Alrashid2 171 #1 Posted November 13 (edited) Hey guys. Wanted to start a fresh topic to pick your brains here. I've got a 312-8 with the Kohler K series K301 engine. I find both the WH manual and Kohler manual to be very vague about start up and warm up procedure. Likewise, I'm getting different opinions from people on the forum, or I'm just not understanding correctly, so thought I'd lay it all out here. What do you feel is the proper start up and warm up procedure for our engines? I assume it wouldn't be too different for a Magnum engine either. From the manual, I see it essentially says the following: Move throttle 1/2 up and close choke When engine starts, open choke What confuses me here is the manuals make no mention of what to do next. My questions: Do I leave it at 1/2 throttle to warm up? How long do I warm up before going to work? How long does it take to warm up to operating temperature in the winter versus summer? What is the function of Idle throttle position? From the manual, it sounds like the only time to actually have throttle at Idle speed is just before shutting the engine down The manual states not to run in Idle otherwise as it doesn't allow for proper cooling and flow I assume this means I shouldn't run it at Idle when I'm "idling"? Many here on the forum have said when idling for a few minutes, throttle should be at 1/2 What do you all think? Edited November 13 by Alrashid2 edited title Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,619 #2 Posted November 13 I have a K-241. 10 hp. Only time i set throttle to idle is when i'm shutting it down... Remaining times full throttle. Winter use i let it warm up a minute or two then start plowing... 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,034 #3 Posted November 13 Summertime, usually mowing,I'll start it at 1/2 throttle & full choke, back off to 1/2 choke when it fires, drop the deck, go to full throttle and start mowing. I'll open the choke after maybe 30 seconds. In cooler weather, say under 50 degrees, I'll let it warm up at 1/2 throttle a minute or two before going to work. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,771 #4 Posted November 13 This is all common sence with an air cooled engine. You're not just warming the engine block, you are warming up the oil...and possibly the gas through the carb. The oil viscosity has a lot to do with how long to warm up. The manual will tell you to run these engines with 30 wt in the summer and 10w-30 in winter (if you are in a cold climate). I run 30wt all year because my tractors are garage kept and I always warm them up before plowing snow. I don't think I have ever had to move snow when the temp is below 15 degrees. Most of the plowing of snow happens in the high teens and 20's. When I start the engine, it's 1/2 throttle and choked enough to start it. I then keep adjusting the choke to keep it running smooth untill it is finally opened all the way. Remember, you are not just warming up the engine, you are also churning the gear oil (90 wt) in the transmission. That oil can get real thick in 10 degree and below weather. I have actually had the engine stall in winter because of a very cold tranns. I guess the idea is, take your time, warm it up good and then enjoy the ride. BTW, I think I saw a beverage holder on your horse...a hot totie would warm up the operator also. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #5 Posted November 13 Thank you all for the advice and giving your experience! Definitely helps me. I know some of this might be common sense to you guys, but to me it was a bit unintuitive compared to what I'm used to with modern engines (example: idling in a car is OK while idling with a Kohler is a no go!) @stevasaurus Thanks for the pics buddy! You look like youre having fun. Is that a 42" plow? I'll be buying a 42" from @davem1111 hopefully soon! I'm hoping to run 30W oil all year as well. My tractor isn't garage kept, but I'll be sure to let her warm up nice and good before going to work. I'll rarely use this for snow plowing and more for refilling firewood from the house. I usually choose the nicest day of the week to do that anyhow, so doubt I'd be running much below 25F if at all. Great point about the gear oil! I hadn't even put together that the transaxle gears are moving around in there even when sitting still... And I think you are thinking of another tractor with the cupholder - but now I want to see that too! You now have me thinking of buying a magnetic cup holder and putting one on mine... Which now makes me think of another question I wanted to ask on here, though unrelated to this conversation: I'd like to put some sort of satchel or pouch on the back of my seat/tractor somehow... any ideas? Just to get the tractor out and moving, I have been using it to take rifles and ammo down and back from my little shooting range. It'd be nice to have a little something to throw some bullets and mags in! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,071 #6 Posted November 13 Engine operator manual may help 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,771 #7 Posted November 13 Yes...42" blade. You have that nice receiver on that horse now, why not fabricate a device to come off that with the basket or what ever you need to haul the ammo and such ?? Might be able to even buy something that fits the receiver you can use. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #8 Posted November 13 @stevasaurus, you're one smart dinosaur I have a rather large hitch basket but I'll try to see if I can find a small one for that! Great idea! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,619 #9 Posted November 13 Milk crate bolted to a harbor freight winch plate that goes into 2" hitch... i use it for weight but you can use it for whatever... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #10 Posted November 13 My lord @SylvanLakeWH that is exactly what I was envisioning! Totally looking into that now... maybe I can make a little wooden box or something out of scrap. Thank you for sharing! This place ROCKS 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #11 Posted November 13 Regarding carrying stuff with the tractor - I got these tool holders at Tractor Supply a while back and mounted them on the fender. They're great for carrying an axe, shovel. loppers, even a weed whacker as you can see here. Could probably carry a rifle on there, or maybe even make an "A" frame sticking up that you could put several pairs of these on, or a truck gun rack. Ammo box would be easy. The limit is how far your imagination can go.... 