Grooming young fruit trees

[Beap52 839]

I mentioned in another post that I planted some fruit trees a week ago.  I now have three sour cherry trees and two peach  trees.  I know it's recommended that these trees are pruned and shaped at an early age to increase fruit size and make the trees a manageable size in the future. 

 

After watching videos and reading various pages of instructions as well as visiting my local extension office (of which contains only a secretary because the extension agent has retired) and receiving some papers that explain the process used to shape the trees the following is what I've gleaned from my studies:

 

The goal is to have a bowl shaped tree. Early spring February or March after hard freezing but before buds start getting to big is the time to have the main trunk (aka central leader) removed.  How this bowl shape is achieved is locating 4 scaffold branches (or buds that will become the scaffold branches) about 24" to 36" above the ground and remove the central leader.   All suckers and unwanted branches below the scaffold branches are to be removed.  So basically I'll have a trunk with 4 scaffold branches.  I assume this is year one pruning of the tree.

 

I guess year two and following will begin forming the scaffold branches.  Some branches that see to grow straight up (know as water sprouts) are to be removed.  Somehow in the process certain branches will be allowed to grow while others removed.  

 

Does this make sense and am I thinking the right way?  If I understand correctly, I'll have until early spring before I begin chopping on my  trees.

 

Below is one of the peach trees that I'll be snipping away at come spring.

[Ed Kennell 38,411]

18 hours ago, Beap52 said:

   Some branches that see to grow straight up (know as water sprouts) are to be removed.  Somehow in the process certain branches will be allowed to grow while others removed.

I am by no means an expert fruit tree trimmer, but I have planted dwarf apple, pear, and plum trees that are about 10 years old.

If you have ever seen the results of the professional fruit tree trimmers in the orchards that surround the Big Wheel Horse Show in Pa.,  you would be shocked to see how ugly and distressed the trees  appear to be.  The branches are all twisted and drooping toward the ground.   This is done purposely to keep the trees spreading and the fruit closer to the ground for picking.

You are correct, you need to remove all the vertical suckers and any branches that are crossing another.    The  interior of the tree must be kept open to allow the sun and air to enter.

As you state, it is best to establish 4 or 5 horizontal branches as opposed to a vertical trunk.  

You can encourage the new growth to grow horizontally or even down by trimming the branch close to a bud that is on the bottom of the branch.

 

 

 

I find the pears are the easiest to force the horizontal growth and the plums the most difficult.  Sorry, no experience with peaches. 

  I assume you have studied the pollination requirements of the trees varieties you have planted.

                                                             Good Luck

 

 

[Beap52 839]

Thanks Ed,   I agree with you in how trees in orchards are pitiful looking.  I read some more this afternoon that a pamphlet suggested pruning when planted, and pruning before flowers break in the spring and possibly some pruning in late summer after fruit is harvested and finally  attending to the trees each following year.  I don't think I'll prune the three I just planted until next spring.  I'm getting a better vision of the steps needed.  I appreciate  your photos and the picture with hand shears is a good reminder of how to trim branches.  This is all new to me.   I've got a couple of cherry trees but haven't been attending to them as I probably should.

 

Thanks for the heads up of pollination.  I am suppose to  be covered in that arena.

 

I'll soon be 72 an d hope that I get at least some fruit from these trees before the next phase of life.