AHS 1,472 #1 Posted December 30, 2024 When the snowblower is off!! I can stick my fingers in between the impeller and the housing. Like 3/4”-1” in between there. Is that right or is it way worn down? I want 1/4” so i can throw snow 50’!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,663 #2 Posted December 30, 2024 Who's the northern folk that have added the extra edge there? Rubber thingamajig? @WHX?? @Ed Kennell @squonk You guys remember? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,814 #3 Posted December 30, 2024 @AHS major players there , rotational movement ease , and dry snow , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,936 #4 Posted December 30, 2024 (edited) 2 hours ago, AHS said: Like 3/4”-1” in between there. Is that right or is it way worn down? I just looked at my Ber Vac. The gap is around 0.20" . I have used pieces of 1/4" thick flat belting to add extensions to a single stage impeller. Can't really say if it helped. 3/4-1" gap does seem bad. You would probably be better to close that gap with bolt on extensions after you add a support brace to the gear box. Keep all extensions exactly the same ....thinking balance. Are there any weak spots or broken welds that would allow the impeller to contact the housing when under load? Edited December 30, 2024 by Ed Kennell 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,561 #5 Posted December 30, 2024 1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said: . 3/4-1" gap does seem bad. You would probably be better to close that gap with bolt on extensions after you add a support brace to the gear box. Keep all extensions exactly the same ....thinking balance. Are there any weak spots or broken welds that would allow the impeller to contact the housing when under load? Me? I’d clamp a piece of thin sheet metal to the impeller and then rotate by hand to find the smallest clearance cause your blade extensions cannot be longer than that! Just as an FYI, my neighbor made a nifty mess of his fancy walk-behind (headlights, heated grips, power chute swivel, partial cab) when it picked up a bolt and jammed but good. Bent the augur (not so bad) which hit/bent the impeller (also not too bad) and the housing (that took some time to hammer out) and burnt the belt (it didn’t occur to him to simply let go of the blower clutch). The bolt had fallen onto the sidewalk from some metal scrap another neighbor had put out for recycling). I wondered why the shear bolt hadn’t, you know, sheared, so I asked if anyone had done any service on the augur. He was proud to tell me that he’d not needed to bother me for an assist the previous year when a stick had jammed the impeller and broke a bolt and that he’d gone himself and gotten the right diameter and length and put it in. It was a G5. I was gentle when I explained about shear bolts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 851 #6 Posted December 31, 2024 i have 2 identical ariens walk behind blowers. both are ST1236's. 12hp/36 inch cut. on one i got conveyor belting and drilled/bolted on extensions to contact the housing. i had the machine running and had a buddy spray water with the garden hose into the auger/impeller housing as i gradually engaged the blower clutch. we ran it with water spraying in and out the chute for about 5 minutes to break in the belting and get an exact impeller to housing fit. the other blower is stock. the one with the belting throws snow further. way less clogging too. any pump is stronger when the vanes are just 'wiping' the housing. your gap seems quite excessive. i like ed kennell's idea about some metal extensions to reduce the gap to as close as possible. personally i would weld on metal extensions and then add the belting. also as previously mentioned by ed fab a brace from the gear box to the bucket. WHX did this and i think WHhillbilly too. i have a bervac and it comes with the brace. wh skimped on this regards mike 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,328 #7 Posted December 31, 2024 I have not done it yet but plan to when I stumble on the right material. Pic I from here when discussing deuces. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,472 #8 Posted December 31, 2024 Ok, very interesting! I wish someone made a front gearbox stabilizer kit!! I have a spare 2 stage (guess what’s wrong w/ the spare 2 stage…rear gearbox!), and maybe that’ll have a closer impeller to housing clearance. Otherwise I will have to make some plates and bolt em on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill 633 854 #9 Posted December 31, 2024 (edited) 9 hours ago, WHX?? said: I have not done it yet but plan to when I stumble on the right material. May want to consider UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) polyethylene. Edited December 31, 2024 by Wild Bill 633 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,328 #10 Posted December 31, 2024 (edited) 1 hour ago, AHS said: someone made a front gearbox stabilizer kit! Not that hard to DIY. 1 hour ago, AHS said: closer impeller to housing clearance. I doubt that a gearbox brace would help. It was mainly just supposed to help with vibration 1 hour ago, Wild Bill 633 said: consider UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) polyethylene. I do have some of that but is earmarked for the bottoms of fish house runners. Won't help with with the clearance issue but another good mod is replace auger end bushings with bearings. Edited December 31, 2024 by WHX?? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,814 #11 Posted December 31, 2024 @mrc still have some conveyor scraps from back in the day , also makes BOMBPROOF BREAK DRUM , material , easily TIN SNIP TRIMMED , regularly zero in on a repetitive issues , experiment , break down of initial set up , rarely , if ever put it back as , has failed . snow blowing is fun when its dry / fluffy , we are right on the , wet / dry zone , usually if its good , get it moved into the snow / melt , zone , so the sun is melting it while I am now plowing , excess. pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,472 #12 Posted December 31, 2024 @WHX?? the 2 stage is new to me. Im going to get to that bearing stuff in the future. Probably summer ‘25. I really like the 2 stage! Except for the weight of it!! What does the 2 stage weigh? 