EZ-Go Golf Cart Starting Problem

[oliver2-44 10,144]

I bought a 2009 EZGO Golf Cart Model RXV FLI Gas about a year ago.  

It progressively has had more and more of a starting problem

It utilizes a starter/generator, but no label on it.

It starts sometimes, and other times the starter moves a 1/8 or 1/4 turn and stops. 

I've observed it is always stopping when its up against what I think is the compression stroke.

The engine runs great, and is a:

ENGINE	Kawasaki
MODEL CODE	FJ400D-S03-R
SERIAL	FJ 400D4?754

I can roll the engine backwards so it has a head start and it will make it over the compression hump and keep rolling to start every time.

If it stops away from the compression stroke it will start every time since it has some room to get up to speed and go over the hump.

from what I've read this engine does not have any type of compression release .

I've had the 1 yr old battery load tested and it is very good. I've also cleaned all the 12v wiring connections and coated them with dielectric grease - No improvement.

I Ohmed all the cable going from terminal to lug to cable and they checked good.

I haven't found a wiring diagram for this exact model.

The starting circuit from the foot pedal to the solenoid always works, ie step on the gas pedal with the key on and it cranks or tries to crank.

The cable from the battery to solenoid Ohmed good, but I could see corrosion inside the plastic covering so I replaced it.  

When charged the battery reads 12.5-12.8V.  

When I start it battery voltage drops to 11.5V. 

But if it is at the top of the compression stroke and stops like going to a locked rotor it drops to 9v.

I've also took jumper cable from my trucks bigger batter and connected directly to the starter.  No improvement   

I've been on 2 Cart Forums and their certainly not as helpful as Red Square people (Thank You)

One thing I've picked up from the forums is I've seen a bunch of post with this or similar problem on this age/model cart.

Never any successful repair posted and no one seems to have picked up or mentioned it stopping at what I thing is the top of the compression stroke.

 

Since this is a 15 year old cart it seems possible that its just a worn started and needs to go to an electric motor shop for testing/repair.

Since I see a lot of post about this I also wonder if this starter was a little on the weak side to start with.

I've removed some rubber covers over 2 of the 4 starter/generator brushed and they have some length sticking out the back side of the brush holder, so brushes seem OK.

I can see a tiny glimpse of the commutator and it seems smooth and copper shiny.

When I ohm from the starter 12v input terminal to the case I get wonky readings, sometimes open as I would think, and sometimes even 12v.

But I don't know how the vreg and starter/generator switch over works, so I don't really know what I'm reading.

 

I've talked to 2 golf cart repair shops and they say bring it in, no free technical advice. 

It sure seems like the starter is getting weak, but is there really a way to test it?

Or do I bite the bullet and take the starter to the electric motor shop to be tested and rebuilt. +/-$150, new starter is $350.

I don't want to just throw parts $$ at it but I'm stuck. 

If I take it to a golf cart shop I hear you don't get out of their for less that $500.  Ouch!

 

I'll post some pictures tomorrow. 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,195]

If the starter has bushings on each end they can often be improved by replacing them. They will wear oval which increases turning resistance.

[953 nut 57,034]

I would agree that the starter/generator is in need of some attention. Those things get a workout having to start the engine every time you stop for a moment.

You are a good mechanic, pull it off, remove one end at a time to inspect the bearings or bushings and you can probably measure them and find replacement parts at McMaster.  https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rotary-bearings/

The worst that can happen is you end up bringing it to the electric motor shop already disassembled.

[WHX?? 50,087]

You know the rules Ollie...

particularly the SG

 

Bad windings or dirty/worn brushes? Maybe just a good cleaning? A dead spot in the armature?

953 wouldn't start unless I roll it past a dead spot.  K181 has  bad SG and after $$$ in a auto electric shop same thing. Plug out of the hole spins fine but not under compression. 

 

Check the electricals feeding it? 

[oliver2-44 10,144]

Here’s some pictures. 
I thing I’m going to go pull the starter and check it out better

 

 

 

[WHX?? 50,087]

Ahh ok I see Ollie. 

Used on later stationary stuff, soft start gennys and of course golf carts.

Real common on carts that are step on pedal and go.

The one and only time I golfed they had them. Now golf is a stupid game but I had to see how that cart started so quick and quiet and had to look. The course maintenance guy busted me looking under the seats. I told him I had just have mechanical interests. He asked me if I wanted a job... 

Should be parts available no problem. Do believe I ran across replacenents while researching the sixties styles

[WHX?? 50,087]

Club Car Jim? 

[oliver2-44 10,144]

After going through all the electrical, no change

I finally figured out the erratic starting .

If the engine was near the top of the compression stroke, the starter couldn’t get it over the hump. If it was just past the compression stroke it had a little room toget up to speed and would start.  
So I pulled the starter and took it to the local electric motor shop. He had an identical one on the counter from the EZGO dealer to repair

$175 later it starts great. He replaced the start field coil, bearings, etc. He said the original coil was weak due to the insulation breaking down, but not bad enough to go to ground. 
 

 

[squonk 42,056]

Electric shop probably has a Megger or a resistance/insulation tester. This puts a load on the windings that an ohmmeter can't and doesn't do. Happens a lot with the big industrial equipment. I wanted to condemn a $10,000 AC compressor. Unit got hit by lightning.  Boss wanted to be sure so we spent the $500 for Trane to come in with their equipment and checked the windings. Sure enough they were smoked even thought an ohmmeter showed no problems

[Handy Don 13,143]

On 3/3/2025 at 11:17 PM, oliver2-44 said:

He said the original coil was weak due to the insulation breaking down, but not bad enough to go to ground. 

 

On 3/4/2025 at 4:31 PM, squonk said:

Sure enough they were smoked even thought an ohmmeter showed no problems

 

These examples seem counterintuitive until you consider the very, very small difference in measurable resistance between fully insulated and partially shorted, but NOT grounded windings.In my experimental youth I once believed that if the motor in my toy car ran well with two “C” batteries in series (3 volts) it’d be really fast with a couple of 9v batteries instead. The smell of burning lacquered windings still reminds me of the ruined car.

[squonk 42,056]

44 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

 

 

These examples seem counterintuitive until you consider the very, very small difference in measurable resistance between fully insulated and partially shorted, but NOT grounded windings.In my experimental youth I once believed that if the motor in my toy car ran well with two “C” batteries in series (3 volts) it’d be really fast with a couple of 9v batteries instead. The smell of burning lacquered windings still reminds me of the ruined car.

When I got my hands on one of those little electric motors that came in toy cars after the car was broken, I would put that motor in a freezer for a few weeks. Then hook it up to one of those 6 volt lantern batteries and watch it start up real slow and then warm up and start to steam as the moisture inside started to evaporate.