Made a change to the 520-H

[Lee1977 6,774]

Extended the control lever, easer to control. Might have to streghten the shifter pattern like Ed did on his 520-H

Edited December 12 by Lee1977

[kpinnc 12,358]

You can make one like this Don. I think used 1/4 inch aluminum so it won’t gouge the lever. 
 

G10 composite would work well too. 
 

Edited December 13 by kpinnc

[Lee1977 6,774]

I found my piece of 1/4" aluminum I had cut a one foot square off it for a router base. I didn't think I used it fot anything else. It's going to be a stright slot with a half round notch for nuteral. Then move the safety switch about 13 /16" .It works like it is now but in nuteral the shifter is inside the steering wheel. With all the extra movemevt of the lever makes more fine control of the hydro. I added 6 1/2" to the lever but the steering wheel was raised 1 3/4" when I fixed the worn out wheel. 

Edited December 13 by Lee1977

[peter lena 8,716]

@Lee1977  @kpinnc  like the  attempt at save , improvement , composite / slide ease, dare i say it , ? what about a 90 deg heim joint in that ?  https://www.google.com/search?q=90+degree+heim+joint&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=90+degree+heim+joint+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyDQgBEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyDQgCEAAYhgMYgAQYigXSAQkxMjcxMmowajSoAgCwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 , or similar for total ANGULARITY   ease ?  you are already outside the  original set up , if the change makes it smooth / easy / solid , why not ?  my original , heim joints were at angular transition points , eliminated the problem , and have been bombproof for years . don't worry I wont tell any one if you experiment , swivel joint , pete 

[Lee1977 6,774]

22 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Lee1977  @kpinnc  like the  attempt at save , improvement , composite / slide ease, dare i say it , ? what about a 90 deg heim joint in that ?  https://www.google.com/search?q=90+degree+heim+joint&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=90+degree+heim+joint+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyDQgBEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyDQgCEAAYhgMYgAQYigXSAQkxMjcxMmowajSoAgCwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 , or similar for total ANGULARITY   ease ?  you are already outside the  original set up , if the change makes it smooth / easy / solid , why not ?  my original , heim joints were at angular transition points , eliminated the problem , and have been bombproof for years . don't worry I wont tell any one if you experiment , swivel joint , pete 

I replaced the original 1/4" hiems joints with new brass lined hiems right after I got it. I don't have a Wheel Horse that doesn't have a few modifications on it.

[peter lena 8,716]

@Lee1977  as you are aware , with smooth  angular transition  , a problem becomes a non issue , changed out  , numerous angular engage ment points years ago , as said , you are right there , easy to do / try / experiment . pto lever set up is , ridiculous , in its simplicity / function , great spot to look at and  see feel  functional movement  ease . starts at  battery tray corner , stay at it , pete  

[Lee1977 6,774]

Got the plate made today now just need to get it bolted down.

Edited December 13 by Lee1977

[Handy Don 12,436]

3 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

Got the plate made today now just need to get it bolted down.

Don't you also have to cut the plate below so it’ll go into reverse without the offset path?

[Lee1977 6,774]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Don't you also have to cut the plate below so it’ll go into reverse without the offset path?

Yes, that's a easy part.  Here it is back together.

[Handy Don 12,436]

10 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

Yes, that's a easy part.  Here it is back together.

I'm thinking you probably locked the parking brake to force neutral and then aligned the notch to the lever, yes?

[Lee1977 6,774]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

I'm thinking you probably locked the parking brake to force neutral and then aligned the notch to the lever, yes?

I just put the notch at the same location it was originally. It just moved about 3/4" to the right.  Could need a minor adjustment, finished last night about 11:30.

[Handy Don 12,436]

52 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

I just put the notch at the same location it was originally. It just moved about 3/4" to the right.  Could need a minor adjustment, finished last night about 11:30.

I’m going to upgrade a 312 and a 520 to have foot pedal motion control using recently bought kits. We’ve been debating whether to remove the lever or leave the lever. Removing it means futzing with the neutral detector and eliminates any tactile feedback when switching from forward to reverse.

Now I’m leaning toward doing something like what you did--leave the lever but with a very shallow notch in an added plate--just enough to “feel" neutral with my foot as the lever moves through. I’d also relocate the neutral safety switch to it can detect when the lever is at the notch. Eventually I might cut down the lever so it sticks up only a few inches so manual control is possible but not in the way.

Thanks for the idea.

Edited December 14 by Handy Don

[Lee1977 6,774]

It has a slite creep forward but not enough to  redjust.  I have half of 1/2" circle with the edges radiused, works good with the lever, might not need it that deep.

Might want to check with Ed don't think his has a notch, maybe he just uses the brake.

There is a picture of Ed;s in " Hydro handle swap question" by  Moparfanforver.

Edited December 15 by Lee1977

[Handy Don 12,436]

On 12/14/2024 at 2:43 PM, Lee1977 said:

Might want to check with Ed don't think his has a notch, maybe he just uses the brake.

 

Ed does not have a notch and he has spring-loaded his pedal to go full reverse on release!

He holds it in neutral using the brake pedal for starting and shutdown.

The kits I bought are faithful copies of the original WH factory option using the single “toe-heel” rocker pedal. These do not have a “return to neutral” spring. I think of it as a foot-operated lever.