Gear Shift won't allow shifting

[John A 20]

My Wheelhorse 308-8 is giving me a problem with shifting. The sifter is not allowing me to select a gear when I attempt to shift.  The problem began late summer and is getting worse.  Once engaged in the selected gear, all is good. It does not out of gear.  Looking for some suggestions.  

 

I have had the tractor for over 20 years and find it handy for pulling a cart and some small mowing jobs.  I would rather not get a cheap replacement for occasional use.  The engine starts easily and has the power to do the jobs I use it for.   Off course the range of gears due to the 8-speed manual transmission is a bonus with heavy loads or on hills.  The selector for the two-speed rear works fine.  The problem is limited to the selection of either of the 3 forward and reverse gears. 

 

Thanks

John 

Crestwood, KY 

[My_horse 6]

If it’s like my 314-8, there’s a long setscrew around the base of the shift rod. Mine was broken. I got a new one and was able to shift correctly again. 

[wallfish 17,078]

If the high low shifter is stuck in between Hi Low it can't spin the trans. But the regular shifter would still feel normal like it's shifting correctly

If the regular shifter 1 2 3 rev feels loose or sloppy then you should remove the shifter and inspect it and the dog point set screw which holds it in place. Lift the rubber boot off and you will see the dog point screw in the front of the shifter

[stevasaurus 22,841]

A few questions...1. does it grind when trying to select a gear?  2.  Do you have to kill the engine inoder to shift?  3. Does it feel like something inside is keeping the shifter from moving the shift fork?  

   I agree at this point with My-Horse...the 1st and easiest thing to check is the set screw holding the shifter in place.  Is the shifter sloppy?

 

   

[wallfish 17,078]

The thing that seems get more frequent as they age is the gears butting into each other when shifting and it won't go right into gear.

Lifting the clutch pedal and pushing it back down spins the gears inside to a different position and then it'll go into gear

[stevasaurus 22,841]

Use a 1/8" allen wrench and after lossening the lock nut back out the set screw.  Pull out the shifter and use a long screw driver to see if you can move the shift forks into the different gear positions.  That should tell you if the issue is inside the trans.  Check out the shifter it self...is the set screw broke?...is the ball on the shifter loose?...was the set screw loose? 

[kpinnc 12,358]

There are several things that can cause the issue you’re having. A couple have already been mentioned. 
 

1. The set screw in the shifter must be in place and tight. 
 

2. The belt guard must be installed. 
 

3. Belt must be in serviceable condition, and be the proper size. 
 

4. All of the previous lead to the following: the belt must stop moving to allow shifting. 
 

I have swapped some pulleys on a couple of my 8-speeds. Sometimes doing this means occasionally I have to “rock” back and forth to change gears. Obviously my belt length choices could be optimized. You may have a similar issue. 

[953 nut 55,734]

Have you changed the gear oil lately?  Does the 310 sit outside where rainwater could have gotten into the transmission?

Lots of good information and pictures in this thread.

 

[John A 20]

I appreciate the suggestions as to what may be the issue with my Wheel Horse.   From these suggestions, I have plenty of things to check.  I was concerned that a fix would require a complete tear down of the transmission.  

A couple of comments:   

1. The tractor while old is kept in a garage on a small barn when not in use
2. The boot for the shifter is in good condition and was replaced a few years back.  (recommendation from a member)
3. While I have not changed the oil in the transmission, it looks okay to me and is at the level of the fill plug
4. The high / low shifter works fine.  Much better than my 2005 tractor.  
5. The shifter in question is very loose or sloppy.  If I keep the clutch depressed and wiggle the shifter rod with PATIENCE, I can get into the desired gear.   Once in gear, all is good until the next shift.    I don't shift on the fly.  

 I think the first thing is for me to remove the boot and look inside the opening with a good light and inspect.  From the comments, I suspect there will be a very loose screw, or it is missing.  

 

I will give more feedback after the inspection. 

 

Thanks,

John 

Crestwood, KY

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,090]

When you remove the shifter you will see a donut near the bottom of it. Some donuts are secured to the shifter by a roll pin. Others are welded. If the pin shears it allows to donut to pivot on the shaft so most of the shifter action is lost. 