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,221 #12 Posted November 14 Im in Florida so usually never below 25⁰ long, i use 10w40 year round, once an engine catches, choke off, half throttle until i get where I need to be then wide open. I like to remind people about air cooled generators, they start cold, full throttle instantly and run full throttle for days if needed...never seem to mind one but 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #13 Posted November 14 13 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: Im in Florida so usually never below 25⁰ long, i use 10w40 year round, once an engine catches, choke off, half throttle until i get where I need to be then wide open. I like to remind people about air cooled generators, they start cold, full throttle instantly and run full throttle for days if needed...never seem to mind one but Yup very good point, didn't think about that... and the generator is under load too! 3 hours ago, davem1111 said: Regarding carrying stuff with the tractor - I got these tool holders at Tractor Supply a while back and mounted them on the fender. They're great for carrying an axe, shovel. loppers, even a weed whacker as you can see here. Could probably carry a rifle on there, or maybe even make an "A" frame sticking up that you could put several pairs of these on, or a truck gun rack. Ammo box would be easy. The limit is how far your imagination can go.... Oh now THAT is cool, Dave! I love that idea. I'll look into those too 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,115 #14 Posted November 14 I know generators and some other things are fixed throttle but I still cringe when I hear a cold engine start up and immediately go full throttle. I use straight 30w all year in my K-Series and Magnum, 10w30 in the pressurized Command. My garage seldom gets below freezing. I'll run at low rpm for a few minutes then at whatever the job dictates. Full throttle for PTO driven attachments with some exceptions. My sickle bar mower is one of those. I've never worried about running a splash engine at low throttle. There's still plenty of air movement and do the math on how many times that little dipper slings oil around per second. No problem. Here's what I do for cargo and addition weight. Both go into Lowells receivers. The box on the 76 is mounted on a ATV winch mount and fairly light. The box on the 05 was never intended for this use but converted later. It has a 2" solid bar and is heavy making it harder to mount/dismount but can hold pretty much unlimited weight. 1 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg Cullison 40 #15 Posted November 15 On 11/13/2024 at 1:23 PM, stevasaurus said: This is all common sence with an air cooled engine. You're not just warming the engine block, you are warming up the oil...and possibly the gas through the carb. The oil viscosity has a lot to do with how long to warm up. The manual will tell you to run these engines with 30 wt in the summer and 10w-30 in winter (if you are in a cold climate). I run 30wt all year because my tractors are garage kept and I always warm them up before plowing snow. I don't think I have ever had to move snow when the temp is below 15 degrees. Most of the plowing of snow happens in the high teens and 20's. When I start the engine, it's 1/2 throttle and choked enough to start it. I then keep adjusting the choke to keep it running smooth untill it is finally opened all the way. Remember, you are not just warming up the engine, you are also churning the gear oil (90 wt) in the transmission. That oil can get real thick in 10 degree and below weather. I have actually had the engine stall in winter because of a very cold tranns. I guess the idea is, take your time, warm it up good and then enjoy the ride. BTW, I think I saw a beverage holder on your horse...a hot totie would warm up the operator also. I agree with this (see bottom) and plan to do the same but whenever I look at the chart from the manual, I start to second guess...??? Does anyone have other thoughts? Straight 30 vs 10W40 vs 5W20?? I am in Southern PA near the Maryland line and the tractor is garage kept. The weather/temperature has been a little unpredictable the last several years which makes following the manufacturers recommendations difficult.. I do plan to use the WH 312-8 to plow snow if we get any.... ("The oil viscosity has a lot to do with how long to warm up. The manual will tell you to run these engines with 30 wt in the summer and 10w-30 in winter (if you are in a cold climate). I run 30wt all year because my tractors are garage kept and I always warm them up before plowing snow. I don't think I have ever had to move snow when the temp is below 15 degrees. Most of the plowing of snow happens in the high teens and 20's.") 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #16 Posted November 15 @Greg Cullison I'm with you, was confused at first too. What bothered me so far is running with 10w30 in the hot summer seemed problematic. Burning oil and I noticed more leaks from old gaskets, which has happened to me with older cars and using lighter oils in the past. Seems many are using 30W all year and are fine. I'm not far from you - Bucks County PA - but my tractor will be in an unheated shed. Planning on just warming her up longer. But we'll see! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #17 Posted November 17 Wanted to share, working on a nice cargo box that can hold firearms and chainsaws and the like! Unfortunately my bucket of spare nuts and bolts didn't have the right length I needed, so this project is on hold until morning. TBD! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alrashid2 171 #18 Posted November 17 (edited) Found some bolts in an old drawer. Cargo bin is done! Edited November 17 by Alrashid2 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
