C160-H Crank and fire, then no any click

[Phan 15]

Hello, 

I am about to clear snow. The C160 cranked and fired (briefly 5 seconds), and then were no any clicks. 

Battery rates 12.6v. Light test (ignition on) - no light to the ignition or the solenoid. Please give me advice. Thanks you! 

[953 nut 55,827]

Sounds like it is time to do a little deferred maintenance. Clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds.

[ri702bill 8,507]

Several things to check, as mentioned above.

Is the PTO disengaged?

Seat and clutch switches working as required??

[OutdoorEnvy 1,578]

2 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Sounds like it is time to do a little deferred maintenance. Clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds.

yeah the battery ground and solenoid ground are the big two here.  I wire brush or sand to bare metal and a little dielectric grease for them.  

[squonk 41,350]

Careful. Dielectric grease is an insulator. It does not improve conductivity. Use it to protect a connection from outside elements only.

[Phan 15]

Thanks to all!

Just an undate - I retested the lights (photo attached).

The terminal light clip was attached to the solenoid (picture) and touched to the following as these orders:

1) the other side of solenoid, light yes

2) the coil, light yes,

3) the starter, light yes,

4) the + terminal battery, light no (but I noticed a small fire)

 

I also notcied that I had been a weak/brief an electicshok when I touched to the tractor - why? I was scared about this. Please help!

 

Regading cleanning and tightening the eclectical connections / grounds, I will follow through.

For the PTO, it was disengaged. I have no seat swicth (it has been disconnected since I had it).

As for the clutch switch, I am not sure, but mine is an C160 H. 

  

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,098]

Somewhere on the transmission controls there will be a switch that closes when the transmission is in the neutral position allowing the starter to operate.

This neural switch along with the pto switch in the pto off position completes the circuit for the starter. The small wire at the solenoid gets power and a clunk when the electro magnet closes on the large solenoid terminals - power to starter motor.

 

When testing with a light connect the clip on the wire to a known good ground - battery (-) is good.

Then probe with the tester to check for power.

[Roger R 448]

...."I also notcied that I had been a weak/brief an electicshok when I touched to the tractor".....Likely static generated by your coat or other fabric(Nylon jackets are notorious for this) and if you are wearing boots, with rubber or other non conductive soles they will prevent an ongoing static discharge, and the tractor framework makes a sufficient ground for discharge. Nothing to worry about except if there is a concentration of gasoline fumes present at the point of discharge. Not a likely situation, but something to be aware of. 

Edited Saturday at 06:46 PM by Roger R

[squonk 41,350]

Clutch switch on a C 160 is on the frame of the tractor right next to the clutch brake pedal. There is a ball in the switch that the base of the pedal is supposed to push in when you press the pedal. On many of these the ball is stuck from rust and the switch is disconnected. The wires are tied together so the start circuit will work

[Phan 15]

3 hours ago, Roger R said:

...."I also notcied that I had been a weak/brief an electicshok when I touched to the tractor".....Likely static generated by your coat or other fabric(Nylon jackets are notorious for this) and if you are wearing boots, with rubber or other non conductive soles they will prevent an ongoing static discharge, and the tractor framework makes a sufficient ground for discharge. Nothing to worry about except if there is a concentration of gasoline fumes present at the point of discharge. Not a likely situation, but something to be aware of. 

Thnak you!

[Phan 15]

3 hours ago, squonk said:

Clutch switch on a C 160 is on the frame of the tractor right next to the clutch brake pedal. There is a ball in the switch that the base of the pedal is supposed to push in when you press the pedal. On many of these the ball is stuck from rust and the switch is disconnected. The wires are tied together so the start circuit will work

I checked by pressing with my finger and the ball move freely, it's clean no rush or dust. 

[Phan 15]

3 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Somewhere on the transmission controls there will be a switch that closes when the transmission is in the neutral position allowing the starter to operate.

This neural switch along with the pto switch in the pto off position completes the circuit for the starter. The small wire at the solenoid gets power and a clunk when the electro magnet closes on the large solenoid terminals - power to starter motor.

 

When testing with a light connect the clip on the wire to a known good ground - battery (-) is good.

Then probe with the tester to check for power.

I will go through your comment tomorrow.

[Phan 15]

By far, I checked all wires, they were tightened. I also replaced the wire between the terminal + battery and the solenoid.

I sprayed an electrical spray bought at an auto store on each connector. However, there is still no clicks.

Tomorrow, I will go though again. 

 

I do remember that a "no click" issue had happened to my B100 before, that time I found a broken PTO switch.

[953 nut 55,827]

7 hours ago, Phan said:

the + terminal battery, light no (but I noticed a small fire)

Please explain what a "Small Firer" was.     Did smoke come from the battery cable,  or the battery itself.   If smoke or fire came from the battery itself you could be in danger of a battery explosion.

[Phan 15]

16 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Please explain what a "Small Firer" was.     Did smoke come from the battery cable,  or the battery itself.   If smoke or fire came from the battery itself you could be in danger of a battery explosion.

Hi - I'm sorry for my English. It was a "spark" (refering to "small firer"). There was no smoke coming from the battery, you brought up the good point; I will pay attention on it. 

[Phan 15]

Hello - an update. 

I follow him posted on Youtube. Here I found out: 

 

Step-1: Check battery, I got 12.5 v

 

Step-2: Use a light test for the following:

a)       + battery to the solenoid pole + battery, light YES

b)       – battery to the solenoid pole starter, light NO

c)       – battery to the solenoid pole + battery, light YES

d)       – battery to the solenoid pole red wire key switch, light NO, when turning the key on, light NO

 

Step-3: Jumper wire bypass from the solenoid pole red wire key switch by touching at + battery, crank YES (when the key switch is the OFF position). This is to verify that the battery, stater, and solenoid are good.

Note-1: Using a small wire did not crank.

Note-2: It would not start because the key is the off position and the system is ground, but rather to verity purpose.

 

However, I am not sure waht is the next step I should do.

 

I checked the safety switch at the brake pedal, NO any rusts and free moving. 

I checked the PTO interlock, NO rusts and free moving.  

How I know that the key swicht is ok?