TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #51 Posted December 9 Urghhh! Well I guess I got too excited. Cranked great all last night and 2 times today, hooked spark test on and have good spark on both cylinders. Took off the spark tester and was good for one more crank. Then put fuel in it and didn’t crank when I went again. Took of the ignition plug fuse and wiring all was good. Put it back on and cranked. Then took the fuel filter off till I got fuel coming out and went to go and crank again and nothing, Checked ignition plug wiring harness good. But fuse is blown again. I didn’t like how the pedal interlock safety wires were loose so I replaced those. Help? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,827 #52 Posted December 10 2 hours ago, TonyToro Jr. said: But fuse is blown again. Got a loose wire or bad insulation going to ground someplace. Remove the fuse, use a 12 volt test light in place of the fuse. Wiggle all wires and connectors and when you see the light come on you have found something that is going to ground causing the short that blows the fuse. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #53 Posted December 10 3 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Got a loose wire or bad insulation going to ground someplace. Remove the fuse, use a 12 volt test light in place of the fuse. Wiggle all wires and connectors and when you see the light come on you have found something that is going to ground causing the short that blows the fuse. Thank you! I was actually thinking that too. The wires on the pedal safety switch I didn’t like how they were loose so I changed those now nice and tight. Tommorow I will do the test light. Thanks for your help everybody with this restoration I really appreciate it. I know my dad does too! Have to go and pick up some SFE-20 fuses after school tommorow since we have none left 😂. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #54 Posted December 10 Did more testing. All the wiring passed inspection with the test light. However when I wigged the wires for the ignition switch when I tried to start it nothing, wiggled the wiring plug to the ignition switch and popped fuse. Is the ignition switch bad? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,827 #55 Posted December 10 3 hours ago, TonyToro Jr. said: Is the ignition switch bad? sounds like that could be the problem.l 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #56 Posted December 11 Ordered an ignition switch from Napa today. We’ll see if it does the trick tommorow 🤞. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #57 Posted December 12 Electrical problem day whatever I can’t remember We Got the new ignition switch in today. Still popping fuses. We tested from the positive side of the solenoid to the positive side of the amp meter had good continuity. Tested from the positive side of amp meter to the center post of the solenoid and also had continuity. Is it supposed to have continuity to those 2 posts? The negetaive side of amp meter wire goes to the battery position on the ignition switch. Please yep it’s eating my shorts! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,348 #58 Posted December 12 When you blow a fuse you have a short to ground. Did you get the correct switch? A battery ignition switch and a Magneto switch look identical. A Mag switch on a battery system will blow a fuse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #59 Posted December 12 Yes we got the correct ignition switch. It is the exact number right from the manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 541 #60 Posted December 13 13 hours ago, TonyToro Jr. said: Yes we got the correct ignition switch. It is the exact number right from the manual. When is the fuse blowing? As soon as you turn the key to run, or when you turn the key to start? Also, are you still using the wire connector for the ignition switch, or are you wiring direct? It's easy to get confused when looking at the back side of the switch. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #61 Posted December 13 It is blowing when we click it at the run position. I’m still using the original connector for the ignition switch. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 541 #62 Posted December 13 1 hour ago, TonyToro Jr. said: It is blowing when we click it at the run position. I’m still using the original connector for the ignition switch. Then I have to agree with the others - sounds like a hot wire shorting out to ground somewhere. I'd go back to the test method that @953 nut suggested. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #63 Posted December 14 Doing more testing. The center post on the solenoid has continuity to ground. We put the test lead on a ground and the other test lead on the center post, and it made continuity I don’t think it should have ground since it’s a signal wire. Thoughts help? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 541 #64 Posted December 14 37 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said: Doing more testing. The center post on the solenoid has continuity to ground. We put the test lead on a ground and the other test lead on the center post, and it made continuity I don’t think it should have ground since it’s a signal wire. Thoughts help? Actually, I think it should show continuity to ground. When you turn the key to "Start" voltage is sent to that terminal which needs a ground in order to charge the magnet and close the circuit between the battery and starter. Disclaimer - there are guys a lot smarter than me on here, but that's my understanding of how it should work. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,348 #65 Posted December 14 (edited) If and I mean If, the coil inside the solenoid is shorted, yes it could blow the fuse. Disconnect everything after the switch. Hook them up one at a time and try turning the key as you connect them. When the fuse blows you will find the component or related wire with the short. Edited December 14 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,827 #66 Posted December 15 On 12/13/2024 at 3:05 PM, TonyToro Jr. said: blowing when we click it at the run position You are looking in the wrong place, the solenoid and clutch switch don't see any power until you are in the start position. In the RUN position there is power coming from the ignition switch to the ignition coil through the PTO switch. Also, power from the ignition switch to the center tab on the voltage regulator/rectifier. Also, to the 20 amp fuse that goes to the hour meter and light switch. You need to look at these wires to see where the short is occurring. If you remove the 20 amp fuse and the problem goes away then it would be beyond that fuse If you unplug the voltage regulator and the problem goes away then the voltage regulator or tis plug are likely to be the problem. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #69 Posted December 16 Sorry haven’t worked on the tractor since the last post. Had a town Christmas parade that we were in with ICU small engine. (This is the guy whose neighbor I got the tractor from). Probably will work on it again today and will get back to you. Hopefully we can figure it out 🤞 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #70 Posted December 18 Worked on the tractor yesterday. Don’t want to spoil anything so you guys need to wait until I get home!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,607 #71 Posted December 18 Well here you go! IMG_0040.mov 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bar Nuthin 541 #73 Posted December 19 (edited) Edited December 19 by Bar Nuthin 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites