Slot Hitch - how strong?

[Bar Nuthin 541]

I found an old slot hitch, which seems like it might be a handy addition. I don't have a particular use in mind for it just yet, but I'm not one to turn down free stuff!!!

 

I'm wondering if there is strength guideline - i.e. how much force can it handle?  The cable is kind of ratty, so I'll be replacing that. The cable seems like it would be the weak link as far as lifting capacity goes (assuming I get my hydro-lift installed successfully).

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 68,406]

 

Following with interest.

 

I'm not sure what the implements weighed that were intended to be used on the hitch there. There's also the dragging force of something like a plow in a garden.

 

Seems like 150 lb to 200 lb would be pretty easy.

[Bar Nuthin 541]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

Seems like 150 lb to 200 lb would be pretty easy.

 

I'll have to check the tongue weight on my trailer.  A slip-ball hitch might be handy.

[Bar Nuthin 541]

I'm assuming it would be similar in capacity to a Brinley style clevis hitch. Some of those attachments don't look light + they hang out there quite a ways.

 

[Achto 27,802]

I run my Brinly attachment with an adaptor slid into the slot hitch. A cultivator hanging off the back with 40 extra pounds added way to the back of it has never been an issue. Same with a disc harrow or moldboard plow

[Lane Ranger 10,992]

When you have a straight tongued implement and it is inserted in the slot hitch correctly and pinned with a hitch pin an early Wheel Horse tractor with a Hein-Werner hydro pump added on will lift over 300 pounds without damage.

 

Not if you have an implement with addiotnal weight, improperly hooked up or snagged on something -yes you could probably break or damage the cast iron slot hitch.

 

 

[Handy Don 12,467]

2 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

I'll have to check the tongue weight on my trailer.  A slip-ball hitch might be handy.

Something to keep in mind when hooking up via a ball hitch--because the slot hitch is offset upward from the transaxle pin, it is held by the cable from pitching downward with trailer tongue weight, but there is nothing stopping it from pitching upward! If the trailer on a ball pushes against the tractor, it’ll almost certainly pivot the hitch upward. I have a slip-in ball hitch for the slot (thanks @953 nut!) but I am very cautions and use it only on level ground at slow speeds.

 

The slot dimensions are ⅝” H x 2” W -- not a common size for bar stock.

[Bar Nuthin 541]

@Handy Don - great input. That is definitely a deal breaker on the trailer hitch idea. Since then, I was thinking it might be useful to fabricate a small set of forks to move things like mower decks or parts pallets from place to place.

[953 nut 55,826]

2 hours ago, Lane Ranger said:

if you have an implement with addiotnal weight, improperly hooked up or snagged on something -yes you could probably break or damage the cast iron slot hitch

Not a problem, I had my plow on the 953 snag a big root, went to lift the plow and the front wheels of the tractor came up instead. The cable had just been replaced with a new Wheel Horse Parts and More unit or it probably would have broken.

9 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

I was thinking it might be useful to fabricate a small set of forks to move things like mower decks or parts pallets from place to place.

How about a low cart with caster wheels at the back and a tongue that will slip into the slot hitch with the lift lever in the down position. That way the hitch could move up or down to go over hills or into low spots and it could be backed up with no problem. HF has some casters with 8" OD pneumatic tires.

This home made rake runs about eighty pounds and bounces around when being transported and not in use, it has never given me any problems.

[Bar Nuthin 541]

7 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

HF has some casters with 8" OD pneumatic tires.

 

I've got a set of those in a crate somewhere. Used them one time to relocate a shed.

 

11 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

This home made rake runs about eighty pounds and bounces around when being transported and not in use, it has never given me any problems.

 

A rake is something that really interests me. I've often wondered how one would work for gathering up sticks into piles. I have several 100+ year old Oak trees that shed branches like crazy every time the wind blows.

[953 nut 55,826]

5 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

A rake is something that really interests me. I've often wondered how one would work for gathering up sticks into piles.

It works great. I was living in Florida when I built the rake and used it several times to clear the yard of hurricane debris. Branches, roof shingles, broken plastic patio chairs, you name it, just pulled them out to the edge of the street.

[Bar Nuthin 541]

9 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

It works great. I was living in Florida when I built the rake and used it several times to clear the yard of hurricane debris. Branches, roof shingles, broken plastic patio chairs, you name it, just pulled them out to the edge of the street.

 

Great! I expect full build plans with a materials list when I return in the morning! 

[Handy Don 12,467]

16 hours ago, 953 nut said:

The cable had just been replaced with a new Wheel Horse Parts and More unit or it probably would have broken.

I agree that the cable is likely designed to be the weakest point. A failure here is probably the least dangerous.

I just looked up the tensile strength of ⅛” wire rope -- approx 1,700+ lbs at breaking. Of course the condition of the wire and swages might lessen that. And other parts like the pins and clevises might be more or less. The arm and socket on the hitch casting are probably strong enough but I’m no metallurgist. And can one’s arm (or the hydro) generate that much force? IDK!

