/G. I think this thing has been cobbled together. The dash is not original, it has a cigarette lighter, and a different shifter ball Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #81 Posted January 7 I’m not 100% on what the engine is out of Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,110 #82 Posted January 8 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Verify which ignition switch you have. Because both magneto and battery ignition switches have 5 prongs but work differently in critical ways. Don’t risk damaged electrics. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #83 Posted January 8 I’m not, I’m going bare minimum on all of my wiring/electrics because I don’t need them for what this is going to be used for Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #84 Posted January 15 I bought a belt guard and just got it in today, I will need to make some minor adjustments to it but nothing much. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #85 Posted January 16 I know you guys are against this but it’s only temporary. I’m going put a 212 on it to get it running, any suggestions on installation? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,094 #86 Posted January 16 2 hours ago, Easton Rich said: I know you guys are against this but it’s only temporary. I’m going put a 212 on it to get it running, any suggestions on installation? What do you mean by 212?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #87 Posted January 17 Predator 212cc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #88 Posted January 21 I need answers, I’m stuck between using the 1960’s style 6 slot hood or the 1970’s B80 hood. What do you think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,812 #89 Posted January 21 6 hours ago, Easton Rich said: I need answers, I’m stuck between using the 1960’s style 6 slot hood or the 1970’s B80 hood. What do you think? Personally I like the looks of the 70s tractors. My opinion isn't what matters though. Which FRAME are you using? The hood mounts will be different from an early Commando to a mid 70s anything. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,229 #90 Posted January 21 On 1/7/2025 at 7:39 PM, Easton Rich said: I’m going bare minimum on all of my wiring/electrics because I don’t need them for what this is going to be used for Keep it simple. Here is a picture of the dash on Horse Apples. Toggle switch to turn the ignition on and a push button for the starter. As per our club rules, the starter button is also hooked to a switch on the clutch/brake peddle. The starter will not work unless the peddle is depressed all the way. (switch towards the front) The switch towards the back is a break away switch. This gets tethered to the eliminator. If my tractor comes unhooked from the eliminator, the plunger on this switch will get pulled out. This in turn will shut off my ignition and electric fuel pump. This breakaway switch is another requirement by our club. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #91 Posted January 22 I was looking into using that cub style hitch you have @Achto, how did you mount it? Thank guys for having grace with me through this whole thing, I’m new and this has left me a bit confused 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #92 Posted January 22 17 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Personally I like the looks of the 70s tractors. My opinion isn't what matters though. Which FRAME are you using? The hood mounts will be different from an early Commando to a mid 70s anything. I’ll show you what I did to accommodate this tomorrow, I decided I’m going with the 70’s hood, because it looks a little cooler on this application (That’s my opinion). The reason mostly is the motor don’t fit under the 68 hood, this amounts to: I’m a lazy bum 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,229 #93 Posted January 22 (edited) 9 hours ago, Easton Rich said: I was looking into using that cub style hitch you have @Achto, My hitch was completely hand made. Uses the 2 bolts on the top of the transmission and the 3/4" pin for the stock hitch. Top plate of the hitch. Face plate and lower plate. Inside pieces for mounting to the 3/4' pin. Top plate mounted Face plate bent and shaped. Upper and lower plates shaped. All pieces burned together. Last make the hitch piece and the 3/4" ready rod to hold the adjustable hitch. Finished product. The wheelie bars that I made bolt on each side of this hitch. Edited January 22 by Achto 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #94 Posted January 23 Ok, that’s not to bad. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #95 Posted January 23 Me and my family decided against Steven it’s now Steel Horse 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #96 Posted January 26 Sorry to keep mentioning you @Achto, but I have hopefully one of my last questions. What sizes of pulleys are you running? I’ve got most of this down. Hopefully. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,724 #97 Posted January 26 7 hours ago, Easton Rich said: Sorry to keep mentioning you @Achto, but I have hopefully one of my last questions. What sizes of pulleys are you running? I’ve got most of this down. Hopefully. @Easton Rich I’m also going to chime in with this one. For us, pulley size all depends on the track. But usually we have a 6.0 pulley on the front and does about 5.5 MPH. But your pulley sizes also depend on how much power and torque you have from the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Easton Rich 449 #98 Posted January 26 Looks cool like this, maybe it’ll do this someday Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,724 #99 Posted January 26 35 minutes ago, Easton Rich said: Looks cool like this, maybe it’ll do this someday I noticed in the picture you have your axle flipped. Make your you CHECK all your club rules about everything you do like that. I know in our club flipping or spindles and or axles are not allowed. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,229 #100 Posted January 27 18 hours ago, Easton Rich said: have hopefully one of my last questions. No problem at all. Currently I'm running the stock pullies for a C101. 2nd gear I'm running about 3.5mph ground speed, usually run out of traction before I run out of power. Thinking about bumping up to a 1" bigger pulley on the engine next year, maybe reach 4mph ground speed. These speeds are fine for the stock class that I pull in. If you're running a 3 speed tranny, target your ground speed in 2nd gear. 3rd gear is not strong enough to be putting extreme pressure on. The engagement surface of the gear it's self is not very good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
