TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #26 Posted November 27 Here’s some more pictures hopefully they help. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #27 Posted November 27 1 hour ago, TonyToro Jr. said: more pictures The item below the solenoid is most likely your kill relay, at that time small metal cased relays were being used. Don't worry about the relay unless you run into some sort of ignition problems once you get the starter turning over. I think you solved your own problem by asking about the ground wire from the engine mount plate to the frame. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #28 Posted November 27 Will do that this afternoon! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #29 Posted November 27 Tony, what are you doing responding to posts during school hours? Get back in class and STUDY. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #30 Posted November 27 (edited) 6 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Tony, what are you doing responding to posts during school hours? Get back in class and STUDY. That was when I just got to school and teacher wasn’t here yet! lol and now I’m in a study hall but zero homework… You won’t hear from me the rest of the school day! I promise! Edited November 27 by TonyToro Jr. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #31 Posted November 27 Added ground wire on the shaker plate, replaced starter solenoid. Now when we run a jumper from battery to start solenoid the solenoid jsut clicks. But nothing with the key switch, Help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #32 Posted November 27 If a jumper as shown in blue just makes the solenoid click you may have a bad solenoid. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #33 Posted November 27 Doing more testing. When I turn the key to start position not getting any voltage out of it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #34 Posted November 27 Tried a different (good) ignition switch and still nothing. No voltage coming out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #35 Posted November 27 23 hours ago, TonyToro Jr. said: . Hooked up amp meter and now getting power (12.66) volts to the ignition switch. Now getting 12.64 volts out of the ignition switch going to I guess some sort of rectifier. And if a wiggle the wires a bit the solenoid starts buzzing. Yesterday you had voltage to and from the ignition switch and now you don't, is that what is going on? Is the switch you are using a 103990 ignition switch? Not all Wheel Horse ignition switches are the same. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #36 Posted November 27 17 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Yesterday you had voltage to and from the ignition switch and now you don't, is that what is going on? Is the switch you are using a 103990 ignition switch? Not all Wheel Horse ignition switches are the same. Yup that’s what’s going on! I think it is. The ignition switch worked on the donor tractor when I cracked it over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #37 Posted November 28 1 hour ago, TonyToro Jr. said: worked on the donor tractor Does the donor tractor have a battery ignition or magneto? Use a meter to check your switch against the diagram of the switch on the left on the post I sent earlier. With the key in the start position the B, I, S, and R terminals should all show continuity to each other. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #38 Posted November 28 2 hours ago, 953 nut said: Does the donor tractor have a battery ignition or magneto? Use a meter to check your switch against the diagram of the switch on the left on the post I sent earlier. With the key in the start position the B, I, S, and R terminals should all show continuity to each other. Donor tractor is the same model. And all the wiring from the donor was with the engine. I’ll check continuity tomorrow. Thanks for your help! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #39 Posted November 28 Just tested ignition switch @953 nut everything you said passed inspection. Next? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #40 Posted Friday at 12:14 AM On 11/27/2024 at 4:01 PM, 953 nut said: If a jumper as shown in blue just makes the solenoid click you may have a bad solenoid. Did you do this test to see if the solenoid works. 6 hours ago, TonyToro Jr. said: Just tested ignition switch @953 nut everything you said passed inspection. Next? Are you sure the terminal connectors in the plug for the ignition switch are good. Can't see why you wouldn't be getting voltage out of the switch if it tests good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #41 Posted Friday at 12:16 AM Just now, 953 nut said: Did you do this test to see if the solenoid works. Are you sure the terminal connectors in the plug for the ignition switch are good. Can't see why you wouldn't be getting voltage out of the switch if it tests good. I tested the solenoid and yes it works, i could’ve been doing something wrong with the ignition switch, will try again tommorow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #42 Posted Friday at 01:23 AM 21 minutes ago, TonyToro Jr. said: I tested the solenoid and yes it works, i could’ve been doing something wrong with the ignition switch, will try again tommorow. We aren't going to let this thing kick our buts, we will get it to work if it kills us. Using the volt meter lets follow the wiring from the battery to the solenoid and everything in between. The drawings below are in two parts so they can be seen better. Start the test with the key in the off position. You may hear the kill relay click when the key is turned to the run or start position, this is normal 1 starting at the battery cable to the solenoid from the battery check for 12 volts. 2 on the + side of the amp meter check for 12 volts. 3 on the - side of the amp meter check for 12 volts 4 on the incoming end of the fuse holder check for 12 volts. 5 on the outlet end of the fuse holder check for 12 volts. 6 On the B terminal of the ignition switch check for 12 volts. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and pull the spark plug wires off for safety. 7 Turn the key to the start position and hold it there, check for voltage on the S terminal. 8 With the key in the start position and the PTO OFF check for 12 volts on the end of the PTO switch that comes from the ignition switch. 9 With the key in the start position and the PTO OFF check for 12 volts on the end of the PTO switch that leaves the PTO switch going to the clutch switch. 10 With the key in the start position and the PTO OFF check for 12 volts at the clutch switch on the wire from the PTO switch. 11 With the key in the start position and the PTO OFF and the clutch pushed down, check for 12 volts at the clutch switch on the wire that leaver the clutch switch going to the solenoid. small terminal. 12 With the key in the start position and the PTO OFF and the clutch pushed down, check for 12 volts at the small terminal of the solenoid. This should close3 the solenoid and turn over the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #43 Posted Friday at 01:57 AM Wow! Too late now but will get onto it tommorow. I really appreciate the help! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #44 Posted Monday at 09:03 PM Sorry all. To many things happened over the weekend but back at it. I have everything good 1-3. But #4 I have no voltage going to the fuse holder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,475 #45 Posted Monday at 09:38 PM Never mind. Was doing something wrong now I have voltage going through and from fuse holder. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
