rmaynard 15,506 #51 Posted Saturday at 02:41 PM (edited) I am 74 and have driven vehicles with a clutch all my life. However, there are those who have only driven automatics. Many of them have a difficult time getting the feel of "clutching". It's not a matter of just taking you foot off the pedal and expecting the tractor to start to move smoothly. Feathering the clutch is a learned technique. Having said that, clean pulleys and a proper belt, along with proper adjustments, make all the difference in the world. Edited Saturday at 10:58 PM by rmaynard spelling 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,756 #52 Posted Sunday at 01:38 AM @Alrashid2 One more thought! You could move your storage box to the front for some weight, That will also keep the rear free for your fire wood trailer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
My_horse 3 #53 Posted Sunday at 01:49 AM I had the exact same thing when I got my 314-8, although I never put in 3rd and let clutch out at full throttle. I usually engage 3rd at low rpm, then run the throttle up. I did end up getting a set of front wheel weights back when I first started mowing with it. Definitely helped keep the nose down if I popped the clutch too hard. then my gas damper failed and the I had to pull up on the clutch to get it to go. Fixed that with the factory clutch return spring that mine didn’t have. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #54 Posted Monday at 06:16 PM (edited) Thanks all for weighing in your valuable opinions/advice! I don't have a stick car anymore, but drove stickshift for years and years. I guess what I find hard about "feathering" the clutch on this damn tractor is the fact that, when the pedal is at the point between being disengaged and engaging, the pedal is nearly vertical. That's a hard angle my foot to even be at. I'm used to in a car, where the clutch would engage with the pedal at something like 45 degrees, not 0 degrees. Makes it so my foot has to be floating when using the clutch pedal, as I can't pivot my ankle that steep of an angle! I have adjusted the clutch pedal as far as I can to lessen that angel but still it's just too much. I did buy a new belt today. Won't have time until next week to swap but will report back then! Edited Monday at 06:17 PM by Alrashid2 Photo 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,200 #55 Posted Monday at 06:54 PM 36 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said: I have adjusted the clutch pedal as far as I can to lessen that angel but still it's just too much. Might help to move the seat back a couple inches. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #56 Posted Monday at 08:09 PM Fingers crossed it works out. Probably won't be able to do the install until late next week... I am still a bit confused on why the side panel (belt guard) is necessary though? I ran mine just fine without it for a few minutes when I was testing things out, before I realized it was more than just a cover. Shifted and ran fine without it. What does the panel do exactly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,200 #57 Posted Monday at 08:27 PM 7 minutes ago, Alrashid2 said: What does the panel do exactly? The bottom lip on the guard supports the loose belt and helps to prevent the belt from sagging and making contact with the engine drive pulley, In an effort to stop belt movement, Wheel Horse also added belt keepers around the engine pulley. If your tractor has a belt brake tab as shown in my video, the belt is stopped without the belt guard in place. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #58 Posted Monday at 08:30 PM thanks for explaining Ed. I think I do have that belt brake tab,yes 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