 

The pivot at the transaxle is about 7” from the cable attaching point so I’ll start with 11,900 lb inches 

 An 80 lb load centered 30” out from the pivot is only 2,400 lb inches.

A 200 lb load (ex. disc harrow & extra weights) centered 40” out from the pivot gets to 8,000 lb inches but still only two thirds of the break strength.

 

So from a back-of-the envelope, “looks about right” calculation, it’d take 300 lbs at 40” out to be at the “something is sure to break" limit!

Yep, lifting the front of the tractor probably takes less!

Edited December 19 by Handy Don

[Bar Nuthin 541]

58 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

The pivot at the transaxle is about 7” from the cable attaching point so I’ll start with 11,900 lb inches 

 An 80 lb load centered 30” out from the pivot is only 2,400 lb inches.

A 200 lb load (ex. disc harrow & extra weights) centered 40” out from the pivot gets to 8,000 lb inches but still only two thirds of the break strength.

 

Edited December 19 by Bar Nuthin

[Tonytoro416 1,067]

I run several attachments from the slot hitch. I find it the easiest platform to build custom tools from. The sprayer is 20 gallon and the harrow  is pretty heavy on its own and sometimes run wheel weights on it if I need more 

[Bar Nuthin 541]

8 minutes ago, Tonytoro416 said:

I find it the easiest platform to build custom tools from.

 

That's kinda what I was thinking when first saw it. Now I got a few fresh ideas.

[Handy Don 12,467]

13 hours ago, Tonytoro416 said:

The sprayer is 20 gallon

160 lbs of liquid, 40 lbs of hitch and container (?) so 200 lbs at maybe 20” out? Easy peasy at 4,000 lb inches

[Bar Nuthin 541]

14 hours ago, Tonytoro416 said:

I find it the easiest platform to build custom tools from.

 

18 hours ago, Handy Don said:

The slot dimensions are ⅝” H x 2” W -- not a common size for bar stock.

 

Any problems with using 2" x 1/2" bar stock to build attachments?

Or, would it benefit to shim it to get to the 5/8" that Don indicates?

[Handy Don 12,467]

4 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

 

Any problems with using 2" x 1/2" bar stock to build attachments?

Or, would it benefit to shim it to get to the 5/8" that Don indicates?

Using smaller stock will put the loads at the ends of the slot instead of distributing it as it should be. And it’ll permit bouncing which is not good.

Were it me, I’d weld up a sandwich of two 5/16” bars or at least add a ⅛” to the ½” and make sure that either sticks out past the ends of the slot.  

Edited Thursday at 05:44 PM by Handy Don

[Bar Nuthin 541]

9 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Using smaller stock will put the loads at the ends of the slot instead of distributing it as it should be. And it’ll permit bouncing which is not good.

Were it me, I’d weld up a sandwich of two 5/16” bars or at least add a ⅛” to the ½” and make sure that either sticks out past the ends of the slot.  

 

Another solid answer! Thank you!

[ebinmaine 68,406]

2 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

Another solid answer! Thank you!

 

You pay right close attention to whatever @Handy Don says.

[Tonytoro416 1,067]

I made shims for the sprayer attachment.  Definitely didn’t like the slop created by the narrower bar stock 

[Racinbob 11,232]

That slot hitch will hold a lot more than you'd think. Prior the outstanding receiver hitches from Lowell I used the bar stock with a ball in the slot hitch. For the pin I had a grade 9 through the slot hitch and down through the drawbar. That kept it from pushing upwards. We has a 30' travel trailer at the time ad I moved it all over with the 76. I don't recall the tongue weight but it sure made things grunt when I lowered it on the hitch and the only way to keep the front end down was to hook up the snowblower on the front. Just to be safer   I always had the tongue jack lowered to within a couple inches of the ground just in case the cable let go. Never happened. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Bar Nuthin 541]

3 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

That slot hitch will hold a lot more than you'd think. Prior the outstanding receiver hitches from Lowell I used the bar stock with a ball in the slot hitch. For the pin I had a grade 9 through the slot hitch and down through the drawbar. That kept it from pushing upwards. We has a 30' travel trailer at the time ad I moved it all over with the 76. I don't recall the tongue weight but it sure made things grunt when I lowered it on the hitch and the only way to keep the front end down was to hook up the snowblower on the front. Just to be safer   I always had the tongue jack lowered to within a couple inches of the ground just in case the cable let go. Never happened. 

 

That would be awesome to see a photo of your tractor hooked to a 30' trailer if you have one to share.!

[Racinbob 11,232]

42 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

That would be awesome to see a photo of your tractor hooked to a 30' trailer if you have one to share.!

 

I probably have one but it would be in a box with hundreds of pre digital photos. I've been meaning to go through them and digitize them but I've been meaning to do that for years. 

Edited Friday at 12:52 PM by Racinbob