The roll pin hole is shared with the shifter set screw that retains the shifter in the transmission. The donut must not spin on the shifter.

[Pullstart 63,080]

@John A your symptoms surely seem like they are fixable with either a shifter repair or some fine tuning in that department.  I believe an 1/8” Allen key and a 7/16” 12 point box end wrench will be your friends here, besides possibly a welder.  If that roll pin is sheared, you can remove the bad parts, re-align the donut and shaft, and weld the bottom of the two pieces together.  A good 1/2” weld bead should be plenty to keep the two pieces in place 

[John A 20]

I tried to adjust the long set screw.  I was only able to tightened it about a 1/2 turn.  That did not work.  No change. I could not shift gears. 

 

Next,  I removed the set screw from the case.  It appears okay.  The set screw is blunted on the transmission end where it contacts the donut or collar.  When I lifted the shifter rod out of the transmission the donut remained in the transmission case.  I was able to simply remove it with a finger.

To me, it appears that a pin is used to connect these two parts and it has sheared.   As, the holes on the shifter and donut are plugged with metal. Presumably the remains of a pin.  Is the pin made of harden steel?   I was not able to see either a part or part number on a “PARTS TREE” Schematic.    Any Suggestion?  

 

[wallfish 17,078]

36 minutes ago, John A said:

Any Suggestion?

Weld the donut back on.

Yes, it can be pinned too and you should be able to punch out those pin pieces and just replace it

[John A 20]

Thanks for the comment.   

I will try to get the broken pieces out and get a pin at the hardware store.  I imagine a standard nail would be too soft. 

 

I don't have a way to weld the donut to the rod but can check with a former body shop owner and neighbor. 

 

John

[rmaynard 15,580]

The dog-point set screws should look like this.

 

The end should not be blunt.

The ball at the end of the shifter has a roll pin holding it on. That pin is driven in so that it's flush with the back of the ball, and deep enough on the front to allow the point of the dog-point to enter.

 

Also, you mentioned that the level of the oil was at the filler plug.

If this is an 8-speed, Uni Drive transmissions, it hold two quarts of oil. If the level is only at the plug, you are about 8 ounces too low. If this transmission has a dip stick, add and measure there. 

Edited December 10 by rmaynard

[Handy Don 12,436]

17 hours ago, John A said:

Is the pin made of harden steel?  

Yes. Roll pins are spring steel and can ruin ordinary high speed steel bits. Best by far is to apply penetrant and punch them out with a properly-sized roll pin punch.

Edited December 10 by Handy Don

[John A 20]

Thanks to all for the informative feedback. 

 

The broken pieces in the Donut and shift rod came out with little effort.  I can see it is a small roll pin cleaved in half.   Amazing it had held up this long.  I should be able to get a replacement at an automotive or hardware store.  May need to buy an assortment. 

I ordered the set screw and should get it within a few days. 

 

I will post after I get the parts in place. 

 

John

[John A 20]

I was able to repair the transmission problem on my 1986, Model 308-8, Wheel Horse with a $0.69, 5/32 x 1" tension spring (roll pin) from my local Hardware Store.     The tractor is now drive able and all 8 gears can be selected on the Wheel Horse tractor

Ater removing the gear shifter, donut, broken tension spring and set screw, the only thing needed was a new tension spring or roll pin.   A 1/8'" diameter roll tension was too small. It wouldn't secure the donut snuggly to the sifter rod.  Initially, I thought a new set screw was needed, but after cleaning, it looked great, so it was reinstalled.  I did order one, which is expected it any day.   

 

Below are three pictures you may find of interest. 

• 1409    - shifter with donut and 5/32" tension spring
• 1412 -  the original broken tension spring and the set screw
• 1414 -   the shifter rod with the donut held in place with the 5/32" tension spring

I really appreciate all the feedback and suggestions on how to repair my Tractor.  

Hopefully my experience can help another member.  These are great machines. 

 

John 

Crestwood, KY

[rmaynard 15,580]

Good job!