Leland 16 #1 Posted December 10, 2024 can anybody tell me why the snow blower when raised up in the locked position with the lever that it releases when moving and falls down . Does not do it with the plow as the snow blower is heavier I assume. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gasaholic 254 #2 Posted December 10, 2024 Probably worn out lift lever latch detent, or possibly weak button return spring. Can also be worn out rock shaft bushings, missing e-clip. First let implement down far enough so you can look at the detent notch on the side (Some machines have the notch inside the side panel, depends on you rmodel) and see if it appears to be hogged out and sloped , then take a look at the lift button detent rod end (L-shaped) and see if it looks bent or worn down, look for gunk keeping things from full travel, does the lift rod return fully when you press button down (can you pull it up further?) - that'd be indicative of worn or broken return spring.. (Oh yeah, also make sure the hand grip is fully seated on lift lever tube..) Replacement of the detent rod/lift button involves removing the whole lift lever assembly and rockshaft (lot of side panels to remove) and disassembly. Bushings (depending on which side) can be easy or difficult to replace. Does the lift arm rockshaft have a lot of side-to-side play (You'd pull off belt cover to check e-clip on that side anyways) they can also be shimmed for a bit tighter end play.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,954 #3 Posted December 10, 2024 What model tractor?? An assist spring may help to get a more neutral weight, but it is not a cure all for worn out lift lever parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leland 16 #4 Posted December 10, 2024 (edited) 312-8 and it does have the side to side play and I did take off the side cover but could not see any place to adjust it or even how to shim to go in further or should I say up. Also when it is all the way locked up the lever will move some front to back. the hand grip is all the way down. How would you bend the L shape latch ? The button return spring = Is that under the hand grip? Edited December 10, 2024 by Leland Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,954 #5 Posted December 10, 2024 Download the repair manual for your year tractor - I believe there were changes over the years.The exploded view will explain a lot.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leland 16 #6 Posted December 10, 2024 ok thanks. is there a free manual as seems like have to pay to get one from wherever Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne0 920 #7 Posted December 10, 2024 11 minutes ago, Leland said: ok thanks. is there a free manual as seems like have to pay to get one from wherever You can get it here for free. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leland 16 #8 Posted December 10, 2024 11 minutes ago, Wayne0 said: You can get it here for free. I do not see a link Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,954 #9 Posted December 10, 2024 Are you looking on the Browse Manuals section?? Upper left near the WH Icon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leland 16 #10 Posted December 10, 2024 ok got it thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,241 #11 Posted December 10, 2024 Guess on the model year https://www.partstree.com/models/r1-12k802-312-8-toro-garden-tractor-1990/manual-lift-linkage-26/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leland 16 #12 Posted December 11, 2024 15 hours ago, gwest_ca said: Guess on the model year https://www.partstree.com/models/r1-12k802-312-8-toro-garden-tractor-1990/manual-lift-linkage-26/ thank you great work on your part Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,085 #13 Posted December 11, 2024 @Leland those schematic drawings are great at exposing long neglected , service areas . thanks @gwest_ca often refer to a problem / service area , as a gold mine for improvement , typical consul mount spot is easily exposed , with top 4 phillips head screws , knock r loose penetrant with extension tube will get the rust moving , regular stuff for me . that lever spring push point is a great start spot , also note rusty end point movement areas, make the rust run out , those bronze crosse consul bushings , also need a drink . while you are at it 3-1 small can penetrating oil , is great on / in saposed to be cabling, makes choke and throttle , cables work with out , dry scraping noise. regularly go after anything thats acting up / change it / improve it , just the way I get after a repetitive issue , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leland 16 #14 Posted December 11, 2024 thanks for all the help and attached is a HOPEFULLY fix which took a while. If anything is rusty would have to be in the spring area on top as this tractor has always been stored in a heated garage since I had it but our son did use it for a few years but stored it in a shed and no rust anywhere I can see actually looks like a little grees or spary oil around the L shaped rod where it latches in. . Now I cannot gurantee what I did in the picture will hold up and after many tries and errors ( mostly error) then a quick ride out the garage over a slight bump and down the road a little = So far so good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites