Leaving Plow and Wheel Weights on all year?

[SylvanLakeWH 25,965]

 

Add a few feet of ramp...

[ebinmaine 68,406]

7 hours ago, Alrashid2 said:

I found if I pivoted the plow via the holes near the two springs to the top most hole, it moved the plow up and inch and I just barely cleared the shed floor... Wonder if it's fine to run the plow like that all the time. It did seem an extreme angle.

 

The angle of the plow blade is adjustable for good reason. 

Moving snow and moving different aggregates can be done better at different angles. 

We leave ours tilted "top forward" all year.

With our gravel/aggregate driveway surface that lessens the ability of the blade to dig in and down.  

If your blade works OK for your application in a BACK tilt then leave it. 

Just remember this angle will increase ability to dig - in and down. 

Also remember that if you do use the blade for snow, keep your amounts plowed, conservative. Otherwise the snow pile may go right over the top of the blade. Now you're stuck. 

 

 

7 hours ago, Alrashid2 said:

 

I also had the idea to drill a hole an inch down the metal flat bar that attaches the plow frame to the lift arm, which did help bring the plow frame a bit higher when raised. Maybe 3/4" space between the plow frame and front axle when raised now. Anyone else dealt with this?

 

Levers and fulcrums. 

If the center mount point doesn't change then adjusting the rear will change the front. 

 

Instead of drilling holes thereby weakening the assembly you can LOWER the mounts at the back. 

 

I have used a set of blocks an inch or two thick to lower the rear bracket. 

 

I do realize this may not be ideal for you considering you're trying to keep ground clearance at a maximum.  

 

Another thought might be to get a piece of flat bar for your center connection that can be drilled as needed to produce desired results,  then replace it with a new strong piece once the correct dimensions are found.  

 

 

 

As an aside.....

Knowing you're wanting to use this for rough work....

Have you put consideration to having a FRONT stabilizer for your plow frame?

 

 

[Alrashid2 310]

7 hours ago, Wayne0 said:

I had that same problem except with my 2 stage blower.

I wound up extending my ramp another 3 feet to lessen the angle.

Just makes it now.

@Wayne0 and @SylvanLakeWH maybe I'll do that! Not going to lie I had a hard enough time making this ramp so I'm not too keen to have to do it again... Shed is on a slope from left to right so took a lot of math and trial and error. Wasn't the funnest project!

 

@ebinmainethanks for your advice and for explaining the angles to me. Did some tests again and yup, only way I can make it into the shed is with the top most hole. I'm just doing a paved driveway and path through the woods and will use the dial a height to lift a half inch off the ground so hopefully the angle won't be as important for me! 

 

Thanks for the advice on height adjustment too. Yes, good thoughts but I rather not lose any more clearance in the back. I did already end up drilling an additional hole in the piece but it seems solid still. Worst case I can do what you said and just make a new one I suppose. Seems like pretty solid steel nonetheless!

 

I actually didn't even know what a front stabilizer was until you mentioned and I googled! I think I'm going to keep this simple and just stick with what I got for now. If I run into problems, i'll then think of any additions. Hell, I may end up taking the plow off altogether as I have a nice snowblower too! 

 

Brian at K&B said he has a lever with the angles for me. 40 bucks. He sent a photo but it almost looks like it is lacking the hole at the top for the bolt that the latch mechanism pivots on. He said the part number is 104340. I also noticed a hole drilled half way down the lever, that my lever does not have...

 

You guys think this is the right part? And what's the middle hole for?

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

1 hour ago, Alrashid2 said:

 

You guys think this is the right part? And what's the middle hole for?

That is the lever I had to use on my312H.    I use the middle hole to bolt on a small clamp to guide the wire that pulls the sector pin.

Not sure why the top hole would be missing.  May be full of paint.

 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,965]

 

And notice the spacers etc. in Ed's pic above...don't be shy using washers, spacers whatever to clear the pedal... a little love is usually needed to line things up... 

[Alrashid2 310]

Thanks @SylvanLakeWH and @Ed Kennell! Now that I have my plow on and understand the geometry of it all more, I'm studying Ed's photo... so why did you install the spacer there? It is pushing the lever outward more - was your lever hitting the muffler or body/hood of the tractor? 

 

Currently on my setup, the only issue is the lever hitting my brake pedal. I don't think I'll need spacers - if anything I'll have to bend the lever inward even more! My straight lever is currently not hitting the hood, muffler, or anything else except the pedal. 

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

Just now, Alrashid2 said:

was your lever hitting the muffler or body/hood of the tractor? 

No,  if you look at the upper section you can see it is actually inside the lever support.  I needed it in this location to clear the pedal and the motion control bar I have bolted to the pedal lug.

I probably could have used a straight flat lever with a slight inward bend, but this is the lever I had.     I know your pedal is different as mine is a custom made motion control pedal for the hydro.

With this arrangement though you should be able to position the upper lever left to right to clear the pedal.

[Alrashid2 310]

Ah I think I understand now. Yes your setup is a tad different than me - I see now without the spacer you'd hit that bolted on section. Thanks for explaining!

 

Hopefully me and Brian from K&B can get this ordered tomorrow and I'll get her setup soon!

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

14 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

get this ordered tomorrow and I'll get her setup soon!

Better hurry, we have an inch of snow now and it's headed your way.

[Alrashid2 310]

Ha! Just saw that - it's looking like it'll all be rain here luckily. But we'll see!

[Alrashid2 310]

Hey guys, any of you know what these 2 tabs are on the bottom of my plow? With the angle I have my plow set at, I wouldn't be surprised if these end up wearing down as the wear bar wears... just curious and want to make sure I'm not wrecking something important

Edited December 16 by Alrashid2

[Handy Don 12,467]

I’m not sure they should be touching the ground with the angle set correctly. Earlier blades did not have them--and some of those had adjustable skids.

I have noticed on my son’s, that with the blade off the frame, the tabs hold the blade standing upright.

Otherwise 

Edited December 16 by Handy Don

[Alrashid2 310]

Thanks for weighing in @Handy Don. Ya you are probably right, but unfortunately I need as much clearance as I can and having the plow angled this way allows for an additional 1.5" of ground clearance compared to the default angle position. Interesting earlier blades didn't have them - maybe I'll just take the angle grinder and cut them off, haha... 

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

Those tabs are the trip spring stops.   They should have 1" clearance when the blade is down.

 

                             Tab clearance

 

                                                        Tab hits sector and stops blade from tripping too far

 

                  

[Alrashid2 310]

Ah interesting, thanks @Ed Kennell. In what situation would the springs move toward those tabs though? If I'm thinking of it correctly, the springs should only move upward, and not be able to compress anymore than possible? 

 

Edit: or maybe those tabs are just to stop the trip springs from hitting the ground when the plow is disconnected from the frame? 

Edited December 16 by Alrashid2

[Bar Nuthin 541]

8 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

Ah interesting, thanks @Ed Kennell. In what situation would the springs move toward those tabs though? If I'm thinking of it correctly, the springs should only move upward, and not be able to compress anymore than possible? 

 When the blade hits strong enough resistance, it folds forward to avoid damage - stretching the springs.  The stops prevent it from folding completely down flat against the ground..

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

2 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

Ah interesting, thanks @Ed Kennell. In what situation would the springs move toward those tabs though? If I'm thinking of it correctly, the springs should only move upward, and not be able to compress anymore than possible? 

The springs are there to hold the blade upright.   When plowing and the bottom of the blade hits an obstruction( a curb, a crack in the pavement, a tree root, etc.)  the blade will trip forward to a horizontal position stretching the springs and allowing the blade to pass over the obstruction.    After passing the obstruction, the springs will pull the blade back up to working position.

Those tabs only prevent the blade from tripping too far for the springs to reset the blade upright.

In the second picture the blade is tripped forward to the horizontal position.

 

 

[Alrashid2 310]

Ah I understand now, so just from the "recoil" basically of folding forward, the stops stop the springs from bouncing backward and hitting the ground... got it, thank you guys!

[Ed Kennell 38,684]

6 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said:

Ah I understand now,

Ah, not quite.   The tabs do nothing when the springs are pulling the blade back to the vertical working position.   The springs themselves stop and hold the blade in the upright position.

The tabs only stop the blade from going too far forward when it is tripped .

 

You can stand on the top of your blade and force it forward to the tripped position and watch the function of the springs and tabs.

This is what I did to take these pics.

Edited December 16 by Ed Kennell

[Alrashid2 310]

Welp, got my updated index lever today from Brian @ K-B Horse parts. Thanks Brian!

 

Unfortunately it's one step forward, two steps backwards...

 

The lever clears the brake pedal - yay! However, this lever is about 5" longer than the older straight lever... Now the wire connecting the latch mechanism is 5" too short!

 

I've thought of two options:

 

1. Cut the new lever 5" shorter with an angle grinder, and drill a new hole 5" down. Id prefer not to do this as I risk cutting/drilling something wrong.

 

2. Make myself a new, longer metal wire (called the upper index rod in the parts diagram, #19). This one looks much simpler and less permanent/risky! Get some thick wire, cut to length, bend onto either latch, and good to go!

 

My only issue with Option 2 is I'm not sure where to find sturdy metal wire like that... Not even sure what the right term is for what I need to Google or ask for at Ace...

 

Any ideas boys? Appreciate the help here - snow in bound Friday so I'm up against the clock at this point!

 

P.S. Why does the new lever have 2 holes for the latch mechanism???

Edited December 18 by Alrashid2

[SylvanLakeWH 25,965]

Just get wire at the hardware store... standard stuff. Cut to fit.

 

Don't worry about extra holes... after 40 plus years these things have previous owner holes everywhere... adds character, like Swiss cheese. 

[Alrashid2 310]

3 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Just get wire at the hardware store... standard stuff. Cut to fit.

 

Don't worry about extra holes... after 40 plus years these things have previous owner holes everywhere... adds character, like Swiss cheese. 

Ha! I do love cheese... 

 

I probably sound stupid here. But I'm learning as I go. What's the name of the wire? What aisle am I looking? What's it's usual use? Tried looking online and I'm just finding fencing and electrical wire... 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,965]

Take a piece of your existing wire in and match it. If you can, go to a real hardware store for some help... 

 

You're overthinking this... match the wire and cut it... it'll be fine... mine looks like it was used on the Mayflower and it's still going strong... it does not have a tough job.

[ebinmaine 68,406]

2 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

mine looks like it was used on the Mayflower

[ebinmaine 68,406]

A hunk/chunk/section/piece of metal coat hanger would even get ya outta trouble. Not permanent... but usable.