200 lbs? At the very least! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,663 #13 Posted December 31, 2024 2 minutes ago, AHS said: @WHX?? the 2 stage is new to me. Im going to get to that bearing stuff in the future. Probably summer ‘25. I really like the 2 stage! Except for the weight of it!! What does the 2 stage weigh? 200 lbs? At the very least! I don't have an actual number but I'm sure it's closer to 300 lb. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,814 #14 Posted December 31, 2024 @mrc still have some conveyor scraps from back in the day , also makes BOMBPROOF BREAK DRUM , material , easily TIN SNIP TRIMMED , regularly zero in on a repetitive issues , experiment , break down of initial set up , rarely , if ever put it back as , has failed . snow blowing is fun when its dry / fluffy , we are right on the , wet / dry zone , usually if its good , get it moved into the snow / melt , zone , so the sun is melting it while I am now plowing , excess. pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,094 #15 Posted Wednesday at 12:00 AM I used thick rubber floor mat for making the paddle extensions. They automatically conformed to the shortest distance although it smelled like someone was doing a burnout for the first hour or so. It's been about 3 years since putting them on so it's time for a new set, but haven't got around to it. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 9,487 #16 Posted Wednesday at 01:32 AM From memory 336 lbs for a 2 stage 44'' Toro blower. @AHS 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,472 #17 Posted Wednesday at 11:44 AM 10 hours ago, JCM said: From memory 336 lbs for a 2 stage 44'' Toro blower. @AHS Holy!! I thought I was gonna need mores than wheel weights and chains on back…and I do! Unless you stay on level snowblowed ground! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,663 #18 Posted Wednesday at 11:46 AM 2 minutes ago, AHS said: Holy!! I thought I was gonna need mores than wheel weights and chains on back…and I do! Unless you stay on level snowblowed ground! This is a great example of when fluid filled tires would be considered Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 9,487 #19 Posted Wednesday at 01:07 PM 57 minutes ago, AHS said: Holy!! I thought I was gonna need mores than wheel weights and chains on back…and I do! Unless you stay on level snowblowed ground! Never say ever, but, I have not as yet since 2002 ish ever got the 520-H stuck with plastic wheel weights and good quality 2 link chains using the 2 stage. Both driveways where roughly 200' long.. One was blacktop the other gravel / stone. Plan every move and don't overload the blower especially the roadside at the end of the driveway. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,814 #20 Posted Wednesday at 01:55 PM @JCM " plan every move " could not agree more ! as stated regularly plow with the sun , you know your own personal , set up , for repetitive problems / issues , mine is edge of road , initial break thru . and plow to going to get sun area , melting stage to street drain . do that all over as reaction / response tells you . my blowers are sold , but my plow blades , do a very good job , to drain city . also regularly touch up as day goes on , getting a final plow skim on pavement , is steamy , melting with the sun , for me a lubrication faced dozer blade , is amazingly efficient on soon to be melted snow . that lubricated / detailed PLOW STEERING QUADRANT , is amazingly easy in its lever control . we are not close in distance , but we are on the same horse , moving the white stuff , drifter , pete 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,472 #21 Posted Wednesday at 03:35 PM @JCM gravel driveway.. what does the you use for shear bolts? Have you ever broken one? How much should you grease the rear gearbox…about twice per winter? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 9,487 #22 Posted Wednesday at 04:22 PM Have never replaced any shear bolts.I have the front shoes raised up to minimize the stones getting into the auger. I don't grease the gear box on a regular basis. It does not get much use. I mix up the equipment between 3 or 4 tractors and a side X side 4x4 UTV. And of course a good collection of old fashioned steel shovels left from my father. Plenty of pine handle work around here. It's never ending. Makes for good quality upper and lower body workout without going to the gym. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,472 #23 Posted Thursday at 12:23 PM 19 hours ago, JCM said: Have never replaced any shear bolts.I have the front shoes raised up to minimize the stones getting into the auger. I don't grease the gear box on a regular basis. It does not get much use. I mix up the equipment between 3 or 4 tractors and a side X side 4x4 UTV. And of course a good collection of old fashioned steel shovels left from my father. Plenty of pine handle work around here. It's never ending. Makes for good quality upper and lower body workout without going to the gym. Yup! I got a steal of a shovel find; 7 steel square shovels for $35!!! There is a shovel outside every door now! Good to know about the shear bolts. Keep the shoes raised up is a must!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red-Bovine 321 #24 Posted Thursday at 02:11 PM We just used the standard plastic covered Toro Wheel Weights and chains on our 520H. Never needed any more with a sloped 135 foot driveway. 520H purchased in 1993, Blower in 1995, repowered with Honda in 2013, and added cab in 2021. Been great. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,328 #25 Posted Thursday at 02:32 PM I have never replaced shear bolts ... yet ... Just running regular bolts but a guy could take some regular mild steel ones and grind down a groove in them in the right spot. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites