dgoyette 12 #1 Posted September 10, 2009 I am thinking of changing the fluid in the FEL as I have no idea how old it is or even what it is. Can someone tell me if what the ARK 550 uses? Is it 10W-30? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim_M 178 #2 Posted September 10, 2009 I use TSC hydraulic fluid in mine. I'm pretty sure it's 20W high detergent. I wouldn't use motor oil, it will foam on you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #3 Posted September 10, 2009 I forget what Ark used but KW loaders use motor oil. Should be easier to tell whats in yours after draining the old stuff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,645 #4 Posted September 10, 2009 The WH loader on the D series (not 250s) 07-48FL01 is made by Ark and the manual calls for 10w-30. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
defed 0 #5 Posted September 10, 2009 the manual for the 07-72FL01 (D-250 loader) states #5 hydraulic oil or type A power steering fluid. according to the parts lists, both loaders use the same pump and cylinders...so i guess you make your own interpretation on that! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgoyette 12 #6 Posted September 10, 2009 The WH loader on the D series (not 250s) 07-48FL01 is made by Ark and the manual calls for 10w-30. Thanks very much. I didn't think that model number 07-48FL01 didn't seem right. My manufacturing tag says Model : 7-3050 Serial : 1540 Is this the same loader? Thanks for the help. I have never changed the fluid in an FEL before. I assume I release the pressure, drain and refill? Any idea how much 10W-30 she takes? BTW I moved 12 yards of 3/4 crush gravel with the D today and she performed awesome. I have pics to post soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,645 #7 Posted September 11, 2009 I couldn't find your model number 7-3050 at the toro site to look at it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgoyette 12 #8 Posted September 11, 2009 I couldn't find it either. I took a bit out to look at it and could not tell what it was. I brought it to NAPA and they thought it was Hydraulic Oil. So I got some of that. I guess it would not hurt to put that in would it? I took out the screw that is about 6 inches from the controls and no fluid came out so I know the system is low. So at the least I need to add some but thought I might as well change it. Possible foaming I guess? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d180man 5 #9 Posted September 11, 2009 Hi our 550 on our d list motor oil i this 10w-30 is right ? but would have to look it up! :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
defed 0 #10 Posted September 11, 2009 i believe that the D-auto (07-48FL01) manual calls for 10w-30 while the D-250 (07-72FL01) manual calls for hydraulic oil. since they both use the same pump, cylinders and spool valves, i would presume it is safe to use either. so if it already has motor oil in it, use motor oil. if it already has hydraulic oil, use that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgoyette 12 #11 Posted September 11, 2009 Thanks! I did return the Napa Hydraulic oil and am going to go 10W-30. I figured even if it was Hydraulic oil in there it would be better to go 10W-30. Even though my model number is a bit bizarre (can't find any info on it at all!), I am going to go with the WH recommendation for the 07-48FLO1. I put some 10W-30 in today to get it to drip out of the full check hole and it took 3/4 quart. This made the pump quite a bit quieter it seemed. The oil that is in there looks thin and dirty so I will be happy to get it all out. What is the best way to flush the system? I know I can get the upright drained but that will leave a lot in all the hoses and pump right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgoyette 12 #12 Posted September 12, 2009 Well I put the 10W-30 in and absolutly no hydraulic pressure now. It only took 3 quarts to fill so I may have a mix of 3 quarts hydraulic with 3 quarts of oil. Bummer - any idea why I would have no lift? This system self purges air right? Thanks! EDIT: Update - I am back in business. It is working at a good speed with full lift but struggles under a heavy load. Maybe just keep working it. I need to likely flush again. If this were your FEL would you go with 10W-30 or AW Hydraulic? I have seen two manuals that indicate either and it seems like from what defed says it is the same system for both. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d180man 5 #13 Posted September 12, 2009 Hi here is what our book has ! hope you can read it it did not copy that good! or you can go to the photo here http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll56/ar...rs/scan0001.jpg :ychain: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
defed 0 #14 Posted September 12, 2009 my book says the exact same thing, except it says hydraulic oil instead of 10w-30/40. i would put back what was in it. i was talking to my dad about it and he said it is possible that even tho the cylinders and pump have the same part #, that the older models (not sure which between the 2) could suffer from the wrong oil, as the seals might not like the other oil...and that the newer model cylinders would probably work w/ both, but possibly the older ones wouldn't. not sure about it all, it was just his opinion on why there would be 2 different recommendations for similar models. even in that case....it would only leak oil at the seals, not really affect performance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgoyette 12 #15 Posted September 12, 2009 Well great news. I was able to obtain copies of the loader manual from the fellow I bought it from. I contacted him and he got back to me that he thought hydraulic and he had copies of the manual for me. It is a comprehensive manual and even has break down for the hydaulic pump and controls with part numbers. Also dealer pricing from 1976. Really cool. The D series dealer cost in 1976 for a 550 was $616.35. The 48" bucket was $67.30 Awesome! The manual says it is for the ARK 550 for Wheel Horses and there is paperwork from 1976 with it so I think it is the original that came with it. It does say hydraulic so I am going to switch back and just stick with hydraulic. Hate to lose more oil but it was a good flush of dirt and dirty fluid anyway. We will see how she runs tomorrow. I dumped the oil and ran Hydraulic from Napa thourgh 10 minutes ago. I am going to do this once more tomorrow. I think I may have air trapped because it is not nearly as strong as before. Do you guys change with the cylinders retracted and then fill to the oil check hole from there? Or It would seem the reservoir would be full at this point and empty to extend the cylinders. Thanks guys - appreciate the help very much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d180man 5 #16 Posted September 12, 2009 Hi sent you a pm! but when we did ours we did it with them retracted ! but i think it would be the same retracted or extend! but we had to work then go back and put a little more oil in it after working the cyl. thanks for the email! :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgoyette 12 #17 Posted September 16, 2009 Just an update to complete the thread. I noticed the pump sounded louder when I was dumping and lowering the loader bucket. So I tightened the belt off the PTO - no big change. I then noted that when lifting the bucket with gravel in it the pump was turning very slowly but full speed lowering. Well turns out the PTO clutch was slipping so I tightened the the clutch linkage by adjusting the turnbuckle. Seems to work great now. Not sure if it is just coincidence that this happened at the time I changed the fluid. But I suspect maybe it was like that before but the thinner fluid in the hydraulic system was not heavy enough to cause the clutch to slip. The new heavier weight fluid just showed that the clutch needed adjustment. So I now have full lift power back. Darren 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 617 #18 Posted November 22, 2016 On 9/16/2009 at 7:06 PM, dgoyette said: Just an update to complete the thread. I noticed the pump sounded louder when I was dumping and lowering the loader bucket. So I tightened the belt off the PTO - no big change. I then noted that when lifting the bucket with gravel in it the pump was turning very slowly but full speed lowering. Well turns out the PTO clutch was slipping so I tightened the the clutch linkage by adjusting the turnbuckle. Seems to work great now. Not sure if it is just coincidence that this happened at the time I changed the fluid. But I suspect maybe it was like that before but the thinner fluid in the hydraulic system was not heavy enough to cause the clutch to slip. The new heavier weight fluid just showed that the clutch needed adjustment. So I now have full lift power back. Darren I am having a similar problem so thanks for the tip about checking the PTO to make sure the pump is being driven properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites