Leaving Plow and Wheel Weights on all year?

[SylvanLakeWH 25,965]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

A hunk/chunk/section/piece of metal coat hanger would even get ya outta trouble. Not permanent... but usable.  

Did they have coat hangers on the Mayflower??? 

[Alrashid2 310]

You guys are too much haha. I'll go see what I can find tomorrow and report back!

 

Thanks boys 

[Bar Nuthin 542]

45 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

What's the name of the wire

Search 9 gauge galvanized wire

Project Source 9-Gauge Utility Picture Hanging Wire 91003ZCVLG at Lowes.com

[Alrashid2 310]

2 minutes ago, Bar Nuthin said:

Search 9 gauge galvanized wire

Project Source 9-Gauge Utility Picture Hanging Wire 91003ZCVLG at Lowes.com

Ha talk about serendipity. Been searching for 15 min and just found that on the Lowe's site not even 2 min ago! Thank you 

[oliver2-44 9,872]

If you have access to any of the wire they use to hang acoustical tile ceilings it will work 

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

A  20 inch 250 lb zip tie would also work to connect your existing wire to the lever.  And it is adjustable.  I use  a small turnbuckle to keep a little tension on mine.

 

[Alrashid2 310]

Hey guys, plow related question for you. When I got my plow with lift link it has no hardware.

 

I found some clevis pins that fit. However I noticed they start to twist and sit cock eyed when lifting. The lift arm and plow frame are not perfectly in line so the connection between the two and the lift link is angled. Didn't think that was kosher.

 

If I install a nut and bolt on the plow side of the link, it tightened it all up. Is using a nut and bolt OK instead of the clevis pin and cotter pin?

[ebinmaine 68,406]

24 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

Is using a nut and bolt OK instead of the clevis pin and cotter pin?

 

That's what we do. 

 

In fact,  I take it a step further and use a grade 8 bolt that's long enough to have a non threaded part at the head. Then use a locking nut. Keeps things nice n snug. 

 

 

[Alrashid2 310]

Sweet! I saw all the old WH manuals all had cotters/clevis combos so just wanted to make sure!

 

Love that - I'll get to the hardware store tomorrow and look for a Grade 8 bolt. Will take some measurements tonight. Thanks @ebinmaine!

 

By the way, picked up the wire this morning! This is exactly what I was picturing!

Edited December 19 by Alrashid2

[Handy Don 12,467]

3 hours ago, Alrashid2 said:

I'll get to the hardware store tomorrow and look for a Grade 8 bolt

 

11 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

long enough to have a non threaded part at the head

This is important. These are called shoulder bolts and the non-threaded part forms the pivot for the two arms. Having threads there will more quickly wear the holes in the arms and wear down the threads--bad due to the wear and bad making a deteriorating connection!

[Alrashid2 310]

Thanks, that makes sense! I'll make sure I can find one with a shoulder. Need the shoulder long enough to fully cover the arm hole, but short enough to get me threads up against the lift link for my nut... 

 

I suppose worst case I can just buy a bolt and grind down the threads where I need to 

[Handy Don 12,467]

5 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

I suppose worst case I can just buy a bolt and grind down the threads where I need to 

Nope, unless you buy a larger diameter bolt to do it with (and I don’t recommend this path). Grinding the threads makes the bolt smaller.

If the shoulder length is a bit long, use washers under the bolt head and nut (and, it isn’t a bad idea to put a thin washer between the arms).

[Bar Nuthin 542]

4 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

(and, it isn’t a bad idea to put a thin washer between the arms)

 

and since @peter lena hasn't chimed in yet - some grease at pivot points for smooth operation

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

11 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

That's what we do. 

 

In fact,  I take it a step further and use a grade 8 bolt that's long enough to have a non threaded part at the head. Then use a locking nut. Keeps things nice n snug. 

                                                                                                                                 

 

    No need for a shoulder bolt.    I also use a bolt with washers under the head to position the unthreaded shank of the bolt in the hole. Then use a flat washer and double nut to set the correct snug sliding fit.                                                                                 

[peter lena 8,726]

@Bar Nuthin  @Ed Kennell  agree with the shoulder bolts  for secure movement areas , 2 vital areas for those are on plows , top of lever squeeze handle , for plow swing , and right at bottom triangle wire pull point , allowing a washed up / lubricated swing / movement area , that can be dialed in with an elastic Lok nut , secure / yet smooth solid action . when you ELIMINATE  the no response ,squeeze lever , pull point , by tightening up the wire loop end holes , the entire lever pull is instant , to the quadrat spring / pin slide point , works with ridiculous ease , aerosol red grease . original set ups were ok for , for production assembly line building , but its the DETAILING  that makes those spots work without effort . done a lot of that on lever / linkage connection points , guy I sold a horse to , thought the PTO lever was broken , he was wrong , he was used to screaming / screeching engagement , also showed him how to not just slam on the drive , deck spun up quietly , probably blew it up , rotting in a field , pete   

[Alrashid2 310]

Well, besides a few unrelated mishaps today, I at least got the new wire connection onto the index lever!

 

Took a bit of trial and error to get it just right - not too loose, not too tight - and she is working perfectly.

 

Thanks guys! Will get some hardware for the lift link tomorrow 

Edited Friday at 01:56 AM by Alrashid2

[Alrashid2 310]

Back from the hardware store!

 

Found a 3/8" diameter bolt with a shoulder. To make it all work put it together in this order: 

 

-Bolt

-2 washers

-Lift Link

-Washer between

-Plow Frame

-2 washers

-Nylon lock nut

 

Put grease between all the components too as advised! Works like a charm and staying tight! Thanks guys

[Handy Don 12,467]

1 hour ago, Alrashid2 said:

Found a 3/8" diameter bolt with a shoulder. To make it all work put it together in this order

I took another way to do this, perhaps a bit “over the top,” for both mid-blade I’ve been fabricating and for a dozer blade I’ve been refurbishing. I welded short lengths of ⅜” smooth rod into the holes in the two lift links I’d made. The “stubs” are drilled at the ends for R-clips. I use washers as you did. The welding keeps the pins aligned and it’s pretty quick to install/remove with no tools.

Edited Friday at 11:18 PM by Handy Don

[Alrashid2 310]

Nice! One of these days I'll buy a welder and learn how to weld...

[Alrashid2 310]

Only an inch of snow here but I had to test her out! She made it up my 15% slope driveway while plowing just fine!

 

Will have to figure out something though. The dial a height didn't come in as handy as I thought as the driveway is so uneven. Likewise, when the plow is angled, it does not sit level so one side was hovering above the pavement but the other side was almost 2" above!

 

Scraping the driveway worked fine but my asphalt driveway is old, uneven, and patched to no end, so I don't want to damage it further.

 

What angle (hole) would you use for a cracked uneven asphalt driveway? Not sure if I should treat it like gravel and use the top hole... 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,965]

I would use the bottom hole in your situation so it doesn't dig in...

 

 

edit: oops... meant bottom... 

Edited Saturday at 08:43 PM by SylvanLakeWH

[ebinmaine 68,406]

46 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

What angle (hole) would you use for a cracked uneven asphalt driveway? Not sure if I should treat it like gravel and use the top hole..

Was it me, I'd tilt forward like we keep em here.  

[ebinmaine 68,406]

To ease in the tilt change you could swap the one long pin to a pair of small ones.  

[SylvanLakeWH 25,965]

35 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

To ease in the tilt change you could swap the one long pin to a pair of small ones.  

That's how I have mine... two bolts... and note my typo has been corrected above... I meant bottom hole... ugh.

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

30 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

I meant bottom hole... ugh.

Thanks, you had me worried.