First Restoration

[Easton Rich 334]

I decided that since I was putting all of my restoration info under wh tractors I might get called out. So this is the restoration of my 1976 B-80 8-Speed

[Easton Rich 334]

I also have a question, why is my rear end leaking out of the top left bolt hole where it mounts to the frame? I split them and it’s leaking like a siv

[oliver2-44 9,874]

We love restorations, no matter where you post them.  

The transmissions 4 frame mounting holes are drilled and tapped all the way into the case.

So gear oil can easily pour out of them once removed.

Screw a bolt back into the holes to reduce leaking.  If you plan to drain it, now is a good time.    

[kpinnc 12,570]

2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

The transmissions 4 frame mounting holes are drilled and tapped all the way into the case.

Yep. Gear drives are drilled all the way through. Hydros are not, at least not into the sump. 

Edited November 22 by kpinnc

[ri702bill 8,513]

So, a B80 8-speed?? Nice!! Sounds like the dis-assembly has begun already. A couple of pointers - 

 

Pictures... take lots of pictures from different angles as you go. Particularly of the "little" stuff. Wire routing, linkage for carb, etc. The stuff that drives you crazy at re-assembly.

Organization - bag & tag fasteners as you go. You will need a clean area at least 4x the footprint of the tractor for work & storage.

Remove the engine and Unidrive (they can stay intact, for now)

Bare frame - DO inspect the "F" plate on the frame mounts the Unidrive for cracks around the 4 bolt holes. If it is damaged, NOW is the time to fix it.

Inspect anything that moves for wear. Front axle joints, clutch & brake linkages, upper & lower steering. Decide to repair or replace accordingly.

"Do it once, do it right"

 

Bill

[953 nut 55,858]

10 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

why is my rear end leaking

Oh, the opportunities to make an off color remark on that quote are endless.            

When you put the tractor back together use a dab of blue loctite thread locker on the bolts.

[Easton Rich 334]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Oh, the opportunities to make an off color remark on that quote are endless.            

When you put the tractor back together use a dab of blue loctite thread locker on the bolts.

I didn’t even see this

[rjg854 11,497]

[ri702bill 8,513]

4 hours ago, rjg854 said:

Yep....

[Easton Rich 334]

I will get some when I make more progress tomorrow 

[Easton Rich 334]

[Easton Rich 334]

Putting the tins away for the winter after I prime them due to me not having a temp controlled paint booth

[Easton Rich 334]

During the winter I will plan to flush the transmission and clean the motor up

[Easton Rich 334]

Has anyone seen or own a C series snow cab in eastern Kansas or Western Missouri? If so I’d be glad to pay a fair price for it.

[rjg854 11,497]

@Easton Rich  you should place an ad in the Wanted's of the Classifieds section.

[Easton Rich 334]

Ok, thank you 

[Easton Rich 334]

Any thread I could read on how I could hook up a led light bar instead of headlights? Anything appreciated 

[ebinmaine 68,455]

40 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

Any thread I could read on how I could hook up a led light bar instead of headlights? Anything appreciated 

 

We use a few LED lights. 

I wire them directly to the battery instead of through the original circuits. 

[Easton Rich 334]

Do you wire in a toggle switch or are you saying they are constantly on?

[Handy Don 12,472]

31 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

Do you wire in a toggle switch or are you saying they are constantly on?

For 312 and 518++ we simply replaced the headlights with LEDs and branched the same switched circuit (comes off the A terminal at the ignition switch) to a rear-facing work light. bar that has its own switch (headlights must be on for work light to get juice).

@ebinmaine’s direct-to-battery setup lessens the chance that he'd see flicker in the illumination. LEDs react much, much more quickly to power fluctuation than those “heated wire” incandescent lamps. Tractors with without voltage regulators (i.e. plain diodes) are more susceptible to this. It shouldn’t be an issue with the higher AC output and voltage regulators on the 10hp and up recent tractors (C’s and the 00’s).

Note that LEDs are polarized, unlike incandescents. The battery source must go to the “+” terminal and the “-“ to ground. Backwards? No light at all! 

[ebinmaine 68,455]

7 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

Do you wire in a toggle switch or are you saying they are constantly on?

 

We do wire in a switch.  

 

@Handy Don Excellent explanation! 

[Easton Rich 334]

That makes much more sense. Mine never had headlights or taillights but there is wiring ran for the taillights. Would a 7in bar be good?

[ebinmaine 68,455]

3 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

Would a 7in bar be good?

Likely. Yes. But like many things nowadays the quality of LED lights VARIES WIDELY.

 

On the back of my plow tractor I have a NOS 6 lamp LED that was a $70 light in the old days. It's extremely bright.

 

On the front I have some interesting little flat fillers in the original headlamp case along with a couple of I think four and LEDs at the sides.

 

Vision isn't an issue.

 

 

 

[Easton Rich 334]

Dang you’re lighting up the world

[ebinmaine 68,455]

12 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

Dang you’re lighting up the world

 

 

Here's the beast...